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ATF Toyota Type-IV or Dexron in 1992 ES300?

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Old 01-17-14, 02:47 AM
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gtstcactus
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Going to do a drain and fill on my transmission....

So I should be using a Dexron II / III ATF fluid for 92 ES300/Windom??

How much fluid should I expect to drain & replace by just removing the transmission plug?

Is the only way to fill the trans via the dipstick tube?
Old 01-17-14, 05:44 AM
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Originally Posted by gtstcactus
Going to do a drain and fill on my transmission....

So I should be using a Dexron II / III ATF fluid for 92 ES300/Windom??

How much fluid should I expect to drain & replace by just removing the transmission plug?

Is the only way to fill the trans via the dipstick tube?
Check your owner's manual about fluid type.
I think around 3-4 quartz.
Only way is to fill via the dipstick.
Old 01-17-14, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by gtstcactus
So I should be using a Dexron II / III ATF fluid for 92 ES300/Windom??
Yes
How much fluid should I expect to drain & replace by just removing the transmission plug?
About 2.5 liters.
Is the only way to fill the trans via the dipstick tube?
Yes. Don't forget to drain and fill the differential! (0.8 liters) You will get more fluid out this way, contaminants like to pool at the bottom of the differential. The differential drain plug is magnetic clean the metal off.
Old 02-27-14, 08:28 PM
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Is the differential plug near the transmission plug? Are there any other plugs one could confuse it for and end up draining the wrong stuff? I know which plugs are for the oil & A/T, just unsure of the dif..

Does the dif need a hex socket or just a regular socket or what to open it? Do you fill the dif thru the trans dipstick when you fill the a/t?
Old 02-28-14, 09:45 AM
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This is on an older version of the transmission but it's the same as your car. The drain plug is a hex fitting, the fill plug a bolt.
Old 02-28-14, 10:34 AM
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Anyone know what size hex fitting the dif drain plug is? I've only got 5mm & 10mm hex sockets (for sway bay end links & A/T drain plug). I don't like using allen keys on this car as many of the bolts and fasteners are a little rusted, worn or just plain difficult to remove and allen keys aren't my favourite tool after my experience with the sway bay end link I replaced when doing one of the rear struts!

Can the diff be filled via the trans dip stick hole or only via it's own fill hole?

The fill hole looks like a bit of a pain to fill, but perhaps it'll appear easier when I get under the car for a look..

Last edited by gtstcactus; 02-28-14 at 04:53 PM.
Old 02-28-14, 05:12 PM
  #22  
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Rusted, seized, & stuck bolts seem to be the a constant problem for me.....

I went and jacked the car up before and went to undo the plug / bolt on the transmission and it won't budge...... I purchased a brand new 10mm hex socket for the job and all that was achieved was the bolt/plug being rounded out in the centre...

So I'm not really sure there is much else I can do other than drop the pan.... I guess it could be a bit messy, more so than just undoing the plug/bolt...

I guess I'll try and get a replacement plug/bolt... I might have more luck getting it off with the pan dropped as I'll be able to spray some CRC Penetr8 on the threads..

So questions.... Will I get much more liquid out by dropping the pan? Will 4 litres be enough to refill it with after dropping the pan?

Can I reuse the gasket currently on the pan? I'll be repeating the procedure a couple/few times in the coming weeks so I will replace it, I just really want to get some fresh fluid in there this weekend and I might not be able to get another gasket until Monday, so I can put new gasket on for the 2nd refill........ Or is reusing it going to cause a major leak or some sort drama???

I checked the dipstick this morning, there is not even a hint of red in the fluid, more like browny/black fluid.... So that can't be good... The A/T is doing ok, not really any major issues with it so the current fluid must be doing something but clearly needs replacing given the colour...

I sometimes detect this burnt smell but haven't confirmed the source yet... I wonder if perhaps it's a whiff of burnt ATF...???
Old 02-28-14, 06:29 PM
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You really should wait until you get replacement gasket before taking down the transmission pan. Get a replacement bolt as well.

No one can tell you for sure if your old gasket will leak or not, so why take a chance? A few more days, will not make any difference at a all.

Phil
Old 02-28-14, 06:38 PM
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If the gasket is original, can't reuse it. Get a transmission filter kit which comes with the gasket, neoprene type. There must have been rust in the hex fitting and your tool didn't fit all the way in, otherwise there is no way it will round off.
Old 02-28-14, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Lexus2000
If the gasket is original, can't reuse it. Get a transmission filter kit which comes with the gasket, neoprene type. There must have been rust in the hex fitting and your tool didn't fit all the way in, otherwise there is no way it will round off.
Is the transmission filter kit strictly a Toyota product (as in something I'll only find at the dealer), or is it a general or after-market product I should be able to get at the auto parts store? I'm hoping I can get it from the auto parts store as they are open on Sunday, parts counter at the Toyota/Lexus dealer is only open on weekdays.......

The hex fitting was full of dirt, so before attempting anything I sprayed it with some CRC and cleaned it all out, then put the socket back in, it was all the way in, the metal of the plug just gave way and it rounded off... I was actually quite shocked as the fit was perfect, the tool was a good distance into the fitting etc.. The metal of the bolt seemed kind of soft, it really must be firmly stuck. Actually I almost can't believe that happened......

If I can't get the bolt out, I might end up having to get a new pan for the A/T...

Is the gasket in the filter kit, one of those "gasket in a tube" types, or is it a pre-made one?
Old 02-28-14, 09:06 PM
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Most auto parts stores sell the filter kit it looks like this:
ATF Toyota Type-IV or Dexron in 1992 ES300?-hxe3bbm.jpg

Getting a replacement pan is a good idea if you can't find a way to remove the plug. You could try pulling the pan and drilling a hole in the plug, the heat from the bit should free it up. Or you could torch it but not sure the pan could take that kind of heat it is pretty thin.

Here's what a typical pan looks like on a somewhat neglected transmission. This one is working perfectly after being serviced, I cleaned the magnets and also the pan with dish soap and hot water.
ATF Toyota Type-IV or Dexron in 1992 ES300?-cpsdgzf.jpg

Last edited by LeX2K; 02-28-14 at 09:12 PM.
Old 03-01-14, 03:06 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Lexus2000
Getting a replacement pan is a good idea if you can't find a way to remove the plug. You could try pulling the pan and drilling a hole in the plug, the heat from the bit should free it up. Or you could torch it but not sure the pan could take that kind of heat it is pretty thin.
Here's what a typical pan looks like on a somewhat neglected transmission. This one is working perfectly after being serviced, I cleaned the magnets and also the pan with dish soap and hot water.
So the filter just sits in the pan??? Seems weird, like I don't really see how it does anything much, but who am I to question the engineers who designed the thing!

That fluid looks pretty good compared to what I'm seeing on the dipstick....

I'll have to take a photo when I drop the pan to show how bad the fluid is...

I might go up to pick a part tomorrow and grab a pan off one of the Windom/ES300s up there....

They don't list a price for a tranny pan on their website tho, I wonder if there BS we don't sell parts off parts line will come out??? I'd have thought someone buying an A/T might be able to use their old pan anyway.. I hate to think what Toyota charges for a pan!
Old 03-01-14, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by gtstcactus
So the filter just sits in the pan???
HAHA no, it's bolted to the valve body very simple to remove.
Old 03-09-14, 01:54 AM
  #29  
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Ok I ended up hammering a T55 Torx socket into the hex of the plug it slipped straight in but I hammered it so it cut into the metal a bit, got it off this time....

The fluid I drained out looked like real dirty dark used engine oil, no resemblance to AT fluid at all, not the slightest hint of red to it! Infact I actually wondered if someone had filled the trans with engine oil! So I drained around 3 litres of fluid and replaced it with some Dex III.... What a difference just 3 litres has made! Now that it's had a chance to circulate the trans is shifting so much smoother it's quite remarkable! I know there's still about 66% old fluid left so I'll be repeating the procedure again in a week or 2. I'd like to get the fluid in the trans at least looking red!

I didn't drop the pan, but I've already got a replacement gasket & filter so I'll drop the pan, clean it & the magnets, replace the filter & gasket on the 2nd or 3rd go.

I did notice some metal shavings in the tub I drained the fluid into....... Not sure if I should be worried about that or not... I thought to myself that it looked like a lot of shavings, but it's not like there was piles but I'm not really what constitutes "lots" lol... In the tub there would have been less than 1/20th of a teaspoon of shavings, probably less it was really just tiny specs in the fluid too fine to feel in my fingers... Infact the amount was probably almost insignificant...

Anyway shifting is much smoother, less clunky now.... Replaced the plug with a nice new one from Toyota... Very quick & easy job really...

I haven't found the diff plug or fill hole yet, but I didn't look very hard as I had to finish up quickly as I got a call from g/f to pick her up from work earlier than I was expecting...

Last edited by gtstcactus; 03-09-14 at 03:04 AM.
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