Hayk

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, looks like one of these.





If you're short on time and experience, I would only do the front one - since you know it's really bad. Doing the rear valve cover is very labor intensive, but will still have to be done eventually.

MrShim78

Thanks a ton Guys (both Mr Booby and Gs4fiend...).
yes the front valve cover is also sweating a bit, so it is time to change it i guess.
where exactly does teh spark plug seal go?? does it go inside the well/tube?

also, now that the seal is broken, there is nothing stopping the oil for wetting that plug up... but can i drive it around for another week or two, (say 50-100km not more) ?
would i burn oil or anything? i hope not..i hope it doesnt seem through the plug into the area where the piston head is.. (

MrShim78

i wish thats what it was EEngineer but its not ..is it !! craaap

EEngineer

then it's the spark plug tube grommets like people suggested above, but usually when it breaks, it ends up inside the crankcase and it rarely breaks like that...hmmm

MrShim78

I know ., its really weird... crank case?! well its good it came out then! but... the thing is if this is a grommet then where does it go exactly..ie where do i need to replace this.. and if i am running without this seal what would happen when i drive...

first time this has ever happened to me..that too during a simple spark plug swap out

Hayk

iTrader: (1)

These seals dry out and crack over time. What might have happened is that your spark plug socket went deeper than expected and grabbed the edge of the seal. So when you were turning the spark plug, the seal broke.

What you will need to do is remove the upper radiator hose, disconnect and remove your spark plug ignition coils, and move any other wires/hoses out of the way in order to access the valve cover bolts.

You will need a new valve cover gasket along with the spark plug tube seals. You can reuse the bolts/washers, but replacing them is highly recommended. The valve cover is also strategically sealed in a few locations with RTV, so get a tube of that if you don't have it. The locations are pretty obvious upon the removal of the cover.

The trickiest part of this job is replacing the spark plug seals. They have a very tight fit, so you will probably end up tearing up the old ones with a screw driver and a pair of pliers. There are two metal tabs that stick out in order to hold the seals in place - those will need to be bent to push the new seals in. The best way to put the new ones in, is to get a socket the size of the seal, heat up the well with a hair dryer and chill the rubber seals in your freezer. I also sprayed some white lithium grease in the wells to make it even smoother. Lastly, don't forget to put a block of wood under the seal that you're working on, so that you don't bend the valve cover.

MrShim78

Thanks alot...this feedback is awesome! do i need a torque wrench or air tools...? the valve cover looks pretty solid but i dont want to tighten it too much or damage it...

Hayk

iTrader: (1)

You don't need a torque wrench, it's actually recommended that you go by feel when tightening the valve cover bolts. They can snap if overtightened, that's why I suggest you get new bolts so that the washers are fresh and uncompressed. You only need a torque wrench for tightening the Intake Plenum bolts, but that's only if you do the rear valve cover.

There is one special tool that's needed for the front valve cover, it's an E6 Torx socket. You need it to remove the wires at the top of the cover. They are star shaped bolt studs.

MrShim78

Hi guys,

so i finally changed the rear 3 spark plugs! what a PITA!!!! but they came out clean and went in clean with no issues (once they went in!). with the right tools (extensions, magnetic retriever) the job is just time and not that bad. I would not ever again user a rubberized/cheap spark plug socket though. a regular deep socket and a magnet works best... thanks again for all the help guys.. at some point i will get under the valve cover and resolve the seal issue. for now that well is dry as a bone after a week so i am gonna just watch it for now...but will get around to it later in the summer. right now its time to enjoy the smooth acceleration

Mxkmster

That super sucks that is for sure the spark plug oil seals. They are a ***** to cut out and a ***** to press in.

MrShim78

so its been a few days and i checked the spark plug well and it was dry...(So far!)

Mxkmster, do you have have an exact part # ? by any chance please?

so , as i am a novice at this, is the spark plug oil seal and spark plug tube grommet the same thing? (doesnt sound like it....)

Hayk

iTrader: (1)

The Lexus part number is 11193-70010. (MSRP $3.84 each). I recommend using the Sewell Parts website for diagrams and part numbers. You can find any diagram for this vehicle under the ES300 Replacement Parts section.

http://lexus.sewellparts.com/