marknauth

I own a 2000 Lexus ES300 with VVT engine. I had a small oil leak coming from the camshaft seal. I removed the valve cover, camshafts lobes and camshaft, replaced the seal and replaces the cams in the same way I found them, lobes are also correct. The car start and runs, no more leak BUT now it is much louder than it normally sounds, it sounds like a knocking coming from the front head, the opposite end that I replaced the seal. What went wrong???? Please help!

pauloil

did you mark the cams. how did you set the VVT before and after doing the seal?

marknauth

I open the valve cover in what ever position the VVT was at the time. I marked the camshafts position with a white maker and replace it in the same way after replacing the seal. After the loud noise coming from the head, I once again opened the valve cover to verify all the caps we in tight and the timing was correct and it was. The dots on the camshafts aligned as well as the sprockets and crankshaft.

asianrob

iTrader: (1)

The spliter gear on the cam shaft needs to be tensioned its the gear on the shaft that looks like its cut in half one side is stationary the otherside moves need to rotate it back cause it takes up the lash between the gears

mathewd23

Guys, I believe i have a cam seal leak, but i am not sure, the oil leaks after the engine starts warmng up and it leaks just below the motor bracket in the front and very close to behind the alternator bracket. How can i find out if it is the seals.

The recent work i did on this car was replace the VCG, spark plugs, oil pressure switch and oil pickup strainer. which stopped oil leaking from the front VCG.

canucklehe

what year / model? I know the oil filter mounting bracket is a common failure/leaker on my 92-96 es300 gens, and probably other V6s. not too bad to do, but you have to loosen/remove y-pipe to get at the 3 bolts. not a bad idea to look at lower motor mount at the same time. it was worn out on both my 93s.

mathewd23

It is a 2000 Lexus Rx300 AWD

Mattrob

Hi jack the thread?

latintxn54

HELP! In the process of pressing in the rear Cam Seal, the camshaft turned forward almost a 1/4 turn. Is it OK to turn the camshaft counter clock wise to get it realigned to the rear marker?
Also, after purchasing a generic Crank & Cam Seal extract & install kit to press in the Cam Seals, the seals did not press in evenly. Do the Seals need to be "flush" with the engine or should they protrude slightly.
I had no problems removing & replacing the Crankshaft Seal but the Cam Seals will not insert completely. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Arsenii

Hello,

Did you clean the mounting spot for the seal before installing it?
Did you get OEM seals from the dealership or aftermarket ones?

Seals should not require that much effort to install, I usually just find something similar in size and seat the seal in light and even taps all around the edge until it is completely flush with the engine block, it doesn't require any special tools.

Seals have a metal frame on the inside, if it went in too crooked, said frame likely got twisted out of shape in the process, so that it is now more oval than round. If so, all you can do is throw it out and use a different one, there is no way to straighten it back out.

As for the camshaft, leave it where it landed for now, you will need to deal with it after you put the cam pulley back on, so that you have the mark to align with the timing cover. Good thing it is not an interference engine, otherwise it could've been a lot more dire.

Hope this helps and best of luck!

LeX2K

The old seal is exactly the right size to press in the new one, also put the cam gear on backwards and use the bolt to press in the seal. I have a fancy seal puller never use it, angle adapter on a Dremel I drill a small hole then thread in a screw. Nail puller (side cutters will work) levered against the housing and the seal comes right out.

Crank seal goes in easy, put the old seal against the new one and tap tap a few times with a plastic hammer.

latintxn54

Thanks for the reply. As explained earlier, I attempted to install 2 new after-market seals but even with a generic Seal Install kit the seals would not press in flush.
I then removed these seals, went to a local parts store and purchased 2 more new after-market seals. I cleaned the cams where the seals sit, then covered seals and cam area with petro jelly and then pushed in evenly. These went in alot easier BUT I still had to use the Install kit to insure the seals were FLUSH w the engine. Also, I learned this is non-interference engine and it's OK to turn the engine back to the alignment mark. Installed the belt, completed the job. Wah-Lah! Engine turned over without issue.