tomjensen

A while back, more than two months, I had several questions concerning a transmission swapout I was doing. That was insane. I scrubbed everything with a toothbrush and mineral spirits.The engine, the engine compartment, the wheel wells, the brakes and steering assembly. I replaced the valve cover gaskets, oil pan gasket, rear oil seal, new plugs, front and rear brakes. etc. The only thing I wish I had done was replace the thermostat which was a no-brainer and the o-ring behind the oil filter mount. The engine is back in and it looks awesome. I am waiting for a transaxle return. I was sent a transaxle that was disassembled and missing a bearing. I have yet to test it out yet but I am itching to go.

So, now for the questions. The fan setting is always on high. Occasionally, after it has been running for a while, It will operate normally. Has anyone ever experienced this and is there an easy solution?

Also, there is an are of my speedometer where the lights go out. I whacked the dash with my hand and it came back on. It's happened a few times but I would like a longer term solution than whacking the dash. Any suggestions? Thanks.

tomjensen

My assistant.

3000

There is a DIY for replacing dead lights in the cluster... just somewhere in this site, maybe you could search for "DIY speedometer needle lights" or something like that.

tomjensen

Thanks, I found it. Intense operation. I will have to read through that. I found a cluster assembly at the junkyard for $30. The problem with that is obvious since this problem seems to be very common. I have been to Pick-n-Pull three times this last week trying to finish this project. Every part I needed had the same problem as I did. I needed a Vacuum Shutoff Valve or a Vapor Shutoff Valve that mounts above the left injector bank. It was brittle and broke. I needed a hose that goes from the valve cover to the air intake and it was cracked. I did happen to find and the oil level gauge that mounts to the oil pan. I need a clamp that hold the exhaust shroud or insulator to the catalytic converter. I guess I have to break down and go to the dealer for those parts. I can find the VSV online for $50 instead of the dealers $86.

tomjensen

Still looking for some input on the A/C staying on high no matter where the fan switch is set. I have the dash apart and want to fix this before I put it together. I took my console apart when I poked a hole in my large strawberry lemonade from Sonic. What a sticky mess that was. Got most of it out or at least what I could see.

tomjensen

I misspoke, the blower stays on low as a turn it up until it gets to HIGH then it blows high. So it is low every setting but high. I went to the junkyard and picked up a A/C-Heater cluster panel or assembly. Maybe it is in the switch itself.

tomjensen

It was the Blower Motor Resistor as far as I can tell. That is all I need to be done with this project. Here is a list of what I did. New (used) transmission, new drive axles, new hood lifts, new rear engine crank seal & housing gasket, new valve cover gaskets, new valve cover washers, new spark plug tube gaskets, new oil pan seal, new tranny front seal, new front brakes, new spark plugs, flushed brake fluid, new tranny fluid, new differential fluid,new power steering fluid, new oil & filter, new exhaust gaskets, new pc valve & grommet, new air inlet hose, new air filter, new water inlet o-ring, flushed and rebuild radiator and housing, used oil level gauge, used electric antennae, used exhaust oxygen sensor, replaced all burnt out lights throughout the car, used Vacuum Switch Valve, used fuel dampener, completely detailed engine compartment, engine & front wheel wells, no dirt or grease on anything. That took work. I love how this engine is put together with the basic sockets, wrenches and screwdrivers. I needed very few specialty tools to fix this. The car runs and sounds great. And the best part; not one leak. I just need a blower motor resistor and I'm done.