I have a 2007 Lexus es 350 that is over heating.
11-28-18, 03:15 PM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: VA
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have a 2007 Lexus es 350 that is over heating.
Vehicle starts to overheat about 10-15 min of driving. No signs of leak externally, thermostat is good, water pump has metal impeller and is not locked up. I've taken it off to verify even. I've bled the system and as I do the coolant keeps building in the funnel and will overflow. As the vehicle runs it has air bubbles come up every 2-3 min even if it's just a few. did this for 20-30 min so it should be free of any air pockets. instead of the coolant going down in the funnel as the car runs and bubbles come out it just slowly fills the funnel with hot coolant. Thoughts?
11-28-18, 03:52 PM
#3
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: VA
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
after you remove it you can boil a pot of water placing the thermostat in and it will open. plus we replaced it just to be sure and have the same problem.
11-28-18, 04:03 PM
#4
Lexus Champion
11-28-18, 04:16 PM
#6
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: VA
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Trending Topics
12-03-18, 06:01 AM
#10
Ok so thermostat tested good.... water boils at 211°f, stock t-stat is 180° So as long as it opens before the water boils all is well.
-Pressure is good
-Water pump is good
-radiator and heater core don’t leak
-fans come on
How about a blockage from coolant gelling? Toyota red is different from other stuff and mixing can make a gel that clogs stuff
if we were talking about an old simple system like a
Carbureted non-computer car that only needs 12 volts and gas to run, (1965 Chevy sedan for example) we have eliminated everything in the cooling system it self, so we would next look at the engine and ignition.
-Timing that’s too advanced would make more heat and overheat the car slowly (as well as cause other problems). This would throw a light in the Lexus and there are many ones reasons that’s probably not it.
-A head gasket issue would do this but be obvious by oil:coolant contamination or coolant being burned and becoming low.
-The water pump we already covered. It turns free, sure the belt is moving it, though?
That only leaves something electronic/computer OR something missed in the original testing.
Can you verify that the radiator itself and the hoses get hot? This would prove that coolant is indeed flowing from the engine to the radiator and back
I am assuming you don’t have a check engine light on...
-Pressure is good
-Water pump is good
-radiator and heater core don’t leak
-fans come on
How about a blockage from coolant gelling? Toyota red is different from other stuff and mixing can make a gel that clogs stuff
if we were talking about an old simple system like a
Carbureted non-computer car that only needs 12 volts and gas to run, (1965 Chevy sedan for example) we have eliminated everything in the cooling system it self, so we would next look at the engine and ignition.
-Timing that’s too advanced would make more heat and overheat the car slowly (as well as cause other problems). This would throw a light in the Lexus and there are many ones reasons that’s probably not it.
-A head gasket issue would do this but be obvious by oil:coolant contamination or coolant being burned and becoming low.
-The water pump we already covered. It turns free, sure the belt is moving it, though?
That only leaves something electronic/computer OR something missed in the original testing.
Can you verify that the radiator itself and the hoses get hot? This would prove that coolant is indeed flowing from the engine to the radiator and back
I am assuming you don’t have a check engine light on...
12-03-18, 12:15 PM
#11
Intermediate
OK, after much reading on this subject...
Replace thermostat with only an OEM product
Make sure thermostat is installed with jiggle valve positioned within 15 degrees of “up” position
This allows for air bubbles to exit system
Boiling water test only proves thermostat opens at “some temperature”
Replace radiator cap with OEM product because cap is not tested with water pressure test
Park car facing uphill and start with heater on high and radiator cap off
Start car and let it run until it reaches normal running temperature
Watch for bubbles and keep filling at same time
When satisfied bubbles are gone, check water level in overflow tank, install new OEM radiator cap and test drive
My two cents
Good luck
Replace thermostat with only an OEM product
Make sure thermostat is installed with jiggle valve positioned within 15 degrees of “up” position
This allows for air bubbles to exit system
Boiling water test only proves thermostat opens at “some temperature”
Replace radiator cap with OEM product because cap is not tested with water pressure test
Park car facing uphill and start with heater on high and radiator cap off
Start car and let it run until it reaches normal running temperature
Watch for bubbles and keep filling at same time
When satisfied bubbles are gone, check water level in overflow tank, install new OEM radiator cap and test drive
My two cents
Good luck
12-05-18, 03:58 PM
#12
Intermediate
Vehicle starts to overheat about 10-15 min of driving. No signs of leak externally, thermostat is good, water pump has metal impeller and is not locked up. I've taken it off to verify even. I've bled the system and as I do the coolant keeps building in the funnel and will overflow. As the vehicle runs it has air bubbles come up every 2-3 min even if it's just a few. did this for 20-30 min so it should be free of any air pockets. instead of the coolant going down in the funnel as the car runs and bubbles come out it just slowly fills the funnel with hot coolant. Thoughts?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
GKenns
ES - 1st to 4th Gen (1990-2006)
9
08-26-08 11:55 AM