Thanks for the responses & the detailed maintenance information. So should I be looking out for oil services in the service records? yea 9k is a little too much for a 12 year old car based on the opinions I have gotten on the forum. I am still on the lookout, preferably a 2000/2001 ES300 since I really like the look of that car. Hopefully someone wants to sell their ES300 on the forum . But I am still going to venture out on the 1999 ES300, to see how much I can get it for. Is it advisable to buy any of the 2000/2001 models with over 100K miles on it?
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I tend to agree with those who say don't worrying about anything under 250K on an ES300, I bought mine with 345K and I am up to 363K now in less than 8 months, all I have had to replace was my alternator and a water filled turnsignal. The things that make the difference are Tires, Oil Changes and other routine maintanence. This is by far the most reliable car I have owned.
That said It has a few querks such as a few of the dash lights have burned out and I just haven't gotten around to taking the dash apart to replace the entire lot of them. I keep thinking I will buy an updated Speed/Tach/Etc and just replace the whole thing as a package deal... I just can't decide yet. If the belt gets wet it squeals until the dirty residue is cleaned of or worn off. I occasionally have the Trac Control drop offline on me, it is due to an emissions related module that has an intermittant glitch. I am just not willing to pay the $1000 to have it replaced right now given that all I have to do is turn off the car and turn it back on to have the glitch reset and vanish for a few hundred miles. I would doubt an 85k ES300 would have that problem.
I paid too much for mine which was a 1999 ES300 for $3500. I haggled the gal down from $5000, I could have haggled more. I think I could have gotten it for $2500, I am just too much of a softey and fell for the we are selling this to replace our furnace line, which given that it was January and very cold... And I could tell see they did have some issues in that arena I had a bit more compassion on their needs than was strickly nessicery. If you pay more than $5000 you are paying too much for a 1999.
What else can you get for 9k with under 90k miles on it?? Nada...unless you are into dodge, chrysler, or a camry with a 4cyl and cloth interior with a quarter of a million miles on it.
Seriously though, punch it into KBB or NADA and see what the current value is for private party. That is your only real way to guage it. Plus there IS a used car shortage right now, and that is a great engine with low mileage. It's a high demand model for a certain group of buyers.
I studied their movement by tracking them on Autotrader and cars.com. They all move pretty quick.
What has been done (maintenance wise), tires, and condition are big factors at play there.
I personally don't give a flip about KBB or NADA. Do a search in your area and that will give you the going rate for what you want. I paid $7000 for my 2000 ES300 with 130k. It's clean and I'd pay it again, it's an excellent car. When buying a used car, high mileage doesn't concern me much when it comes to Honda/Acura, Toyota/Lexus, and BMW as long as they are given reasonable care and maintenance.
Exactly. In my experience the KBB/NADA prices are in line with actual selling prices.
It's a good idea to decide what you want. Set alerts for that criteria in autotrader.com. Each time one pops up (within say 300 miles of you), save it. See how long it takes to disappear, watch how many times (if at all) the seller drops the price.
You have to let a few get away before you strike is the only bad thing. Another one always pops up though. Being patient, thorough and HYPER analytical always pays off. I usually lose at least 5 pounds obsessing over every detail before a big purchase
Then follow up with the seller, when they tell you it's sold, ask them for how much (if they don't mind) because you are in the market. This has worked several times for me.
At the end of the day, just like a house, a car is worth whatever someone is willing to pay for it today. If you are happy with what you got for what you paid, then it's a win (within reason that is).
Just hit 175,000. Shocks went at 120,000. Control Arms (really the bushings) at 140,000. Upper mounts at 150,000. Axles replaced at 170,000. Change the oil every 5000 with ams oil or mobil 1 synthetic. I use Zmax now too. Throttle controller, o2 sensor and cat #1 were replaced between 140,000 - 160,000. transmission oil change every 40,000. Maintenance for me is less than $2000 per year. This is still probably a high end figure but I need my car to be optimum everytime I use it. I run my car HARD!!! Mind you I'm lowered and have roll bars so I feel as wear and tear goes those are really good mileage points to have to change things at.
As far as price. I paid $15,700 back in 2004 for this car with 56,000 miles. Pretty good price considering that the more maintenance requiring is300 at the time was $23,000 for a 2001 used. In 2011, I think you can find (in excellent condition of course) 97-99 for $4-6k, a 00-01 for max $8500 (this was for a 01 with only 40,000 miles).
I gave you the critical info so for the love of GOD get paperwork before you buy!!! I have a binder organized of all my records. Make sure the guy comes somewhat close to that.
PS. engine wise pay attention to faulty head gaskets seals. you will know by the white smoke coming from the engine bay and or exhaust pipe. This was a common problem that lexus did not acknowledge until they were sued in the mid 2000s.
I have a 1999 ES300. The transmission is not original. I can not find the transmission pan gasket or filter that matches.
At the auto parts store we checked 1995 to 2005 in both the ES300 and the 6 cylinder Camry.
Please tell me if you know what transmission I have or how I can tell.
I am attaching pictures. It has 18 bolts.
Any help would be greatly appreciated as I have it up on ramps and drained.
ok, by not original you mean a different transmission from the one the car came with but the same model transmission because unless the car is modified it's hard to think what you mean.
if you mean an entirely different transmission then you need to provide a model number for that transmission.
The filter and gasket specific to that transmission all link to the model number.
There might not be a gasket for that pan, it might be sealed with 'sealer', failing that you might have to make a gasket by tracing the outline of the pan onto a sheet on gasket (you can by it by the metre), and cutting it out.