Running RICH! Raw fuel coming out, Black Smoke/Fuel Vapor.
01-23-11, 07:24 PM
#1
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Running RICH! Raw fuel coming out, Black Smoke/Fuel Vapor.
Hello CL,
I have seen a few threads about this issue, but haven't really seen a fix.
I have 1993 OBD1 Lexus ES300, that will not really stay running at an idle. I will stay running if you give it gas, but it is running HORRIBLE. It is dumping fuel. Saw another thread about 150 miles to the tank. It was running like this before I took it to my mechanic buddy (who is not really a buddy after this).
My mechanic buddy, basically gave up on the car. He took it to a Toyota dealer mechanic, and they pulled some codes, and came up with the idea it needed wires and plugs, since the after market wires would not have the right resistance. FAIL.
I don't understand how a mechanic can make a cummings turbo diesel dip into high 11 seconds in the 1/4 mile, but can't figure out how to fix my Lexus.
They give up unless it is OBDII, and really dont have the Love for the Car. Anyway I'm venting.
The codes were the following:
Engine:
12 RPM Signal
22 Coolant temp
25 Air Fuel Ration Lean
52 Knock Sensor Left Bank
55 Knock Sensor Right Bank
Trans.
62
63
64
What has been tried.
1. Coolant temp sensor
2. A used ECM (that was not the right matching numbers- FAIL)
3. plugs, wires
4. A distributor with a new cap and rotor
5. Mass Air Flow Sensor.
All of which had no difference. It has a misfire that is for sure.
So basically, I picked up the car from the mechanic who really did not have time for it etc.
So three weeks later at the mechanics, I'm back to square one with a car that runs WORSE then when it went there.
My plan is to put a used ECM in it and try it one that matches the OEM number.
Next is to look at a the Fuel Rail and maybe a harness?
I started building this car from a wreck and it has been a good car for about three years now, but if I can't fix it I'm going to have to send it to the junk yard I saved it from a few years back.
http://picasaweb.google.com/dicespic...eforeAndAfter#
Anyone had any success?, this has a to be a common problem since I see so many people talking about the same issue while googling..
After many thread searches not really seeing a solution.
Please Help if you can,
dicespice
I have seen a few threads about this issue, but haven't really seen a fix.
I have 1993 OBD1 Lexus ES300, that will not really stay running at an idle. I will stay running if you give it gas, but it is running HORRIBLE. It is dumping fuel. Saw another thread about 150 miles to the tank. It was running like this before I took it to my mechanic buddy (who is not really a buddy after this).
My mechanic buddy, basically gave up on the car. He took it to a Toyota dealer mechanic, and they pulled some codes, and came up with the idea it needed wires and plugs, since the after market wires would not have the right resistance. FAIL.
I don't understand how a mechanic can make a cummings turbo diesel dip into high 11 seconds in the 1/4 mile, but can't figure out how to fix my Lexus.
They give up unless it is OBDII, and really dont have the Love for the Car. Anyway I'm venting.
The codes were the following:
Engine:
12 RPM Signal
22 Coolant temp
25 Air Fuel Ration Lean
52 Knock Sensor Left Bank
55 Knock Sensor Right Bank
Trans.
62
63
64
What has been tried.
1. Coolant temp sensor
2. A used ECM (that was not the right matching numbers- FAIL)
3. plugs, wires
4. A distributor with a new cap and rotor
5. Mass Air Flow Sensor.
All of which had no difference. It has a misfire that is for sure.
So basically, I picked up the car from the mechanic who really did not have time for it etc.
So three weeks later at the mechanics, I'm back to square one with a car that runs WORSE then when it went there.
My plan is to put a used ECM in it and try it one that matches the OEM number.
Next is to look at a the Fuel Rail and maybe a harness?
I started building this car from a wreck and it has been a good car for about three years now, but if I can't fix it I'm going to have to send it to the junk yard I saved it from a few years back.
http://picasaweb.google.com/dicespic...eforeAndAfter#
Anyone had any success?, this has a to be a common problem since I see so many people talking about the same issue while googling..
After many thread searches not really seeing a solution.
Please Help if you can,
dicespice
01-24-11, 12:34 AM
#3
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use an ECM with the exact same number and i bet it works, heres my post to another similar thread.
mine went bad about a year ago. 93 ES. the problem started about 5 yrs ago though with the transmission not down shifting from 2nd to 1st by itself. to drive, i had to manually shift her down to 1st at each stop light/sign, then manually up shift 2nd and drive as i sped up. everyone that i knew of mechanic wise said that was a common symptom of a bad throttle position sensor and that i needed to change that. second opinions were that it could be the valve body in the trans went out. no check engine light or anything so i didnt check codes. first i changed the tps, that didnt work, then i changed it again since the first one i bought used from fleabay. still didnt auto shift. well, i figured the worse and though the valve body went out so i kept shifting manually.
last year or so, i was driving across town and sitting in heavy traffic, all of a sudden she started spitting and sputtering like crazy and smoking like a mosquito truck. i had no acceleration and pedal to the floor was barley revving to 1000 rpm. she died several times before i pushed her to the gas station nearby. towed her to my shop and this time got codes. i found a service manual and it walked me through testing the tps, along with several other sensors and finally the ECM itself. all indications were ECM, so back to fleabay for a $35 used one and she was back running like new, transmission shifting automatically and no spitting/sputtering or smoking.
(cliffs notes: manually shifted and threw parts at her for 4yrs, turned out to be $35 ECM that took 15 minutes to change. get a service manual.)
last year or so, i was driving across town and sitting in heavy traffic, all of a sudden she started spitting and sputtering like crazy and smoking like a mosquito truck. i had no acceleration and pedal to the floor was barley revving to 1000 rpm. she died several times before i pushed her to the gas station nearby. towed her to my shop and this time got codes. i found a service manual and it walked me through testing the tps, along with several other sensors and finally the ECM itself. all indications were ECM, so back to fleabay for a $35 used one and she was back running like new, transmission shifting automatically and no spitting/sputtering or smoking.
(cliffs notes: manually shifted and threw parts at her for 4yrs, turned out to be $35 ECM that took 15 minutes to change. get a service manual.)
01-24-11, 04:21 AM
#4
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You described exactly.
Nine3es,
I had the exact condition. I have been manually shifting for some time now, it will also not shift into second some times. Will not down shift automatically etc.
And like you say, one day all of sudden started running rich, and then got worse over time. I will find an ECM and put that in there and hope for the best. The one I have in there now (actually sitting on my desk in front of me) Has a rebuilt sticker on it already, but it had a year warranty.
I can't believe my mechanic buddy was like oh yeah we tried an ECM, and I asked him "Did the numbers match" and he lied and said yes. Then I asked him again and he said well it was from a Camry.
REALLY?
Will let you know what I come up with.
Thanks!
I had the exact condition. I have been manually shifting for some time now, it will also not shift into second some times. Will not down shift automatically etc.
And like you say, one day all of sudden started running rich, and then got worse over time. I will find an ECM and put that in there and hope for the best. The one I have in there now (actually sitting on my desk in front of me) Has a rebuilt sticker on it already, but it had a year warranty.
I can't believe my mechanic buddy was like oh yeah we tried an ECM, and I asked him "Did the numbers match" and he lied and said yes. Then I asked him again and he said well it was from a Camry.
REALLY?
Will let you know what I come up with.
Thanks!
01-30-11, 10:08 PM
#6
Lexus Champion
Trending Topics
02-17-11, 06:35 PM
#9
dont junk it
Hello CL,
I have seen a few threads about this issue, but haven't really seen a fix.
I have 1993 OBD1 Lexus ES300, that will not really stay running at an idle. I will stay running if you give it gas, but it is running HORRIBLE. It is dumping fuel. Saw another thread about 150 miles to the tank. It was running like this before I took it to my mechanic buddy (who is not really a buddy after this).
My mechanic buddy, basically gave up on the car. He took it to a Toyota dealer mechanic, and they pulled some codes, and came up with the idea it needed wires and plugs, since the after market wires would not have the right resistance. FAIL.
I don't understand how a mechanic can make a cummings turbo diesel dip into high 11 seconds in the 1/4 mile, but can't figure out how to fix my Lexus.
They give up unless it is OBDII, and really dont have the Love for the Car. Anyway I'm venting.
The codes were the following:
Engine:
12 RPM Signal
22 Coolant temp
25 Air Fuel Ration Lean
52 Knock Sensor Left Bank
55 Knock Sensor Right Bank
Trans.
62
63
64
What has been tried.
1. Coolant temp sensor
2. A used ECM (that was not the right matching numbers- FAIL)
3. plugs, wires
4. A distributor with a new cap and rotor
5. Mass Air Flow Sensor.
All of which had no difference. It has a misfire that is for sure.
So basically, I picked up the car from the mechanic who really did not have time for it etc.
So three weeks later at the mechanics, I'm back to square one with a car that runs WORSE then when it went there.
My plan is to put a used ECM in it and try it one that matches the OEM number.
Next is to look at a the Fuel Rail and maybe a harness?
I started building this car from a wreck and it has been a good car for about three years now, but if I can't fix it I'm going to have to send it to the junk yard I saved it from a few years back.
http://picasaweb.google.com/dicespic...eforeAndAfter#
Anyone had any success?, this has a to be a common problem since I see so many people talking about the same issue while googling..
After many thread searches not really seeing a solution.
Please Help if you can,
dicespice
I have seen a few threads about this issue, but haven't really seen a fix.
I have 1993 OBD1 Lexus ES300, that will not really stay running at an idle. I will stay running if you give it gas, but it is running HORRIBLE. It is dumping fuel. Saw another thread about 150 miles to the tank. It was running like this before I took it to my mechanic buddy (who is not really a buddy after this).
My mechanic buddy, basically gave up on the car. He took it to a Toyota dealer mechanic, and they pulled some codes, and came up with the idea it needed wires and plugs, since the after market wires would not have the right resistance. FAIL.
I don't understand how a mechanic can make a cummings turbo diesel dip into high 11 seconds in the 1/4 mile, but can't figure out how to fix my Lexus.
They give up unless it is OBDII, and really dont have the Love for the Car. Anyway I'm venting.
The codes were the following:
Engine:
12 RPM Signal
22 Coolant temp
25 Air Fuel Ration Lean
52 Knock Sensor Left Bank
55 Knock Sensor Right Bank
Trans.
62
63
64
What has been tried.
1. Coolant temp sensor
2. A used ECM (that was not the right matching numbers- FAIL)
3. plugs, wires
4. A distributor with a new cap and rotor
5. Mass Air Flow Sensor.
All of which had no difference. It has a misfire that is for sure.
So basically, I picked up the car from the mechanic who really did not have time for it etc.
So three weeks later at the mechanics, I'm back to square one with a car that runs WORSE then when it went there.
My plan is to put a used ECM in it and try it one that matches the OEM number.
Next is to look at a the Fuel Rail and maybe a harness?
I started building this car from a wreck and it has been a good car for about three years now, but if I can't fix it I'm going to have to send it to the junk yard I saved it from a few years back.
http://picasaweb.google.com/dicespic...eforeAndAfter#
Anyone had any success?, this has a to be a common problem since I see so many people talking about the same issue while googling..
After many thread searches not really seeing a solution.
Please Help if you can,
dicespice
02-20-11, 08:57 PM
#10
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: FL
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Ok, Finally Got an ECU and put it in today. WHAT A WORLD OF Difference!
Seems to have fixed the issue. I took the IAC off and cleaned it, did a TBI service, replaced some vacuum lines and then put the ECU in it today. It actually shifts correctly too. I still have a slight dead miss, which I'm thinking is related to the injectors.
The VSV valves, and the injector connectors were all damaged when I got the car back.
The missing may have to do with the injector harness now, I have the replacement nippendenso connectors, but need the rubber grommets that go inside and I can make some pigtails.
Also, think they had the injector wires crossed up, I uncrossed them after looking at the other connectors, little wire on the left on all of them in the back, I could listen to the injectors and hear them pulsing after that.
Thanks for the replies...
Seems to have fixed the issue. I took the IAC off and cleaned it, did a TBI service, replaced some vacuum lines and then put the ECU in it today. It actually shifts correctly too. I still have a slight dead miss, which I'm thinking is related to the injectors.
The VSV valves, and the injector connectors were all damaged when I got the car back.
The missing may have to do with the injector harness now, I have the replacement nippendenso connectors, but need the rubber grommets that go inside and I can make some pigtails.
Also, think they had the injector wires crossed up, I uncrossed them after looking at the other connectors, little wire on the left on all of them in the back, I could listen to the injectors and hear them pulsing after that.
Thanks for the replies...
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