Headlight dimming problem
#1
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Headlight dimming problem
Everytime I roll the back 2 windows up at the same time the lights dim kinda bad. Its the same for the front 2. If I do all 4 at the same time it seems about the same as if I was doing just 2. Also I noticed it when the windows were already rolled up although I dont think that should matter. Would an upgraded harness for headlights fix this? Like the tag says I have an Optima Yellow top with stock ground to frame and stock stereo system.
#3
Super Moderator
you notice how when you roll more than one window up at the same time that the motor sounds weaker than if you were to roll just one window up at a time? yeah? well thats normal for the most part. try parking your car and stepping on the brakes. do your headlights dim? if it is just a little bit, i think it's normal. happens to my car. new battery didnt help me with this problem. might be alternator.
#4
I don't even touch my rear windows, I'm afraid they'll break. I was told by my import mechanic there were some problems with the ESes and Camry's rear window panes falling into the door and shattering. That may not apply for the newer models you all are talking about though.
#5
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Slight dimming shouldnt be normal. I will call Lexus to see if I could borrow a new one to see if it does it. Thats a load of crap that its normal. If it is normal, I wanna fix it. Maybe unbolt all stock grounds and clean them incase they are dirty underneath? Beef up all grounds? Only reason why it would dim is if its not getting enough juice, or the juice isnt getting back to the battery. Although thats really vague. Im tired of people "making do" or "it will do for now". Ive seen stuff come in my stereo shop thats nothing short of a death trap. 2 gauge wires to a 1600w Orion 275G4. It was connected to a crappy non-audio friendly battery which doesnt sound too bad yet. But there was only a 4guage going to front stock battery. He only had a 1/2 Farad capacitor. I want to do it and never have to worry about it. Who the hell else would buy a $200 battery? What I want to know is if anyone knows how to really fix this problem. Some troubleshooting flow chart or anything. I dont think its my battery, I picked it up straight off the Optima's truck at work about a year ago. Never ran dead and if it did its deep cycle so that would be fine. 13.2 off, and 14.? at idle. I dunno....somebody get back at me plz.
#6
Lexus Champion
my lights do the same thing. ya know, i roll up all windows, the moonroof, radio on, both amps on, headlights on, winshield wipers, AC, man my car battery gets drained. lol. im cool though, doesnt happen too often. and i havent heard anything about the back windows falling in. both my ES never did that
#7
Super Moderator
Originally posted by EGainer
my lights do the same thing. ya know, i roll up all windows, the moonroof, radio on, both amps on, headlights on, winshield wipers, AC, man my car battery gets drained. lol. im cool though, doesnt happen too often. and i havent heard anything about the back windows falling in. both my ES never did that
my lights do the same thing. ya know, i roll up all windows, the moonroof, radio on, both amps on, headlights on, winshield wipers, AC, man my car battery gets drained. lol. im cool though, doesnt happen too often. and i havent heard anything about the back windows falling in. both my ES never did that
i've never heard ES windows falling in either. don't worry, even if the window does fall down, you could just flip the car upsidedown and shake it.
brand new cars don't dim like ours do because, well, cuz theyre new. i bet they do dim a little though, just not noticeably. the whole window motor is different too. new lexus windows roll up hella fast. i don't remember my windows rolling up that fast when they were new.
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#8
Lexus Champion
yeah sorry, left the seat part out, but i cant do that much with my hands. im not a magic guy. my windows roll up really really slow when all thats going on. oh, stepping on the brake, and having the defrosters on too. im have a 300W and 600W amp hooked to the battery, and my cd changer draining it too. it's crazy. where should i put another battery if i got one? oh, some guy i know, has a friend that is selling some 18" chrome with run flats, they are five lug and he wants to get rid of them, bc he has no car anymore. they are sitting in his basement. new tires too. no one wants to buy them though so he just finally said about $1000 for them. so i am going to have him email me the pics of them so i can photoshop them on my car and see how it would look. this would make my car slower then.
#9
Super Moderator
what car did those rims come off of? what's the offset? a lotta rims don't fit our cars especially if they got nice juicy fat lips because our front calipers protrude so darn much. darn front wheel drive!!! j/k i love my ES.
#10
I wouldn't be surprised if the window thing is true, even though I have never heard of it before. My ES had made a really loud rattling sound when you initially open one of the rear windows, the sound is the window glass rubbing against the rubber stripping around the window. It happens for less than a second, only when you initially start to lower them. I guess because the window is sealed so tightly. I've noticed this on other ES cars also. A lot of my back-seat passengers have been startled when they first opened a window back there.
#12
Super Moderator
Originally posted by EGainer
mine have never done that. what are teh specs i need for the wheels?
mine have never done that. what are teh specs i need for the wheels?
like suppose this wheel were an 18-inch wheel. even though 18 inch rims do fit an ES, you'd easily tell that because it's so damn deep you couldn't possibly just plop that onto our cars.
#14
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (17)
The offset will be critical. I've got 18x8's with 225/40 tires and a 40 offset. From what I can tell, there isn't much room for error in the rear, much farther out and they'd rub on the fender lip, much farther in and they'd hit the suspension.
Check and see if they're a front wheel drive, offset between 40 and 45 I believe. If they fit those criteria or real close, the best thing you could do is try them on your car and see if they fit before you commit to buy them. If he wants to sell them, he shouldn't have a problem with that.
My rear windows do the same thing with the noise, more so if they haven't been opened for a while. I don't worry about it. The main thing people have problems with is the switches being kinda backwards; they always push them the wrong way and think the windows don't work. Last weekend, this kid tried to pull the back window back up 'cause he thought something was wrong with it, I had to yell at him before he yanked it off the track or something.
As for the light dimming issue; I was talking to a guy a while ago who does high output alternators. I think he's basically a one man business, but he does alot of work for DBDrag competitors and other stereoheads like myself. He's overcome the frequent problem of HO alts not making good power at idle, and his alts are among the best from what I hear. He said he could do a 160 amp for my 92 ES the same size as stock casing that would use factory brackets for $230 plus shipping; and a 220 amp for $260 plus shipping, although the casing on the 220 would be larger than the stock alt and I'm not sure if it would fit.
I haven't talked to him for a month or two since I've been focusing on other areas of the car; but will probably be getting a 160 amp before too long and will talk to him about putting his name out here if other's are interested.
The alternator is the heart of the electrical system, if it's not making enough power, you'll get dimming and such when demand is high; IMO the alternator is the first thing that should be upgraded when you're adding electrics or having problems.
Check and see if they're a front wheel drive, offset between 40 and 45 I believe. If they fit those criteria or real close, the best thing you could do is try them on your car and see if they fit before you commit to buy them. If he wants to sell them, he shouldn't have a problem with that.
My rear windows do the same thing with the noise, more so if they haven't been opened for a while. I don't worry about it. The main thing people have problems with is the switches being kinda backwards; they always push them the wrong way and think the windows don't work. Last weekend, this kid tried to pull the back window back up 'cause he thought something was wrong with it, I had to yell at him before he yanked it off the track or something.
As for the light dimming issue; I was talking to a guy a while ago who does high output alternators. I think he's basically a one man business, but he does alot of work for DBDrag competitors and other stereoheads like myself. He's overcome the frequent problem of HO alts not making good power at idle, and his alts are among the best from what I hear. He said he could do a 160 amp for my 92 ES the same size as stock casing that would use factory brackets for $230 plus shipping; and a 220 amp for $260 plus shipping, although the casing on the 220 would be larger than the stock alt and I'm not sure if it would fit.
I haven't talked to him for a month or two since I've been focusing on other areas of the car; but will probably be getting a 160 amp before too long and will talk to him about putting his name out here if other's are interested.
The alternator is the heart of the electrical system, if it's not making enough power, you'll get dimming and such when demand is high; IMO the alternator is the first thing that should be upgraded when you're adding electrics or having problems.