RogerKlotz

I got a 2000 Lexus Es300 with the codes:
p1130
p1150
p1135
p1155

Did some research on every forum involving the 1mzfe and everyone seems to fix this problem by
replacing the A/F sensors.
So the Past week I bought some Air/Fuel Ratio Sensors both Denso OEM 89467-41030, and 89467-41040.
It rode good for about 30 minute until the CL lights came back on. Checked the codes, and came up:
p0125
p1130
p1150
p1133
p1153

Erased the codes and drove a couple more times to get Codes, and these
were the only ones that came up:

p1130
p1150
p1135
p1155

So anyone have any idea what's going on, and how I can fix this ?

Thanks.

RogerKlotz

Here's some cellphone pics of the car

exxonham

sure you replaced the right sensor, I just had that prob it was showing Bank 2 Sensor 1 so I replaced that sensor and tisted it first with ohm meter it was dead, then replaced and cleared codes did not come back up. But you change the right sensor

RogerKlotz

I'm pretty sure I did. I just took them out and replaced them with the same denso part #'s, and what should the ohm meter read for a working sensor?

exxonham

I believe read around 1 1.5 maybe I believe, but mine wasent reading anything, it was throwing the same codes yours was. But rescan and make sur it was bank 2 sensor 1, check that first and read the ohms in your sensors, search those codes other ppl have same prob and there a diagram for you about the ohms on there tell you everything I just cant find it

Steelfan

Had luck just this past weekend installing the Denso DEN 2349021 from NAPA on both Bank #1 and Bank #2. Toyota's OEM part number #####-41040 and #####-41030 only have different wire lengths, from what I can see. NAPA only stocked the one with the longer wire which was ok for my use. Just needed to zip tie the extra for Bank # 1 (firewall) so it won't contact the manifold if it is moved around.

I was receiving p1130, p1135, p1150 and p1155 with the occassional P0125 which is related to the other 4.

Bank #2 next to the radiator was easy and it came out with no problem after tapping on an adjustable wrench with a hammer to break it loose.

Bank #1, well, hope to heck yours isn't galled like mine was. I spent 3 hrs on top of my engine on Friday night working it out. I don't have all the proper tools, for one, and secondly, I couldn't get enough force on it from the side to back it out with the 22mm wrench I had. Had to work it out a fraction of a mm at a time over the course of three hours laying on top of the engine. I still have a goose egg above my eyebrow from whacking my forehead on the top of the firewall when it would let loose occassionally. Eventually got it out and all the threads were gone on the manifold as all the metal was embedded in the threads of the A/F sensor. Went to the autoparts store the next AM to get the right tap (only Carquest carried one out of all the diff. chains[Advance, AutoZone, NAPA, Auto Supermarket) and also bought the O2 sensor insert (bung) incase drastic measures had to be taken on the manifold.

Luckily my neighbor down the street was home who is a fleet mechanic for a local business and also works on race cars in his spare time. After surveying the situation, he said the two options at this point were to try and re-thread what was left in the hole and hope we can get enough for the new sensor to bite (had his doubts) or take off the manifold and drill out the old insert and weld on a new one. Decided to try option one first since failing it, would lead to option 2 anyways.

Of course, there wasn't enough room in back to use the tap properly and we were unsure if a spark plug tap was the right size, so we used the good threads on the old Bank #2 sensor to run new threads. We cut off the old wire and took 20 mins. but we took turns running it down until it was tight, turning on the car when we thought we had it to ensure there wasn't an exhaust leak. We slowly backed it out and only found small metal shavings on the threads which was a good sign. We oiled up the tap I had and worked it down to dress up the threads then installed the new sensor.

So far, I have over 250 miles on it w/o CEL's and no exhaust leaks.

Sorry for such a long description but if it can help someone out...

PS - I can see a $600+ dealer estimate to install the Bank #1 sensor if they expect to strip threads like I did when removing it. Very tight back there with lots of combustible hoses which would make using a torch to heat it up a little iffy. Too tight for the hands, I think, for running the engine to make it hot, too.

305lexus

clean es you have! btw were did you get your roof racks? ive been looking everywhere for bike racks from yakima but cant find for my 2es.

wonderb

I know this is probably one heck of a necro but I stumbled upon this thread while troubleshooting a very similar (if not exact same) problem.

Went through several pages with someone on the ETCG forums before finding the culprit: the AFR Heater fuse circuit was broken near the battery.

I'll spare you all the giant story but just in case someone happens upon this thread with the same problem that OP and I have had, maybe this will be of use:

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/...0?limitstart=0


Peace.