angmedic91

iTrader: (5)

How's everyone doing? I've got a question, does anyone know how much wattage the OEM amp puts out to rear 8" subwoofer. Reason being, is that I purchased an 8" subwoofer, dual voice coil from Crutchfield and wired the the sub in parallel to get it to 2 ohms, since the OEM sub was also 2 ohms. The problem I had was that the wattage of the sub, caused my OEM amp to cook and smoke and then blew the 20amp fuse in the engine bay. My amp is now fried, so I'm looking to replace it with another OEM amp, but would like to know what the wattage output is to the sub. Thanks..........

01LEXPL

iTrader: (10)

oh fawk ...

that sucks bro!

Keep us posted... and to think i was gonna get a free floating 8" sub to run on the stock amp!

Fawk that idea!

Pyroibw

you have a short somewhere, there is no way a sub can blow a amp. don't work like that.

you probably shorted the amp somehow. it has nothing to do with the sub.

angmedic91

iTrader: (5)

Update: My stock amp is fried. I called Crutchfield and they think the Polk Audio dual voice coil 8" sub wired in parallel to get it at 2 ohms caused the amp to overheat and cook, which then shorted out the 20amp fuse in the engine bay. The following link has picture and specs of the woofer I had bought http://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DB84...VC.html?tp=111
According to tech support the 2 ohm load and high wattage may have stressed the amp to much. As far as shortening the amp, well, the only wire I dealt with were the speaker wire for the subwoofer, one red and one black and connected those to the new sub. I don't know how that would short the amp. I found a DIY write up on a LS forum http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/audio/subwoofer.html , this guy basically was replacing the same type of stock sub I have, but his was Pioneer and mine is a Nakamichi. He put in an aftermarket 8 inch sub using the stock Lexus amp. In the write up he used a 4 ohm single voice coil Kicker sub rated between 30 - 100 watts, since the stock amp is only putting out 40 watts RMS. The sub I purchased was rated between 50 - 180 watts per voice coil and wired up for 2 ohms.
I'm now returning my Polk Audio to Crutchfield and got another subwoofer compatible to the Kicker sub in the write up. I got a JL Audio 4 ohm single voice coil sub rated between 35 - 100 watts RMS. http://outlet.crutchfield.com/p_1368...l?cc=02&tp=111

If anyone out there has specs on the Nakamichi amp for a 1998 Lexus ES300 would be greatly appreciated and where I can buy an OEM replacement amp.

angmedic91

iTrader: (5)

Another Update: Ok, well finally had time last evening to remove the OEM amp and inspect it. Upon removal, smelt burnt electrical wiring and saw some black ash on the top part of the amp. I removed the cover of the amp and noted that there was a burnt chip that faces the cooling coils of the amp. It appears the chip over heated and sort of expanded and popped, there is smoke scarring on the inside of the amp. I've posted some pics of the damage and an outside pic for those who dont know what the OEM amp looks like. Sorry for quality of the pics, took them on my iPhone. The specs on the amp are as follows: Max Power 33 x 4 for the door speakers and 60 x 1 for the rear sub woofer. Front and rear door speakers 4 ohm and S/W 2 ohms.

cmotek24

iTrader: (1)

is the stock amp 5-channel full range w/ the headunit handling the EQ and cutoffs? I'm wondering how it's setup so that I can buy a new 5-channel amp as well.

angmedic91

iTrader: (5)

I dont know how many channels it has per say, but on the sticker on my Nakamichi amp, it states, 33 x 4 and 60 x 1. These numbers are max output. The 33 x 4 is a 4 ohm connection and the 60 x 1 is a 2 ohm connection to the 8" sub in the rear deck. Thats all the info I have. Just realize the 3rd Gen ES also can come with a Pioneer system. The H/U and amp work together, with the speaker wires coming off the amp to the speakers.

Ariyanna

OK I found this amp USED on eBay and it has this price for three more days

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/97-99...fAudioQ5fVideo

I had the same thing happen to my 2000 ES and I had to replace the amp and heres a pic of the specs for our Nakamichi Amp

Rollin'ES3

That looks pretty good.

Nice find

angmedic91

iTrader: (5)

Cool, thank you Ariyanna for the link. I'm going to get it before their out. It's been a bummer not having any music. What and how did it happen to your amp? I just got my replacement subwoofer from Crutchfield and installed it, just now have to wait for the amp and hope I dont blow this amp. Im crossing my fingers. Btw, did you get your car fixed?

angmedic91

iTrader: (5)

FYI UPDATE: Ok, finally had a chance to getting around to installing the used OEM amp I got off ebay. A big thanks to Ariyanna, for finding an OEM amp on ebay. I got the amp in two days from Texas via USPS. Anyways, install the used amp from ebay and installed the JL subwoofer I got from Crutchfield, link and pic of the subwoofer is posted on this thread, on an earlier post. I connected the amp and subwoofer, turned ignition on to ACC and prayed, HU came on and woofer started thumping. What came out of all this is, your subwoofer RMS needs to be match or be very close to the output of your amp in order for both to work properly and not overheat and fry. The 8 inch JL sounds good, nothing compared to my two 10 inch Apline's in an enclosed box, but alot better than the stock OEM subwoofer. To make things sound better I installed Dynamat to the underside of the rear deck to stop it from vibrating along with the seat belt assembly that hangs from underneath the rear deck. The Dynamat made the woofer sound way much better, rattling gone and cleaner sounding. One thing off the mod checklist, couple more to go...............