Screwdriva

I would do the following:

1) Run a bottle of Chevron Techron on a nearly empty tank.

2) Purchase a bottle of Auto RX (www.auto-rx.com). I've used the stuff on 3 cars and the results are outstanding. Take a look at all the additional testimonials and see for yourself.

3) After completing both Techron and Auto-Rx treatments (the latter takes a good 3,000 miles of driving), switch to Mobil 1 Extended Performance Oil and Filter and use good gas

4) When it comes time to swap out the tires switch to Michelin Energy rubber

You should be golden!

Mythotical

I hate to resurrect a post this old and with so much slander in it but I think there was something missed here. Early on in the thread he mentioned having the TB cleaned due to hard starting. That makes me wonder if the air assisted injectors have junk in them causing them to be no longer efficient. I drive my 98 es like I stole it mostly in the city and I still get around 17 or so mpg average, But my entire intake and air assist system are spotless because I removed and cleaned it and I will never use a K&N filter, as they are junk and let a ton of crap into your engine.

Stranger2

Hi, I'm wondering if you ever figured out the cause -- and if so, what was it? I'm experiencing the same problem!

repairmatt

Just an idea, has anybody considered dragging brakes? My MPG dropped suddenly after the winter season and I couldn't figure out why. Came home one day to smell something hot and it wasn't the engine. Felt the rims and just about burnt myself, I don't want to know how hot the rotors were. Replaced the brakes (the left side caliper was black and the right side rotor was warped, they had gotten so hot) and now I'm getting about 24MPG mixed driving with the AC on. Before I was getting about 19MPG mixed with the AC off.

luke5656

Put some sea foam in the oil tank next oil change and in the gas tank.

cjustice05

I just notice the same issue a month ago....any results yet?

Hayk

iTrader: (1)

Could you explain the air assisted injectors? How does the system work?

285exp

Now don't go slandering him.

Mythotical

Wow this thread will never die. Read this, it should explain. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&ei=8P_FVIz0JoGvogShyYLYDw&url=http://www.turboninjas.com/camry/eg2.pdf&ved=0CBwQFjAA&usg=AFQjCNGZh_0J8KmVHy5-donaPnNuSITusA&sig2=k9aksXmgTkxy_ysjBDeyuA

EPayne42

I swear by Mobil 1 products. I've seen the difference between engines run on conventional oil and synthetic. I'll never use conventional oil again. If you do use conventional oil, change it early and often and don't drive like a nut.

285exp

You can use synthetics if it makes you feel better, but the fuel economy benefits are not really that great.

But what's behind so many makers of ordinary cars requiring expensive synthetic oil in the first place? Linden says automakers can save between 0.5 and 1 percent on EPA fuel economy tests compared with 5W-20 motor oil. The tests are run starting with a cold engine, so the lower viscosity reduces friction until the engine warms up

Once it's warmed up, plain old oil of the same viscosity rating is going to be almost undistinguishable from the synthetic. There are some good reasons to use synthetic. If you live in areas of extreme cold, synthetic will flow much better cold than does mineral oil, so it will save some wear on the engine and starter. The oil change interval can be lengthened, so you might be able to save a little money there. But greatly increased fuel economy is not one of those good reasons. If you don't believe me, go to the Mobil1 site and read what they have to say about it.

*Savings would be based on .2-2.3 percent fuel economy improvement obtained by switching from higher viscosity oils to a 0W-20 or 0W-30 grade. Actual savings are dependent on vehicle/engine type, outside temperature, driving conditions, and your current engine oil viscosity.

Even the people who make the stuff claim only a 2.3% maximum improvement, with the real number probably falling somewhere closer to 1%.