I got 6 different codes from my 02 ES. 4 of these codes were Cylinder Misfire and othere 2 were P0171 System Too Lean(Bank1), and P1130 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Malfunction(Bank1 Sensor1). Car has been running rough. I am ready to replace plugs either today or tomorrow. But not sure what to do with other 2 codes, and where are they referring to when they say Bank1 / Sensor1?
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It was steady and it flashed and steady and flahsed.....
was this photo taken from underneath?
I am going to toyota dealership to pick up those parts, but your saying hold off on that sensor? my car has been running really really rough for past few days... so i am thinking it's more than just plugs....
It was taken from underneath after I had wash the underside of the vehicle. The thing I'd be looking at if your vehicle is still bogged down is getting some ignition coil(s), because a flashing CEL and bringing up misfire codes means you probably have one or more dead coils (which sit on top of the spark plugs). I'd run the code reader again and see what codes still show up after you reset the codes once. You might not need the sensor in the end.
Yes, the code reader will show where the bad coil is. What I recommend is you check the codes again and write them down, then clear out the codes, start the vehicle for at least 10 seconds (even if you get a check engine light already), then recheck the codes and see what you get.
The coils are the key thing to get replaced first.
AutoZone reads the codes for fee, but I highly recommend at some point just getting a code reader, there are tons of them across the net for under $100 USD and they pay for themselves.
The codes you could potentially get on the misfires are:
P0300, this is a random misfire, don't worry about that one
The last number of each code pertains to the cylinder, with 1, 3, 5 being the rear bank of the engine going from passenger side to driver side.
2,4,6 are on the front bank going from passenger side to driver side.
These coils area really simply to change. If they are on the front you will need to remove the engine cover. They use a small hex wrench bolt, but you can get small screwdriver in there to get them out. Then a 10mm wrench is all you need to screw them out. Certainly not a PITA like doing the spark plugs, http://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx30...-patience.html (and that shows the coils themsleves in that DIY).
Thanks for your quick responses Lexmex, I wish I had more time to surf the net to get good priced obdII scanner/reader so I am just gonna go to autozone and get one for $130 and return em after a week or so... and when I went to advanced auto parts and borrowed a scanner and scanned it myself last night and got 12 codes but only wrote down 6. Not 100% sure but it seemed like they were throwing same codes twice. So here it goes...
P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire
P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire
P0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire
P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire
P0171 System Too Lean(Bank1)
P1130 Manufacture Control Fuel Air Metering (Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Malfunction(Bank1 / Sensor1)
and it seemed like it was giving these codes twice if i recall.... what are the chances of them sensors going bad by looking at these codes?
Here's the thing, if the CEL is blinking, the coils in all probability on those rear banks are done. The reason I would ask for you to check the codes again is a few times on my own vehicle after I had a misfire and on some others back in Mexico, it would show multiple the first time and in actuality it was only one coil.
Some people like to actually switch coils, say moving the rear coils to the front and vice-versa to check to see if they get a different code. I'd do that but only for a few seconds with the vehicle turned on, just enough to get the codes to see if they are indeed done. But blinking cel is the real key here.
Spark plugs are only the issue if highly dirty or bad gap and they really won't throw a blinking cel, you'd get a a solid CEL and a misfire code.
so you would do...
1. spark plugs replacement
2. check the coils
3. swap out the sensors mentioned above, correct?
how hard is it to remove the rear coil/plugs? is it even possible without removing other parts like you said? and do you have detailed diy write up on how to check coil if it's bad or good? first i am gonna put the rear coils to front and put front ones to the rear... i am replacing plugs tonight!
dang i know i am asking lots of questions over nothing.... but since it's my first time doing/trying these things hope you understand....
is it okay to switch front coils and rear coils? because it's so hard to access rear ones, so i will put the rear one to the front and if it's bad i can access it easy since it's on front now...
k, remove battery from car first to let it reset, then swap the coil packs around. and let the ecu tell you the cel again, and scan, if the codes have changed, then your coil packs are toast. ive already replaced two. and the 3 in the rear will not have to be changed, as they are spark plug wires that gets its signal from the coil pack.
from the passenger side looking into the engine bay, cylinder 1 is closest left, cylinder 2 is closest right, cylinder 5 is furthest left, and 6 is furthest right.
cylinder 1 gets its signal from the coil pack on cylinder 2.
or get spark plugs some cheap spark plugs, gap them and throw them in.
how many miles does your car have? my first coil went at about 197,xxx, and the second went at about 207,xxx. just waiting on the third one now.