2002 Es 300 Rear Sub Removal
#16
Pole Position
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Mississippi
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Please be careful with changing components in the ML audio system. From what I understand, each component has a non-standard resistance (ohm rating) and this makes it difficult to find proper aftermarket matches that will work with everything else without frying your system and/or seriously degrading the sound quality.
Most people opt for complete replacement (amplifier, sub, tweeters, etc.) if they want to change from the ML factory audio.
Most people opt for complete replacement (amplifier, sub, tweeters, etc.) if they want to change from the ML factory audio.
#18
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: WA
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thanks alot for the info. i followed your instructions and everything went great. took out the mark levinson sub, cut the wiring harness off, spliced it and attached it to the replacement sub. made a wooden template so that i could line up the bolts from the factory speaker with the jl audio sub. came out great!
Thanks!
#21
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: tn
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This must be a very common issue with the ML audio. Mine does the same thing. I'm not looking for a really hard hitting bass system...just one that doesn't sound blown.
#23
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Washington
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Can anyone help?
I've got to the subwoofer and unscrewed the 4 screws but can't seem to get the speaker out! How is this done? Is it caulked/glued down also? I just unplugged the harness connecting to it for now
#24
There may be a foam spongy tape around the borders of the speaker housing that's holding it down. If you are certain you have all the screws off then it should be just a matter of prying it up. That's the way it was I my car 2002 ES. Rg. The caulking, depending on how bad the deterioration is and where it is it may or may not hold. I tried it in mine, it worked for a while but it came undone after a while. I finally decided to spend $100 and got it professionally repaired and it was good as when I got the car.
#25
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Washington
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Sub removal
But does just the sub pull out? Or the whole plate which is where the screws were in ? It's metal and I didn't want to pry it up in case I'm missing a step
#27
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: CA
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Just wanted to add some visuals that may help getting to the sub woofer.
The premature failure due to material fatigue is obviously "planned obsolescence", combined with the odd custom shape mounting to present an obstacle/ elimination of competitors. Can you say "Kertching , Kertiching"?
The premature failure due to material fatigue is obviously "planned obsolescence", combined with the odd custom shape mounting to present an obstacle/ elimination of competitors. Can you say "Kertching , Kertiching"?
Last edited by mouse23; 03-05-15 at 11:56 AM. Reason: Additional comments
#28
These photos are super helpful. I'm still having a crazy difficult time getting the C pillar cushions out though. I can get the barbs out, but that's it. I can't figure out how to get the front or rear hooks off of the deck. Anyone have any advice?