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99 ES300 Won't Start....I need help badly...

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Old 09-02-06, 03:08 AM
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turbotc
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Default 99 ES300 Won't Start....I need help badly...

Sorry to start this new thread but I was not able to edit the title of the last thread I started. Here is the old thread.

So I took advice and purchased 2 new contacts and a new plunger. I got it yesterday. I removed starter from the car and installed the new parts. Put the starter back and the car won't start. Now I don't hear any more clicks like I used to. Starter does nothing.

So I took starter back out and opened it back up and checked and everything was installed correctly. I put starter back in again and nothing. Car won't start. So far I have new contacts and new plunger.

I opened the Lexus manual and found the 2 fuses that labled "starting system". One is 5A and the other 30A. Both looks fine, not burned. I tried to shift the car through different gears and then put it in park and start again but nothing. I located a blue square relay in the fusebox marked 'starter relay" but don't know how to test it.

So I used a voltmeter and tested the battery. It has good 12V. Then I put the + end to the large cable that goes to the starter and the - end to the ground of the car and that came back with a good 12V so I know their is 12V going to the starter. But when I stuck that + end to the black ignition wire that goes to the starter and had my wife try to start the car, I don't get the 12V reading.

So I am at a lost. When my wife try to start the car, shouldn't that ignition wire into the starter have a 12v reading since the ignition is kicking in to start it? Do you guys think I might have burned something while tackling this job, maybe damaged the electronics of the car? All the lights still go on and all dashboard lights still lights up. Should I just go out and purchase a rebuilt starter?

Any help is so much appreciated. I am at a complete lost and wonder if I should now have it towed to the local Lexus/Toyota dealer. Thanks.

Vince.
Old 09-02-06, 05:26 PM
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intrmsof2
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If you're doing exactly as you described, you're dropping all 12 volts across the load (starter). It sounds like there's still something wrong in the starter, either a new problem since you rebuilt it, or the same problem made worse.

One thing you might want to keep in mind though, a fully charged battery is 12.6 volts. If you think it's fully charged and it registers below that (12.0 to around 12.4 or .5) the battery itself is likely bad.

Another suggestion would be to load test the battery. Just because you have 12 volts when the battery is sitting dormant does not mean that it delivers 12 when it is loaded. Disable the fuel system by pulling the fuel system relay from the underhood fuse box. Then place the voltmeter across the battery the way you did before and have someone else crank the car. Observe what the voltage drops to. Sufficient voltage to start the car is no less than 11.5v (by my own rule of thumb). If it drops below that, it is possible that it may not be able to even turn the starter anymore.

Either way, before you spend anymore money on the starter, make sure that the battery is truly good.

Once you've determined the battery to be in good working order, I would just go buy a rebuilt one. You can always return it if you find that you don't need it. If it works then you know you messed up one the rebuild and you have a working starter while you play with the one that doesn't work. That's a good opportunity to tool around if nothing else.
Old 09-03-06, 06:27 AM
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Originally Posted by intrmsof2
Either way, before you spend anymore money on the starter, make sure that the battery is truly good.
Thanks. But this has nothing to do with the battery as it has plenty of juice.
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