3vz-fe VS. 1mz-fe
#1
Pole Position
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Georgia
Posts: 391
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
3vz-fe VS. 1mz-fe
Hey engine pros out there! what are the differences between these two engines (including the jdm versions), i know they both will fit into my 95 Es but the reason im asking is im thinking about replacing the old engine i have now. 1) its leaking a significant amount of oil (i assume from rear seal considering i just had my waterpump replaced along with all the front seals. 2) for future modification including, cam upgrades, n20, and forced induction to increase horsepwr and torque. 3) b/c my engine is 10yrs old and has to be losing compression. So any of you engine veterans out there give me the rundown on these two engines and any other input you may have about these future modifications for my car!
#3
3vz-fe is roughly 90lbs heavier & LEV compliant (No emessiosn systems are checked) Has OBD-I (easy tuning). Far stronger stock parts (not cinlduging head gaskets). Low - mid range camshaft cetupsup.
1mz-fe is ULEV, has OBD-II & required emessions chekcing euipment, weaker partrs, much lighter, revised cams to provide more high & low end (but 1/2 the low rpm power).
Don't swap a 3vz-fe for a 1mz-fe. It's going to be an assload of work, lots of money, they're still going to have roughly the same problems & the shifting powerbands negate themselves stock VS stock in both power & fuel consumption.
1mz-fe is ULEV, has OBD-II & required emessions chekcing euipment, weaker partrs, much lighter, revised cams to provide more high & low end (but 1/2 the low rpm power).
Don't swap a 3vz-fe for a 1mz-fe. It's going to be an assload of work, lots of money, they're still going to have roughly the same problems & the shifting powerbands negate themselves stock VS stock in both power & fuel consumption.
#5
They're not close to identicle. They share no components. They will bolt up, but this is a very, very bad idea. You're talking about spending a few thousand dollars for no reason.
#6
One has VVTi and one doesn't (depending on year)... But that wouldn't matter. Both motors will perform almost identical, and they both have been known for a lot of similar problems.
#7
Pole Position
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Georgia
Posts: 391
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
so i should basically consider switching from my 1mzfe to a 3vzfe for future modification? does anyone know what a new or "some what new" 3vz with low miles would cost including the labor for the swap? if i have a pretty extensive automobile knowledge should i consider doing it myself? direct bolt up or wiring conversions req'd.
now with the obd 1 i dont need to worry about a confilicting turbo timer or stand alone ECU?
now with the obd 1 i dont need to worry about a confilicting turbo timer or stand alone ECU?
Trending Topics
#9
Lexus Connoisseur
Originally Posted by MoreMGD32
Hey engine pros out there! what are the differences between these two engines (including the jdm versions), i know they both will fit into my 95 Es but the reason im asking is im thinking about replacing the old engine i have now. 1) its leaking a significant amount of oil (i assume from rear seal considering i just had my waterpump replaced along with all the front seals. 2) for future modification including, cam upgrades, n20, and forced induction to increase horsepwr and torque. 3) b/c my engine is 10yrs old and has to be losing compression. So any of you engine veterans out there give me the rundown on these two engines and any other input you may have about these future modifications for my car!
1MZ-FE V6 - Aluminum Block - OBD II
2MZ-FE V6 - Aluminum Block - JDM 2.5L V6
You are better off getting another 1MZ-FE V6 with your stock wiring harness and etc. The 3VZ-FE with the iron block is better to boost with...stronger bottom end. The 1MZ-FE is a high compresssion 10.5:1 motor whereas the 3VZ is 9.5 or 9. I forgot it's been so long. Be careful going nitrous on the 1MZ-FE, the rods on the 1MZ-FE are as thin as your pinky finger. They break like toothpicks with nitrous shots.
#10
Pole Position
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Georgia
Posts: 391
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok,well im def. not swaping to the 3vz now...would there be any benifit to building my internals or maybe boring out my engine to get some added power instead of replacing it with a new engine? as well as benefit me for when i decide to go nitrous?
Do you think the stock engine and internals could support a 75 shot?
my next concern is the tranny....how reliable are the es tranny's when it comes to nitrous or other modifications? do they break down easily? (i have an auto tranny)
Do you think the stock engine and internals could support a 75 shot?
my next concern is the tranny....how reliable are the es tranny's when it comes to nitrous or other modifications? do they break down easily? (i have an auto tranny)
#11
Ya man a 75 wet shot wouldn't take anything to run. 1mz-fe's have 280cc injectors stock. They're good for 280-300bhp *if* you raise the fuel pressure & grab a piggyback (& only tune open-loop mode where it won't tune changes out) . Tho you could easily run more than a 75 wet shot; Sean always had a great point. You really need to find another way to add fuel as most of them add the wrong amount of fuel 'cause they make more power than they're rated for.
Pleanty of FI 1mz-fe's out there making 250-350bhp without problems. Just make sure the fuel system & tuning are up to it. You're not likely to break something well tuned. But if you get them lean, you can melt rings and/or pistons, or spin / snap a rod in half with detonation.
Transmissions really depend on what you want. Past 250whp with anything on a stock transmission, ever with an aux. cooler & valve body upgrades, spells lots of trouble in a short amount of time.
Pleanty of FI 1mz-fe's out there making 250-350bhp without problems. Just make sure the fuel system & tuning are up to it. You're not likely to break something well tuned. But if you get them lean, you can melt rings and/or pistons, or spin / snap a rod in half with detonation.
Transmissions really depend on what you want. Past 250whp with anything on a stock transmission, ever with an aux. cooler & valve body upgrades, spells lots of trouble in a short amount of time.
#12
Boring is the biggest joke of all time. It adds power linearly.
Stock bore - stroke is 87.5mm - 83mm.
(3.445" - 3.268")
That's a 182.744ci displacement.
A common up-size is 0.40". * 6 cylinders adds 2.4ci
185.144ci.
Since it's a linear power gain you can calculate it.
A 95 1mz-fe makes 188bhp. We just added 1.013% displacement & there-hence-forth 1.013% power.
188 * 101.013 =
189.9bhp
Stroking adds more - at the cost of $2000 for your typical v6 stroking kit. (I would expect 2500-3000 just for the kit)
Whereas this is a 2995cc engine. Stroking it out to 3400cc is a larger change. 13.5%
188*113.5% = 213bhp.
AFA should you change parts just to run mild nitrous? I vote no for money's sake.
You're looking at $550 for a set of new pistons & either $250 a rod for custom chrome-moly, or $680 a rod for titanium rods.
Tho you can get some minor horsepower increases from less reciripcating mass, it wouldn't be worth it.
(My engine shop claims something like 30bhp starting around 8000rpm from titanium rods, frowing with rpm.)
Stock bore - stroke is 87.5mm - 83mm.
(3.445" - 3.268")
That's a 182.744ci displacement.
A common up-size is 0.40". * 6 cylinders adds 2.4ci
185.144ci.
Since it's a linear power gain you can calculate it.
A 95 1mz-fe makes 188bhp. We just added 1.013% displacement & there-hence-forth 1.013% power.
188 * 101.013 =
189.9bhp
Stroking adds more - at the cost of $2000 for your typical v6 stroking kit. (I would expect 2500-3000 just for the kit)
Whereas this is a 2995cc engine. Stroking it out to 3400cc is a larger change. 13.5%
188*113.5% = 213bhp.
AFA should you change parts just to run mild nitrous? I vote no for money's sake.
You're looking at $550 for a set of new pistons & either $250 a rod for custom chrome-moly, or $680 a rod for titanium rods.
Tho you can get some minor horsepower increases from less reciripcating mass, it wouldn't be worth it.
(My engine shop claims something like 30bhp starting around 8000rpm from titanium rods, frowing with rpm.)
#14
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: scotland
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hi guys....i joined today just for this post (the joys of google)...i drive a sw20 1997 mr2 ..my engine blew so im going for a v6 conversion...from the car shop the options are the 3vz fe or 1mz fe....now the 1mz is dearer but that is not the issue......i just want to know for reliability and performance which would be best??... i get the impression that the 3vzfe seems to be better engineered without cost cutting in mind but heavier....anyone know by how much?? I cannot seem to find this by googling...any help/opinions would be appreciated. thanks