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60,000 Mile Tune Up

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Old 03-26-05, 08:23 PM   #1
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Default 60,000 Mile Tune Up

What Does A 60,000 Mile Tune Up Consist Of ....i Just Called The Dealer And They Told Me A Price Of 1100, Bucks........timeing Belt ,water Pump And Thermostat Included ............does All That Need To Be Changed At 60,000 Miles .......what Do They Do Exactly ...and Do I Have To Use Lexus
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Old 03-27-05, 09:30 AM   #2
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If you plan on keeping the car a long time and want to avoid any surprises in the future, it would be good to have it done. You can go to an independent Lexus guy. They usually worked at a dealer before. Check your local paper or business circulars in the mail. I always see a few places advertising the 30k, 60, 90k service for imports. Of course they are usually not $1100.

Id shop around for sure.
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Old 03-27-05, 10:21 AM   #3
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spent about $600 for mine. timing belt, Water pump and a few other things, but timing belt is the most imortant.
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Old 03-27-05, 10:32 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bumfighter
What Does A 60,000 Mile Tune Up Consist Of ....i Just Called The Dealer And They Told Me A Price Of 1100, Bucks........timeing Belt ,water Pump And Thermostat Included ............does All That Need To Be Changed At 60,000 Miles .......what Do They Do Exactly ...and Do I Have To Use Lexus
Why do the TB (timing belt at 60K) The word here is every 90K miles on the ES's. Also I would not even mess with the thermostate unless you have a heating problem. Save the $1XX in change.

The price you got seems high but that is me. I just had my 98 ES drive belts done, TB done, cam and crank seals done and water pump replaced for around $740. The thermostate was $120 installed if I wanted it.

i do everything on the car except the TB, water pump and drive belts.I would call around since I got a delta in price of around $250+ for the same thing at various Lexus dealers.
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Old 03-27-05, 01:16 PM   #5
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I agree with Mike (gsxr1100).
TB and waterpump don't need to be done until the 90k service, maybe more so if you have a pre-99 ES (non-interference).

A complete 60k would be oil & filter, tranny drain & fill, brake fluid replacement, ps fluid replacement, coolant flush & fill, tire rotation, air filter replacement, cabin filter replacement, new wiper blades. Personally I am including spark plug replacement and a motorvac (top end cleaning) on my ES.

Most of this stuff can be done in your driveway to cut down on the cost.

steviej

PS, Mike (gsxr1100) why you flying under a different screen name now?
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Old 03-27-05, 04:11 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steviej
I agree with Mike (gsxr1100).
steviej

PS, Mike (gsxr1100) why you flying under a different screen name now?
Ha Steve- My old one got banned for some unknown reason. I emailed Dave to find out what is up.
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Old 03-29-05, 08:22 PM   #7
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on the 1mz motors we do timing belts at 90K. along with a water pump

60K dealership service at my dealership consists of
rotate tires
check tire pressure
replace wiper inserts
Lube Door checks
fill washer fluid
Air Filter
PCV valve
add some Toyota Fuel System additive
coolant flush, if longlife (red) - convert to green.
flush trans fluid (Drain and replace, 4 qts)
oil change
see what plugs you have, if you have iridium plugs, no need to change for another 30K. if ya dont have iridiums, it might be a good preventative maintenance thing to just change em. front three are cake, and though most people dont think so, the back three are cake...for me at least, ive done amillion of em. if ya need help, lemme know
overall check of the car. thats the gist of it.
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Old 03-29-05, 09:00 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BruteSBC
on the 1mz motors we do timing belts at 90K. along with a water pump

60K dealership service at my dealership consists of
rotate tires
check tire pressure
replace wiper inserts
Lube Door checks
fill washer fluid
Air Filter
PCV valve
add some Toyota Fuel System additive
coolant flush, if longlife (red) - convert to green.
flush trans fluid (Drain and replace, 4 qts)
oil change
see what plugs you have, if you have iridium plugs, no need to change for another 30K. if ya dont have iridiums, it might be a good preventative maintenance thing to just change em. front three are cake, and though most people dont think so, the back three are cake...for me at least, ive done amillion of em. if ya need help, lemme know
overall check of the car. thats the gist of it.
I agree.......only thing I would add would be a fuel filter to that list.
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Old 03-30-05, 03:47 AM   #9
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toyota fuel filters are a lifetime fuel filter, as with the trans filters, at the dealership, we NEVER change them, the filter are also screwed to the lines by machines, so alot of the time ya strip the threads on the way out and have a nice time adding a fuel line. but if ya can get it off, go for it!!!!
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Old 03-30-05, 10:10 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BruteSBC
toyota fuel filters are a lifetime fuel filter, as with the trans filters, at the dealership, we NEVER change them, the filter are also screwed to the lines by machines, so alot of the time ya strip the threads on the way out and have a nice time adding a fuel line. but if ya can get it off, go for it!!!!
I wish I would have know this before I did it on the LS. Even that was a pain and its gotta be 5 times easier than the ES. Those look impossible to get it onto the lower bolt.
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Old 03-30-05, 12:28 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BruteSBC
on the 1mz motors we do timing belts at 90K. along with a water pump

60K dealership service at my dealership consists of
coolant flush, if longlife (red) - convert to green.
Why is Toyota/Lexus abandoning the longlife (red) and going back to conventional (green) coolant? Of is this just a procedure at your dealership? I would have expected a conversion to superlonglife (pink) coolant if any conversion is to be done.

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Old 03-30-05, 03:54 PM   #12
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toyotas super long life, just like GMs Dexcool is rated to 100K. however, it rotts the hell out of everything the coolant touches. the stuff just seems to be eating up the insides of stuff. water pumps and radiators etc. alot of them are converted at like 30K. the stuff is just garbage. the only time we replace long life with long life is if it is for a recall, like on the Sienna minivans, recently they had 5 or 6 recalls, one was the radiator replacement. iunno, the stuff just likes to corrode parts. id imagine all dealerships do it, but then again, every dealership is different. i know i wouldnt want that long life stuff in my car, but thats me. haha and sorry, the stuff is pink, im color blind on MANY levels haha. watch me wire a stereo haha
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Old 03-30-05, 06:14 PM   #13
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BRUTE, I your most recent post was in regards to the pink stuff, the super long life coolant rated at 100k.

what are you thoughts on the red stuff, the toyota's orgininal long life coolant rated at 5 years or 60k miles? Is that as bad as the super long life coolant. I now my dealership has said they don't trust it to 60k and recommend flushing at 30k. That is what i have been following.

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Old 03-30-05, 07:24 PM   #14
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thats exactly what i was gonna say, flush it out at the first service that requires it...the 30,000 mile service. personally i wouldnt want it in my vehicle to 60K. it would be useless to pay for a flush before 30K, cuz your just gonna end up flushing it at 30K anyway, ya know. unless one day your bored and ya got some free time and free green coolant sitting around. the stuff is fine in there to 30K, but when they do the flush, id throw green stuff in without thinking twice. and our 1mz's have the block drain on em too, so ya drain the block and the rad and ya get 90% of it out...and we are happy campers the long life stuff just loves to eat up aluminum though.
i mean i could be wrong on all this, but i have a camaro that has been running green in it all its life and the water pump went on it at 132K, and we are talking GM quality junk metal. and a co-worker has a 2002 silverado, that has had dexcool in it all its life, flushed, then replace with dexcool (you absolutly can not mix the dexcool and green) with 48 or 50K, and the waterpump has been leaking out the weep hole for some time now. also people im just using this as an example, i know we arent talking bout dexcool though.
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Old 03-30-05, 11:05 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BruteSBC
thats exactly what i was gonna say, flush it out at the first service that requires it...the 30,000 mile service. personally i wouldnt want it in my vehicle to 60K. it would be useless to pay for a flush before 30K, cuz your just gonna end up flushing it at 30K anyway, ya know. unless one day your bored and ya got some free time and free green coolant sitting around. the stuff is fine in there to 30K, but when they do the flush, id throw green stuff in without thinking twice. and our 1mz's have the block drain on em too, so ya drain the block and the rad and ya get 90% of it out...and we are happy campers the long life stuff just loves to eat up aluminum though.
i mean i could be wrong on all this, but i have a camaro that has been running green in it all its life and the water pump went on it at 132K, and we are talking GM quality junk metal. and a co-worker has a 2002 silverado, that has had dexcool in it all its life, flushed, then replace with dexcool (you absolutly can not mix the dexcool and green) with 48 or 50K, and the waterpump has been leaking out the weep hole for some time now. also people im just using this as an example, i know we arent talking bout dexcool though.
You cant compare what GM went through with what Toyota is going through.
You have to figure out if all the coolant was flushed and the procedure used.
If mixing the coolant was the culprit, 90% flush isnt gonna cut it.

When I drained the coolant, I filled it with water, ran it for 10 min with high heat, drained it, filled it up with water again, repeated teh 10 min high heat, and then drained it again. You have to make sure none of that green stuff is still in there.

To really make sure the green stuff is out and only water is left in there, you would almost have to use food coloring or some type of dye that would interact with green to make it some other color.

Does someone have a full proof way of getting all the old green stuff out?

I think most people just open the drain ****, run water down the radiator and run it till they see some type of clear coming out of the drain. Not sure this is the proper way to do that.
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Old 03-30-05, 11:05 PM
 
 
 
 
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