What happens if I cant get the rotor off? The holes are 12mm but I have ruined 4 bolts trying to get the dang rotor off. The Brembo replacement rotors I got dont have those 2 holes. So would they be easier to come off? This is the first brake job I have done on this car. 93 es300 with 245k on it. Did the rears and used anti-seize on almost everything. So I know it will all come apart alot easier next time. well I guess no one did that on the front....So How can I get the rotors off? Im on my first side right now and the car is sitting in the drive way lol. any info would be great. Thanks.
- For a 'stuck' rotor/disc, if the 2 bolts into the holes will not force it off, then the problem is rust around the hub flange. You need to use a short piece of bar stock or something stout, like a ballpeen hammer head, as a punch and beat the disc around the inner circumference to break this rust loose. Beating on a piece of steel longer than the stud bolts will help prevent accidently hitting one of them and messing up the threads. I take a wire cup on a grinder and thoroughly clean all the rust off the hub and apply never-sieze before putting the new rotor on.
- If you want to, now is the best time to paint the new rotor, especially if you can see through the wheels. I use laquer thinner and get all the packaging oil off first. Take a piece of thin cardboard and cut a piece that will cover the contact surface of the disc, then spray the hub part with bar-b-que paint or other high temp paint made for exhaust pipe. This can also be done with the caliper holder on the car but the pad holder removed. Just slip the cardboard 'circle' under the tabs.
- While you have the caliper off the rotor, check the thickness of the old pads. If one of them is thicker than the other, then that side is not wearing evenly due to either a stuck/frozen piston (assuming single piston type here), or stuck/frozen slide pin(s). The pins referred to here are the fixed one and the removable one that you take out to get the pad holder part off the caliper mount, which can stay bolted to the axle assembly if you're not replacing the rotor. Pull both pins out of their bushings and clean and lube them with a bit of high temp grease. Assembled, the entire pad mount should slide back and forth easily, about 3/16", by hand. Usually, a tear in one of the rubber covers will allow water into the slider and rust it up.
- It doesn't hurt to squirt a bit of silicone spray into the piston outer bore to help keep it watertight and rust-free. Use a sharp pick and peel back the rubber grommet, push the tiny spray tube in and squirt away.
Thanks for the info donbryce! Makes sense but I may need to run to the parts store. I do have and use anit-seize. Did it with the rear brakes. But could not figure out why it was so hard to get the rotor off. Just figured there might be another way other then it being rusted in and beating it like crazy. I will have to try that this weekend. Hopefully it works. And I have the stock wheels now...I would really like a set off of an newer RX-350 or the wheels off of the new Venza. But that probably wont happen. lol. Thanks again for the info. I knew I could get help here!
HA!! I did it!!! Thanks for the help! One disc actually split/cracked while hitting it off. But I got it off. Then put a nice amount of anti-sieze after cleaning the rust off. Used alot of brake cleaner. But its done and now my car has Brembo discs all around and ceramic brake pads!! Stops great!
Ok, I changed the rear rotor and pads on my ES 300. These things always take a lot longer than I planned.
The first hurdle is getting the caliper off, but once I found the bolts, rather than the caliper pins, it came off. It really confused me because only the lower pin can be removed on my caliper, the upper one can only be rotated on a hinge, and it sure wasn't moving very freely.
The next hurdle is getting the rotor off. The 12 mm screw hole was vital. I found the perfect spare bolt from my HDTV mounting set, screwed it in, and then pop! right off.
The 3rd hurdle is getting those darn shoes to fit in there right, and screwing with that darn clip. I wish they'd make a decent shoe system where they actually easily snapped in and out of place.
Despite taking 3 hours to do it, the results look pretty good. No squeaking or smoking.
Update 2 yrs later, I just changed the front brake pads. It went smoothly and I was able to get the caliper bolts off without any problem. Its funny getting that initial feeling of having no brakes when you first pull out of the garage, then pumping a couple times to get them back to normal. $20 for the pads. Better to get the satisfaction of a job well done than get taken by the auto shop.
I recently replaced my front rotors, brake hardware and pads (ceramic), after I replaced everything the front end started making a knocking noise whenever I press on the brakes (both sides). I did some reading and one site said that I could have gotten bad pads so I replaced those again. The noise stopped and after driving for about 100 miles the noise came back. Not sure what to do, everything was torqued to spec. and all clips and shims were put back on. I even bought a new shim set, but could only put one shim per side. Does anyone have any idea as to what the knocking is, it only does it when I push on the brakes.
I have plans on replacing my brake pads and rotors this weekend, but my only concern is to get the proper torque specs for the caliper bracket and caliper sliding pins. Would anyone know these torque specs?