DIY Dash Corner Speaker Replacement
#47
Driver School Candidate
Infinity speakers
Looks like the ex are discontinued and the replacements are the ix. The ix seem to go lower in frequency down to 53hz vs 57hz for the ex. I am assuming that you can probably get the ex off eBay cheaper since they are discontinued. The specs are almost identical so up to you if you want to do some leg work and find the ex’s or buy from anyone and get the ix and pay a little higher price. I think I saw retail for ex was $99 and ix are $109. These are only for door speakers they are 6.5”
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frankymenz (03-19-22)
#51
When you put the sound deadner on the speaker did you put it between the speaker and its mount? Also did you enclose the backside of the speaker or just put deadner on the door behind it? Thanks, appreciate you
#52
First of all, thanks for your great post with its detailed info. Its helping me a lot along with camfused's post. I got the grills off and the speaker bolts out but for the life of me cannot figure out where the little tab is that unlocks the harness?
#54
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: AZ
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Dennis2020 I plan to run active 3-way up front via Audison APF 8.9 (has built in DSP)
What do I need to do with the factory tweeter wires?
Should I disconnect the center channel, or leave it to run off the factory amp?
Thank you to everyone who has contributed to this thread. Some of the better known audio shops in town have not been able to answer most of the questions that have been addressed here.
What do I need to do with the factory tweeter wires?
Should I disconnect the center channel, or leave it to run off the factory amp?
Thank you to everyone who has contributed to this thread. Some of the better known audio shops in town have not been able to answer most of the questions that have been addressed here.
#55
I referenced this thread and installed 6 new polk audio speakers in my 2014 Es350 today. I bought the red wolf speaker harness adapters that BUKI recommended. I had to reverse the polarity, no big deal, that was for just the front 4” speakers at each dash corner. I installed Polk Audio DB402 dash speakers and 2 pair of Polk Audio DB652 at the 4 doors. I didn’t replace the rear deck sub woofer. As a few CL members have said, the sound improvement was pretty dramatic. The OEM speakers, premium sound, no ML and no NAV, were surprisingly light and small compared to the polks. I bought through crutchfield and they included all the speaker adapters and wire harness adapters, except the front dash speakers. I had to remove 2 mounting tabs from each front dash speaker, they have 4, in order for them to fit into the well and secure with 2 bolts per speaker. I also had to trim a bit of metal out at each mounting tab to allow the bolt to fit inside the slot of each tab. I’m very happy with the results, I did have a problem with the right rear door. I think the latch may be funky, the white ended door lock cable, runs from the latch to the interior door handle lock lever, would not move properly and I had to mess with it a bit to allow the door to lock and unlock. I think the latch is going bad, I had to leave the cable disconnected at the door handle for it to lock and unlock, otherwise the door would not unlock and open. I got lucky, I closed the door and it wouldn’t re-open, I was able to finally get it to open by rapidly cycling the lock unlock buttons. It’s the only door I had a problem with. I never use the back door from the inside, I suspect it’s probably had the problem since I’ve had it, because a few times passengers tried to get out from inside and I had to power unlock it for them, when I removed the panel both cables popped out of their slots and it’s possible the lock cable wasn’t installed all the way in before I took it apart. Anyone who’s dealt with that issue is welcome to chime in, like I said I think it’s a latch going bad? Otherwise all is well and for about $210 to Crutchfield and $15 to Amazon, I’ve got a very good sound upgrade.
#56
My lock cable ripped out of lock lever(plastic) at the latch. I chose to replace the latch, due to the ball not snapping into the lever very snugly, got an Aisin latch off Amazon for less than half of the Lexus dealer. I didn’t trust snapping the cable back into the lever in the latch and having it come out and jam up the latch again, this time unable to get the door open and having to deal with the panel on and door unable to open. I will save the old latch and possibly cut out the actuator motor and reuse it for another door latch if an actuator motor fails.
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