16 ES350 UL (delivery Sat)
#76
This isn't something you want to paint yourself. Its actually a fairly complex part to paint. Its textured plastic that isn't designed to be painted, so that texture has to be sanded down and smoothed out and the paint has to adhere.
Its a close to $50,000 car, if you're going to do a mod like this, do it right. Spray cans belong on Civics.
The part does come off I'm sure, its just connected behind the cover.
Its a close to $50,000 car, if you're going to do a mod like this, do it right. Spray cans belong on Civics.
The part does come off I'm sure, its just connected behind the cover.
SEM makes all of the materials necessary. They have an adhesion promoter and a high filler primer thats capable of "filling" the texture. It might require a couple coats with sanding in between, but it will help fill them in (you could smooth it out a little before using any of the paint to help the process)
PaintScratch.com mixes the paint custom to match your vehicle. You can get regular "auto paint" and use a spray gun connected to a compressor (which I have), or you can get spray cans that supposedly atomize the paint finer than normal cans. The problem is you are looking at about 80 bux in materials....if its really 200 to have a body shop paint it, its well worth the extra money spent. I imagine you might be able to get the price a little lower if you can remove the black portion and bring just that to a shop.
#77
@SW15LS you are absolutely correct!! I'd never attempt to do myself. I feel the body shop I have dealt with for years would do a good job. Really don't want any overspray is the reason I'd consider buying the piece to be painted and then placed on the vehicle. I'm fairly new to this forum but I have to say you guys are great with your thoughts, opinions, and suggestions.
#78
Lexus Fanatic
Trying to do something like this with rattle cans and filler on a car like this IMHO is completely "ghetto". I don't typically use terminology like that, but really I can't think of how else to describe it. This is an expensive, classy, high quality car. If you're going to modify it, do it in a classy, high quality way. That includes leaving any paintwork to professionals with computerized paint matching, proper tools, paint booths, and know how....and leaving the spray paint cans at the store.
FYI, good painters never use "more filler" or "more paint" to cover up a surface problem. The thicker the paint the more likely it is to crack and fail down the line, especially on a flexible piece. To be done right the part itself has to be made paint ready, and that involves sanding it smooth.
Originally Posted by user420
@SW15LS you are absolutely correct!! I'd never attempt to do myself. I feel the body shop I have dealt with for years would do a good job. Really don't want any overspray is the reason I'd consider buying the piece to be painted and then placed on the vehicle. I'm fairly new to this forum but I have to say you guys are great with your thoughts, opinions, and suggestions.
#79
I had to leave the car overnight to allow for proper curing of paint. Chriseve6 is absolutely right about painting over this type of material. The adhesion promoter and primer is of paramount importance. Paint shop covered entire car and taped and covered underneath. I was amazed how absolutely no overspray can be detected. No sanding was required due to the location of this piece. In other words, you would have to get down and look very hard to determine that it was not factory painted.
#80
I had to leave the car overnight to allow for proper curing of paint. Chriseve6 is absolutely right about painting over this type of material. The adhesion promoter and primer is of paramount importance. Paint shop covered entire car and taped and covered underneath. I was amazed how absolutely no overspray can be detected. No sanding was required due to the location of this piece. In other words, you would have to get down and look very hard to determine that it was not factory painted.
#81
Looks as good as the day it was painted. I had concerns also, but my guy (he used to work in a dealership paint shop) convinced me when he said "it's all in the process" in order to have durability. Don't know if you noticed the mud guards on front wheels, but he also painted those. He said the paint and the process is such that even somewhat flexible parts will hold tough and that has so far proven true.
#82
Let me speak to SW15LS's statement regarding removing the part first. I didn't personally check, but painter said it is part of the whole molded bumper (all one piece) and cannot be removed. If I am wrong, then naturally it would be easer to go that route. However, with this particular part (1) where it is located and (2) the crease where new paint starts, makes it even more unnoticeable. One other thing, make sure it is quality paint matching VIN code and final clear coated.
#83
Let me speak to SW15LS's statement regarding removing the part first. I didn't personally check, but painter said it is part of the whole molded bumper (all one piece) and cannot be removed. If I am wrong, then naturally it would be easer to go that route. However, with this particular part (1) where it is located and (2) the crease where new paint starts, makes it even more unnoticeable. One other thing, make sure it is quality paint matching VIN code and final clear coated.
Dave Mac
#84
Lexus Fanatic
Let me speak to SW15LS's statement regarding removing the part first. I didn't personally check, but painter said it is part of the whole molded bumper (all one piece) and cannot be removed. If I am wrong, then naturally it would be easer to go that route. However, with this particular part (1) where it is located and (2) the crease where new paint starts, makes it even more unnoticeable. One other thing, make sure it is quality paint matching VIN code and final clear coated.
#85
Where the black meets the body colored portion there doesnt seem to be any appreciable "seam", even if you try to bend the black plastic portion to see if it separates even a little from the painted portion.
I do agree I cant see the factory going through all the pain to try and paint the whole bumper minus that one black portion, so Im guessing maybe there may be a mechanical AND chemical bond in place somewhere. I surely couldnt feel any fasteners or anything, but I was only using my hands under the bumper to feel around. When I get a chance Ill crawl under the car and try to look around more.
#86
^^^ I've not found any clamps or clips binding the two pieces together either. I'd like to have this mod performed on my vehicle under the right circumstances. I'll probably have to raise the car and take a closer look. Appreciate any other info that you guys care to share.
#87
Lexus Fanatic
Maybe they are seamed together somehow? Strange...
#88
On top of it not looking like 2 pieces, I cant find any parts diagrams that show it as a replaceable piece.
There is something in the diagrams (part #20 here:http://www.mylparts.com/parts/2015/L...iagram=8922650 ) that isnt listed for ordering, but Im not sure thats it...diagram pic makes that part look too small to be the black portion of the rear bumper.
There is something in the diagrams (part #20 here:http://www.mylparts.com/parts/2015/L...iagram=8922650 ) that isnt listed for ordering, but Im not sure thats it...diagram pic makes that part look too small to be the black portion of the rear bumper.
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JMJS49
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06-06-14 08:36 AM