Lexusxoxo

If you go through Jerry (which most do) here our his prices.. This was for a 2013 ES350 but I can't see a 2014 being much more if any. Here is Jerry's email if you would like to contacted him.
jerryj@midwestsuperstore.com

This is a Lexus platinum with zero deductible
8 YEAR 75,000 MILES $1,220.00
8 YEARS 100,000 MILES $1.665.00
8 YEARS 125,000 MILES $2,385.00

lesz

For several years, I brokered cars. During that time, I was able to learn about at least a dozen ways in which dealers can pad their profits and make a deal that looks, on the surface, to be great into a major profit producer for the dealership. Extended warranties are almost pure profit for the dealership. The dealership may pay a few hundred dollars for an extended warranty and, then, sell it to the customer for whatever the traffic will allow, and doing so generally translates into a markup of several hundred percent. Also, even though the big print can make many extended warranties look good, when you read the fine print, you will find a long list of items that are not covered. You will find numerous stories of people who bought extended warranties and didn't discover until after their manufacturer's warranty expired and, say, their expensive suspension system needed to be replaced, that their extended warranty only covered some of the parts and that they were going to have to pay $2000 out of their pockets to get the repairs done. You almost have to be a mechanic and be able to know what all of the parts in a vehicle are to be able to see how much is typically excluded in an extended warranty. Further, with, for example, the Lexus power train warranty now extending to 6 years or 70,000 miles, that "8 year" extended warranty that you might pay a couple of thousand dollars for is essentially a 2 year warranty with lots of exclusions. I knew a good number of car sales people who were willing to sell cars for what appeared to be minimal profit but who were able to turn those deals into ones with thousands of dollars of profit by selling the customer an extended warranty. Instead of buying an extended warranty, during the first 5 years that you own the vehicle, put $30 in the bank every month, and you will, in the vast majority of cases, come out well ahead. The reality is that the markups on extended warranties are so large that, even if a dealer discounts them in a major way, there will still be a large profit for the dealership.

lesz

According to Edmunds.com, the price that the dealer is asking for vehicle is in the ballpark for what you might expect to pay for a CPO 2013 ES. I would have no trouble considering buying a CPO vehicle, but I would hesitate a bit if that vehicle had been in service as a loaner and did not come from a private party. While the loaner has likely had regular maintenance, it is also likely that it has been driven by at least some people who weren't concerned about whether they spilled a cup of coffee in it, some who weren't careful about avoiding door dings, and some who drove the vehicle without concern for putting excessive wear on the car's mechanical components. If I were to consider buying such a vehicle, I would want to look it over very carefully to determine whether I could accept any wear and tear that might be on the vehicle.

As an alternative to buying that vehicle, I would think that you would be able to find some dealers who still have an inventory of new 2013 ES vehicles, and the going price on a similarly equipped remaining 2013 new vehicle should only be a couple of thousand dollars more than you would be paying for that former loaner CPO vehicle. And, if my choice was to pay $36,000 for a used 2013 or $38,000 or so for a new one, it would be an easy choice for me to pick the new vehicle. Also, much of the added cost to buy the new vehicle will come back to you if you sell the vehicle in 4 or 5 years because the resale/trade-in value of the vehicle with 12,000 fewer miles will be significantly more than that of the CPO vehicle with 12,000 more miles on it.

azn103

Are people here posting OTD prices or without all the TTL?

Mike728

OTD prices are pretty meaningless. Too many variables, from trade-in tax reductions, to each state having different fees and tax rates.

Canesguy

Agreed, but if they don't include TTL, they are not really OTD.

Mike728

Exactly, OTD is irrelevant.

jonmanch

Canesguy, OTD is irrelevant. The price of the car before TTL is what you want to know, because each State has a different sales tax (or no tax in Delaware) and there are different fees for transferring plates or getting new ones, etc.

Why are people so hung up about OTD instead of how much is the are before TTL unless you live in the same city?

lesz

Frankly, most of the posts in a thread like this are pretty meaningless, and the information in them can be quite misleading.

Trying to compare prices paid by different individuals will often be meaningless because the true price paid for a vehicle depends on many factors besides the how much above or below invoice or MSRP the customer paid. Among those factors is whether the buyer had a trade-in and how it was valued, whether the buyer leased the vehicle and what the lease terms were, whether the buyer financed the vehicle and what the finance terms were, whether the salesperson was able to sell the customer a high mark-up extended warranty, whether the salesperson was able to sell the customer a high-mark paint protection plan or interior protection plan, whether the vehicle had high mark-up dealer installed options, including nitrogen tire fills, security etching on windows, etc., and whether the dealership adds inflated administrative and documentation processing fees for securing a title, plates, etc. Without including and analyzing each of these items, two deals where it would appear that the buyers paid similar prices relative to invoice could actually be several thousand dollars apart.

Further, another factor that detracts from the usefulness of information in threads like this is that it is a function of both human nature and of the internet for people to want to appear to have outdone each other, and, whenever prices paid for some product are being discussed, you can be confident that there are more than a few who will exaggerate the details of how "good their deal was".

The best value in pricing threads is that information in them has the potential to help buyers to be aware of things for which they should be looking out, but the actual pricing numbers have minimal value.

azn103

Personally I feel the entire cost of the car including TTL is the bottom line. However for this thread's case the price PRIOR to TTL is what should be discussed here.

mikeys350

I spoke to my dealership about an exact es350 I discussed earlier except for leather color that is sitting on their lot. They did the same thing the last dealership did and showed me an "invoice" Price of about 42k. I told them I know actual invoice is around 90% of sticker price. He later came back and said I was right in the ball park. I told him to beat the 40k flat offer I already had at the other dealership. He said 40500 is the best he could do. I left and told him to call me when he gets the price under 40 so I can go fill out paperwork.

mikeys350

Getting closer to making a deal on a 2014 es350. Sent a few emails out early this morning. Got one dealer down to an offer of 39,700 before TTL.

2014 es350
add ons--
blind spot monitor with rear cross traffic
18" wheels with liquid graphite finish
HID headlamps with LED daytime running lamps
Power rear sunshade
Luxury Package
Hard Disk Drive Navigation system with backup camera etc..
Intuitive Parking Assist
Rain sensing wipers with deicer
Wood and leather trimmed shift **** and steering
Rear Lip Spoiler
Trunk Mat, cargo net, whl locks and rear bumper

plus 910 destination charge.

I'm about 85% sure i'm going to get pre approved financing and make the drive down south tomorrow afternoon to pick it up, UNLESS my local dealer can make me a better offer on the car I spoke to them about that they have on their lot. The car here doesn't have the spoiler or trunk package, and also has the light grey interior (we prefer black, but grey will do also).

SO 39,700 is about 50 bucks more than 12% off final sticker price. Seems good enough for me to make a 2 hour drive to pick it up.

vsk

@lesz,

Thanks for the reply about the extended warranty. We are going to deny it.
This is going to be a stupid question perhaps but the dealer kept mentioning I can buy an extended warranty ONLY during the purchasing of a new car. Reading multiple posts here, I think that is not true. Can you confirm that?
From what I understand, one can buy the extended warranty until the manufacturer's warranty is running (which is 4 yrs, 50K miles for new cars). AM I right?

By the way, I am finalizing the car I mentioned earlier tomorrow for OTD price of $41500. The final price before taxes etc. was $41100, which includes the 910$ destination fee. Hoping that is a good price.
Thanks for all the insight from this forum.

azn103

Yes you can buy it anywhere before your warranty expires. When I had my Mazda 3, I bought an extended warranty with another dealership before the factory warranty expired. It covered a lot including pothole damage. So IF you do get an extended warranty, read all the terms and conditions and get quotes everywhere.

gmanusmc

Be careful though - not sure how Lexus works, but for Honda, after 6 months or 6000 miles the pricing goes up a bit.

Bill G