r6dallas

Hello all,
I have a 2008 es350 with 106k miles and I've been trying to fix vibration issue for a few months now. The car vibrates while in park with and without the AC power on, but its worse with the AC on. The vibration was felt in the sterring wheel and wasnt that bad just enough to be annoying. So I researched and did a few thing such as spark plugs change, mass air flow cleaning, new air filter, a few bottles of fuel injection cleaner but nothing improved the vibrations. In fact I think it got worse. So after looking online I ran across a post about vibrations and motor mounts. This is the post I found.

"http://mechanics.stackexchange.com/quest*ions/4859/2009-toyota-camry-2azfe-idle-v*ibration-remains-after-new-motor-mounts"
"Most likely, one of the engine mounts ar*e 'torqued'. You can try and neutralize *the mounts. Loosen the through bolts of *all mounts several (4-5) turns. Then sta*rt the car, and drive back and forth sev*eral feet (using quick taps on the gas a*nd not just idling) over and over, and l*et it rest at idle a few seconds before *turning off the engine. Now tighten all *mounts being careful not to rock the mot*or, and don't pry or push anything to re*ach the bolts! (This is where swivels co*me in handy)"

I went ahead and did it on my es and wife's 2010 rx350. It took about 30-40 minutes but I took several breaks. Here are a few pic these are from the RX but the process is almost the same on es



Top of engine bay on the passanger side this mount is easy youll need a 14 mm wrench. I noticed the bolts here where very tight when i loosened them but when re tightened the bolts it when in very easily.





This the drivers side youll need a 19 mm wrench. Just turn the wheel all the way to the right to get acess.





This one is right behind the radiator in the front middle of the engine. Its a17 mm





This is on the passanget side behind the wheel. It just like the one on the drivers side. Its a 19mm





This one i belive is only on the rx but i didnt look on the es. I could not get to the through bolt so i just lossened the two 17mm bolts.

Once all of the bolts were lose I turned on the car and moved/drove it 2-4 feet in drive several time in the drive way. Then I stepped on the brake pedal hard while in drive and gave some gas nothing crazy maybe up to 3k rpm and for second or 2. I did the same in reverse. After that I put it in drive and felt for vibrations if I still felt something i would repeat until the vibrations stopped. Once they stopped I didn't put the car in park, I turn off the car while in drive and engaged the emergency brake. At this point i re-torqued all the bolts without move anything. Now both the RX and ES and very smooth while stopped while in drive. This a free fix and it worked great. I hope this helps someone.

ESh

I heard about this and l still don't get it. The bolt that meets the engine block doesn't have to be in there at all, that's how glued are those mouns.

The lower bolts should be there because there you could adjust the angle of the mounts (a little bit) and if you remove those bolts the mount get looose.

r6dallas

I do not remove any of the bolts I just loosen them. It worked great my car is very smooth now.

ESh

I will try the same tonight or tomorrow.

ESh

Completed.
I see no difference, but I will drive it tomorrow and I will report back.

ESh

I drove it today. No difference.

r6dallas

You might have something else going on with your car. How bad is the vibration?

ESh

Not bad at all. I can just feel the engine is working.

r6dallas

I've noticed that when I run 93 octane the engine runs smoother. What do you run?

ESh

95 RON (Europe).