ppouw

I am a new member to this club and would like to get direction/information from other member on how to replace the factory subwoover on 2009 ES-350. I start hearing "rumble/buzzing" few days ago. Thanks.

bsebastian

Sorry, I can't tell you how to replace it but I did get mine replaced by the dealer while it was still under warranty. I have the Mark Levinson package (a nearly $5k upgrade) and the subwoofer was around $480 not including labor. The original subwoofer would rattle like crazy even with a moderate level of base. Even the new one rattled, just not able to handle the deeper notes. I ended up getting a separate subwoofer from Infinity that had a built-in amp and placed it in the trunk. It packs a bit more punch now but the ML package is hugely overrated in my opinion. The standard Harmon Karden system in wife's MB ML350 sounds better.

Blueshark

I did the same as bsebastian in 2009 and never looked back, actually, my ML sub is still working fine, but i cut the wire to put a LOC device to an external amp and infinity kappa perfect 12 inch sub in a sealed box, The wiring is easy.

The sound is way better than the ML package.

Sound quality doen't stop at upgrading the audio, but sound proofing is as important.

I use the spare tire space to install the amp to minimize space and it works well.

bsebastian

Blueshark- were you able to bypass the factory sub? I had Best Buy install the amplified subwoofer but they didn't disconnect the factory sub. I still get some rattling and would like to see how it would sound if I bypass it.

Blueshark

Yes, easily. Simply buy a LOC box, very cheap that has RCA cables coming out. Cut the factory sub wires off and connect them to the proper LOC wires, the LOC is plugged to the new amplifier for the new sub. From that setup, you don't have any more bass control with the ML unit, the control for the sub will be your new amp.

If i happen to sell the car, simply rewire the oem sub.

My car is sound proofed, so no rattles. The sub is in a sealed box so no rattles to the trunk. I notice that the oem sub do rattle because of the poor metal sheet to support the sub.

bsebastian

Actually one installer did suggest beefing up the deck to avoid the rattling. I might have to look into that before disconnecting the sub. What product did use to help with the rattling? Thanks

Blueshark

Regular Dynamat, i use two layers strategically: bottom half of 4 doors, trunk lid, spare tire area. Anywhere where sound can rebound to. I bought a roll from Ebay at half price, actually, your car doesn't need that much because it has reenforcement material already. I have no rattles to the back dash as the sub is not running.

12jimmyjam

Sounds pretty easy. Would this work on the non ML system too?

Blueshark

Yes. To tell the truth, i had the same audio system that i transplant from car to car that i had: a kicker DX amp monobloc and infinity perfect kappa sub, a front stage infinity kappa perfect 5.1 with tweeters and an amp. The installation of these items are straight forward, even with a novice like me. The LOC device is the only new thing for me and it is very easy to install and comprehend.

Everything that i've changed on my car is reversible when the time comes to sell it, so no worry about breaking anything. I can brag that my oem sub have been used only for 2 years for a 08