ES350 DIY transmission fluid change
02-25-13, 01:14 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
ES350 DIY transmission fluid change
I decided to change out my transmission fluid after 140,000 miles, sealed transmission or no. My local Lexus dealership refused to change my fluid so it was left to me, following the excellent instructions given by KBRX330 from the Lexus Owners Club here, http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...13618200824732.
It was easier and quicker than I expected. The first three quarts of old fluid I removed were as black as used engine oil at the start and a bright (but not clear) red when I was finished.
I measured all my fluid out and matched it with fluid in, plus the 200ml as indicated in the instructions. It was easy to do. I simply marked off a plastic gallon milk container into quarts and poured my pan flushings into this container at every step. The flushing steps are precisely two quarts each and that makes it easy to keep track.
The end of it all is that my transmission is happier and I'm happier too. No oil is eternal, and even though Lexus claims their WS transmission fluid is good forever they're not the ones paying to replace my transmission should it fail. This simple flush and refill is cheap peace of mind.
In the interests of having everything in one place here are KBRX330's instructions which I've modified to clear up some points based on my experience.
MATERIALS
3/8" ratchet
torque wrench (not strictly required)
6mm allen socket
24mm socket
10mm socket
short extension
pliers
oil drain pan
1 gallon graduated container
oil waste container (able to accept 12 quarts)
IR thermometer (not strictly required - you need to verify the fluid temperature is 104°F)
funnel with 2' hose attached
4-6" piece of 3/8" clear tubing
12 quarts (one case) of WS ATF (more if you want cleaner results)
transmission drain plug crush washer
transmission fill plug crush washer
STEPS
Make sure the car is level. If you remove the wheel make sure you return the car to a level position before starting this process.
The engine & trans should be completely cold (best if sat overnight). My car sat for nearly four hours in 55° weather. I opened the hood and removed the engine cowlings to facilitate the cool down.
The 24mm trans fill plug is located by removing a small plastic splash panel in the front of the driver's side wheel well, held in place by two 10mm bolts. It's also attached forward of that but it can be moved down to access the fill hole without removing it entirely. The fill plug is stamped WS. Turn the wheel all the way to the left for better access or you can take the wheel off entirely to make it really easy.
Remove the wheel well spash piece exposing the fill plug. Break the plug loose.
Remove the left front underside plastic shield (under the bumper) to gain access to the in and out transmission cooler lines between the transmission and the radiator. The plastic pop connectors holding the shield are removed by prying the center button up from the ring.
Remove the 6mm allen drain/overflow tube plug from bottom of the trans pan. About 1 quart of ATF will drain out.
Replace the drain/overflow tube plug. Snug it but do not torque.
Remove the fill plug and insert the hose/funnel. Add 1 quart of WS ATF leaving the hose in fill hole. You should balance it on the spring or as I did, tape it to a stand to keep it in place.
Go back to the transmission cooler lines. Disconnect the outboard hose by pinching the clamp with pliers and sliding it up the hose. Very little fluid will drain out. The transmission fluid will flush from the radiator side of the connection and not the hose side. I attached a 4" piece of scrap 3/8" hose to direct the fluid into my drain pan.
While watching the cooler line, have a helper start car. Trans fluid will pour out, 2 quarts in about 15 seconds. When air pumps out (the line starts to spit and sputter) shut off the car immmediately.
Add 2 quarts of WS ATF to the fill hole with the funnel and hose.
If you are keeping track of what you removed (recommended), pour the contents of your drain pan into the graduated container, record it, then dump the contents into your waste container.
Repeat pumping out 2 quarts at a time starting car and shutting off quickly until you have pumped 10 quarts through.
You should have a total of 11 quarts out and 11 quarts in (1 drained + 10 flushed).
By 11 quarts the fluid should be coming out fairly clean. The final flush isn't nearly as clear as new transmission fluid, so if you're looking for really clean fluid you'll need more than 12 quarts to continue flushing.
Reconnect the cooler line with the factory clamp.
Add around 1/2 quart WS ATF in the fill hole. Install the fill plug and new crush washer. Snug it but do not torque yet
Start the car and check for leaks.
Cycle trans shift lever through PRNDL 3 times, stopping at each position for a few seconds.
At this point you need to get the transmission fluid up to temperature, between 104 and 113°F (40 - 45°C). After I finished the flushing it took three minutes or so of idling for the temperature of the transmission fluid to reach the required 104° (55° outside temp). I measured the fluid directly, not the pan.
With the car running remove the drain/overflow tube plug and allow fluid to drain until it becomes a trickle. Quickly install the plug with the new crush washer. The amount of fluid that comes out will likely match the extra amount you added in the last filling step. If no fluid comes out you'll need to add more via the fill hole until it does.
Shut off the engine.
Add 200 ml of fluid to the fill hole.
Torque the fill plug to 35 foot lbs.
Torque the pan drain/overflow tube plug to 30 foot lbs.
Start car and test drive until everything is hot and check for leaks.
Replace the plastic underbody and splash panel.
You are done.
Here are some further instructions from Toyota.
The TC I found states to add 200ml back in (about 6.7 oz), here is the last page of the Tc:
TRANSAXLE FLUID LEVEL – TC011-07, August 11, 2007, Page 5 of 5.
5. Check the ATF fluid level.
NOTE:
The fluid temperature MUST be between 104 and 113°F (40 and 45°C) to accurately
check the fluid level.
A. Remove the overflow plug with
the engine idling (A/C OFF).
HINT:
Removing the overflow plug before
reaching fluid check temperature
makes it easier to confirm when fluid
starts coming out at a steady rate.
B. Check that the fluid comes out of the overflow tube.
If fluid does NOT come out, proceed to step 6, “Refill the transaxle’’.
If fluid comes out, wait until the overflow slows to a trickle and proceed to
step 7, “Complete the transaxle fluid level Inspection Procedure’’.
6. Refill the transaxle.
A. Remove the overflow plug and gasket.
B. Connect the transmission fill system pump and hose to the quick disconnect
adapter already connected to the refill hole.
C. Add ATF into the refill hole until ATF flows from the overflow tube.
D. Wait until the overflow slows to a trickle and proceed to the
“Complete the transaxle fluid level Inspection Procedure’’ procedure in step 7.
7. Complete the transaxle fluid level Inspection Procedure.
A. Install the overflow plug with a NEW gasket.
B. Add an additional 200 ml of ATF WS through the refill hole.
C. Stop the engine.
D. Install the refill plug with a NEW gasket.
It was easier and quicker than I expected. The first three quarts of old fluid I removed were as black as used engine oil at the start and a bright (but not clear) red when I was finished.
I measured all my fluid out and matched it with fluid in, plus the 200ml as indicated in the instructions. It was easy to do. I simply marked off a plastic gallon milk container into quarts and poured my pan flushings into this container at every step. The flushing steps are precisely two quarts each and that makes it easy to keep track.
The end of it all is that my transmission is happier and I'm happier too. No oil is eternal, and even though Lexus claims their WS transmission fluid is good forever they're not the ones paying to replace my transmission should it fail. This simple flush and refill is cheap peace of mind.
In the interests of having everything in one place here are KBRX330's instructions which I've modified to clear up some points based on my experience.
MATERIALS
3/8" ratchet
torque wrench (not strictly required)
6mm allen socket
24mm socket
10mm socket
short extension
pliers
oil drain pan
1 gallon graduated container
oil waste container (able to accept 12 quarts)
IR thermometer (not strictly required - you need to verify the fluid temperature is 104°F)
funnel with 2' hose attached
4-6" piece of 3/8" clear tubing
12 quarts (one case) of WS ATF (more if you want cleaner results)
transmission drain plug crush washer
transmission fill plug crush washer
STEPS
Make sure the car is level. If you remove the wheel make sure you return the car to a level position before starting this process.
The engine & trans should be completely cold (best if sat overnight). My car sat for nearly four hours in 55° weather. I opened the hood and removed the engine cowlings to facilitate the cool down.
The 24mm trans fill plug is located by removing a small plastic splash panel in the front of the driver's side wheel well, held in place by two 10mm bolts. It's also attached forward of that but it can be moved down to access the fill hole without removing it entirely. The fill plug is stamped WS. Turn the wheel all the way to the left for better access or you can take the wheel off entirely to make it really easy.
Remove the wheel well spash piece exposing the fill plug. Break the plug loose.
Remove the left front underside plastic shield (under the bumper) to gain access to the in and out transmission cooler lines between the transmission and the radiator. The plastic pop connectors holding the shield are removed by prying the center button up from the ring.
Remove the 6mm allen drain/overflow tube plug from bottom of the trans pan. About 1 quart of ATF will drain out.
Replace the drain/overflow tube plug. Snug it but do not torque.
Remove the fill plug and insert the hose/funnel. Add 1 quart of WS ATF leaving the hose in fill hole. You should balance it on the spring or as I did, tape it to a stand to keep it in place.
Go back to the transmission cooler lines. Disconnect the outboard hose by pinching the clamp with pliers and sliding it up the hose. Very little fluid will drain out. The transmission fluid will flush from the radiator side of the connection and not the hose side. I attached a 4" piece of scrap 3/8" hose to direct the fluid into my drain pan.
While watching the cooler line, have a helper start car. Trans fluid will pour out, 2 quarts in about 15 seconds. When air pumps out (the line starts to spit and sputter) shut off the car immmediately.
Add 2 quarts of WS ATF to the fill hole with the funnel and hose.
If you are keeping track of what you removed (recommended), pour the contents of your drain pan into the graduated container, record it, then dump the contents into your waste container.
Repeat pumping out 2 quarts at a time starting car and shutting off quickly until you have pumped 10 quarts through.
You should have a total of 11 quarts out and 11 quarts in (1 drained + 10 flushed).
By 11 quarts the fluid should be coming out fairly clean. The final flush isn't nearly as clear as new transmission fluid, so if you're looking for really clean fluid you'll need more than 12 quarts to continue flushing.
Reconnect the cooler line with the factory clamp.
Add around 1/2 quart WS ATF in the fill hole. Install the fill plug and new crush washer. Snug it but do not torque yet
Start the car and check for leaks.
Cycle trans shift lever through PRNDL 3 times, stopping at each position for a few seconds.
At this point you need to get the transmission fluid up to temperature, between 104 and 113°F (40 - 45°C). After I finished the flushing it took three minutes or so of idling for the temperature of the transmission fluid to reach the required 104° (55° outside temp). I measured the fluid directly, not the pan.
With the car running remove the drain/overflow tube plug and allow fluid to drain until it becomes a trickle. Quickly install the plug with the new crush washer. The amount of fluid that comes out will likely match the extra amount you added in the last filling step. If no fluid comes out you'll need to add more via the fill hole until it does.
Shut off the engine.
Add 200 ml of fluid to the fill hole.
Torque the fill plug to 35 foot lbs.
Torque the pan drain/overflow tube plug to 30 foot lbs.
Start car and test drive until everything is hot and check for leaks.
Replace the plastic underbody and splash panel.
You are done.
Here are some further instructions from Toyota.
The TC I found states to add 200ml back in (about 6.7 oz), here is the last page of the Tc:
TRANSAXLE FLUID LEVEL – TC011-07, August 11, 2007, Page 5 of 5.
5. Check the ATF fluid level.
NOTE:
The fluid temperature MUST be between 104 and 113°F (40 and 45°C) to accurately
check the fluid level.
A. Remove the overflow plug with
the engine idling (A/C OFF).
HINT:
Removing the overflow plug before
reaching fluid check temperature
makes it easier to confirm when fluid
starts coming out at a steady rate.
B. Check that the fluid comes out of the overflow tube.
If fluid does NOT come out, proceed to step 6, “Refill the transaxle’’.
If fluid comes out, wait until the overflow slows to a trickle and proceed to
step 7, “Complete the transaxle fluid level Inspection Procedure’’.
6. Refill the transaxle.
A. Remove the overflow plug and gasket.
B. Connect the transmission fill system pump and hose to the quick disconnect
adapter already connected to the refill hole.
C. Add ATF into the refill hole until ATF flows from the overflow tube.
D. Wait until the overflow slows to a trickle and proceed to the
“Complete the transaxle fluid level Inspection Procedure’’ procedure in step 7.
7. Complete the transaxle fluid level Inspection Procedure.
A. Install the overflow plug with a NEW gasket.
B. Add an additional 200 ml of ATF WS through the refill hole.
C. Stop the engine.
D. Install the refill plug with a NEW gasket.
Last edited by dreyfus; 02-25-13 at 01:17 PM.
02-25-13, 07:22 PM
#3
Moderator
Thread Starter
02-25-13, 08:30 PM
#4
Any thoughts on dropping the pan.......it would have been interesting to see how much crud was in the pan and how much shwarf was attached to the magnet/s, plus it would have all been cleaned up.
02-26-13, 07:28 AM
#5
Excellent write-up, Dreyfus.
It really ticks me off when dealers/mfgrs talk about 'sealed systems' and 'lifetime fluids'. I've heard of BMW dealers telling customers they never have to get their oil changed ever. It's just stupid, and makes no sense.
All fluids start to break down over time and use given the heat and friction involved. It's a smart idea to do a drain and fill regimen like Dreyfus illustrates here with trans fluid. NEVER let anyone do a machine flush on your car, as those are more likely to knock stuff around that can foul up the systems.
No car should go more than 75k without replacing trans fluid, coolant, brake fluid, and steering fluid, despite what they may tell you. I personally observe shorter intervals than that (45k for brake and steering fluid, 60k for trans fluid as time permits it to be changed) but my mechanic also is able to test fluids in-house to determine whether they should be changed or not.
It really ticks me off when dealers/mfgrs talk about 'sealed systems' and 'lifetime fluids'. I've heard of BMW dealers telling customers they never have to get their oil changed ever. It's just stupid, and makes no sense.
All fluids start to break down over time and use given the heat and friction involved. It's a smart idea to do a drain and fill regimen like Dreyfus illustrates here with trans fluid. NEVER let anyone do a machine flush on your car, as those are more likely to knock stuff around that can foul up the systems.
No car should go more than 75k without replacing trans fluid, coolant, brake fluid, and steering fluid, despite what they may tell you. I personally observe shorter intervals than that (45k for brake and steering fluid, 60k for trans fluid as time permits it to be changed) but my mechanic also is able to test fluids in-house to determine whether they should be changed or not.
02-28-13, 07:10 PM
#7
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Thread Starter
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02-28-13, 07:18 PM
#8
Moderator
Thread Starter
In the past I would have done this but I just didn't want to deal with the extra mess dropping the pan always involves. Whenever I've dropped a pan there has been minimal crud. I've never found anything more than a normal metallic "slime" left in the pan.
03-01-13, 08:12 PM
#10
Moderator
Thread Starter
I've heard that the ride in the current ES350 isn't as good as the first generation's so I'm not likely to jump in there. But I figure I have another five years in this one so I can just skip the current generation.
I'd like my next car to be electric. I'm thinking the Tesla, but I don't think they're quite ready for prime time (or my wallet) just yet. We'll see what the price and market are like in 2018.
So, I really don't know. But yes, I'd be willing to buy another Lexus if it was as good as the one I have now.
04-10-13, 05:35 PM
#11
Driver School Candidate
Thanks for the post and excellent write-up too! Can you please let us know how your transmission holds up after around 15,000 miles?
I owned a BMW with a ZF 6-speed transmission that came with "life time" transmission fluid. The BMW dealer would not change the transmission fluid. I bought the car new and at 90,000 miles I wanted to change the transmission fluid. I posted a question on a BMW forum then and some responses were against changing the transmission fluid as they heard some transmissions would die within a year after the fluid change.
I decided to change the transmission fluid anyway at 90,000 miles. The transmission died within 12,000 miles of the fluid change.
I don't know who makes the transmission for Lexus ES350 and I hope your transmission will last. Please keep us posted. Thank you.
I owned a BMW with a ZF 6-speed transmission that came with "life time" transmission fluid. The BMW dealer would not change the transmission fluid. I bought the car new and at 90,000 miles I wanted to change the transmission fluid. I posted a question on a BMW forum then and some responses were against changing the transmission fluid as they heard some transmissions would die within a year after the fluid change.
I decided to change the transmission fluid anyway at 90,000 miles. The transmission died within 12,000 miles of the fluid change.
I don't know who makes the transmission for Lexus ES350 and I hope your transmission will last. Please keep us posted. Thank you.
04-10-13, 06:05 PM
#12
This reminds me of a story from my old office. Coworker was selling a 1975 Plymouth, car had over 50,000 miles on it with last oil / filter change at around mid ten thousand miles range. He said not to change the oil as it would create problems at that point. We all scoffed but he did sell the car to someone (not in the office). I wonder him being the credit manager had anything with him not changing the oil (cheap).
04-10-13, 06:15 PM
#13
Lets see what the data brings with modern fluids. I would normally change transmission fluid at around 50-60K miles. Doing this keeps the system clean and allows the clutches to function properly. Going up to and over 100K will be an interesting experiment. Usually when the fluid get contaminated after an excessive amount of miles it causes additional wear . When new fluid with new detergents is changed it has a tendency to flush out areas and cause problems with the friction plates. So leave some feedback down the road and let us know how it worked out. Good luck
08-02-13, 07:46 PM
#14
Hey everyone,
I did a tranny fluid change a few months back at the dealer on my '07 ES 350 (About 47K miles). I did it because the service manual recommended every 6 years.
Everything seemed smoother after the change, only had a small amount of slippage for about a week. Things are good, although I feel a slight 'shutter' when I release the gas at speed, mainly higher speeds. Is this something I should be concerned about?
The shutter is quite small, but I feel it in the body of the car, almost like an unbalanced tire would feel. Thanks
I did a tranny fluid change a few months back at the dealer on my '07 ES 350 (About 47K miles). I did it because the service manual recommended every 6 years.
Everything seemed smoother after the change, only had a small amount of slippage for about a week. Things are good, although I feel a slight 'shutter' when I release the gas at speed, mainly higher speeds. Is this something I should be concerned about?
The shutter is quite small, but I feel it in the body of the car, almost like an unbalanced tire would feel. Thanks
08-02-13, 08:21 PM
#15
Moderator
Thread Starter
Hey everyone,
I did a tranny fluid change a few months back at the dealer on my '07 ES 350 (About 47K miles). I did it because the service manual recommended every 6 years.
Everything seemed smoother after the change, only had a small amount of slippage for about a week. Things are good, although I feel a slight 'shutter' when I release the gas at speed, mainly higher speeds. Is this something I should be concerned about?
The shutter is quite small, but I feel it in the body of the car, almost like an unbalanced tire would feel. Thanks
I did a tranny fluid change a few months back at the dealer on my '07 ES 350 (About 47K miles). I did it because the service manual recommended every 6 years.
Everything seemed smoother after the change, only had a small amount of slippage for about a week. Things are good, although I feel a slight 'shutter' when I release the gas at speed, mainly higher speeds. Is this something I should be concerned about?
The shutter is quite small, but I feel it in the body of the car, almost like an unbalanced tire would feel. Thanks