Hard wiring a portable GPS
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Hard wiring a portable GPS
I have a 2009 ES350 w/out navigation and I bought a Garmin GPS. I will probably mount this in the corner of my dash and I want a clean hard wire to my fuse box. I don't want to have dangling wires and plug into my cigarette lighter, having to plug it in and out every time I want to use it.
Has anyone done this before? If so, where do I want to hard wire this to so I have constant power? I also assume I would have to have an inline fuse. If so, what amp fuse would I need. Mind you, I'm not that educated on wiring this, so speak in simple terms.
Has anyone done this before? If so, where do I want to hard wire this to so I have constant power? I also assume I would have to have an inline fuse. If so, what amp fuse would I need. Mind you, I'm not that educated on wiring this, so speak in simple terms.
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I'm now thinking about getting an extra cigarette female socket and wiring that in to a 12v fuse opening/power supply and plugging in the Garmin power cord, leaving it plugged in permanently. I guess I need to find a power supply that turns off with the ignition as I don't want it on the entire time.
Thoughts??
Thoughts??
#3
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My only thought.... Have you checked with Garmin to see if they offer a hard-wire kit? Most manufacturers of radar detectors offer one for those who wish to semi-permanently mount their detectors. Check their web site.
It would be easiest to wire into the existing cig lighter, as it turns off with the engine and is easy to get to. Be sure to add an inline fuse to your wiring--just in case....
We have a Garmin that we bought long before we bought our ES. It's inexpensive and works as well as the ES factory NAV unit, if not better, plus a lifetime upgrade is only $80, while a one-time upgrade to the factory NAV is $169 or so from Sewell Lexus. Obviously, I would heartily recommend a Garmin to those that don't have factory NAV.
It would be easiest to wire into the existing cig lighter, as it turns off with the engine and is easy to get to. Be sure to add an inline fuse to your wiring--just in case....
We have a Garmin that we bought long before we bought our ES. It's inexpensive and works as well as the ES factory NAV unit, if not better, plus a lifetime upgrade is only $80, while a one-time upgrade to the factory NAV is $169 or so from Sewell Lexus. Obviously, I would heartily recommend a Garmin to those that don't have factory NAV.
#4
Assume you're mounting it by the driver's A-pillar ? You can tuck the wire into the space between the dash and the frame to get under the dash. There should be a couple of spaces labeled "ACCY" or cig lighter "CL" that you can plug into.
I'm not sure you have to have an in-line fuse, but it's probably a good idea.
I'm not sure you have to have an in-line fuse, but it's probably a good idea.
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Radio shack sells an adapter that is bare wire on one side and a female cigarette adapter on the other. This has an inline fuse included and as long as it is not too large to fit in the fuse box provides fused protection and you dont have to permanetly modify the GPS power cord.
Never done this in an es350, but it worked great in both an a4 and a6.
Once you are in the fuse box, you can plug into a something that is switched with the ignition. I typically try and find a robust power source that i dont use often. Rear windshield deforster for exmaple, never use this in So fla where i live.
Never done this in an es350, but it worked great in both an a4 and a6.
Once you are in the fuse box, you can plug into a something that is switched with the ignition. I typically try and find a robust power source that i dont use often. Rear windshield deforster for exmaple, never use this in So fla where i live.
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Thanks for the suggestions. If I find an open space in the fuse panel what amp fuse should be used? I assume the same amp as the cigarette lighter? I'm going to visit Radio Shack on the way home and see if they have the plug.
#7
I had my '11 direct wired for my radar detector. My normal garage guy had problems with the mini fuses. Had to go to car stereo shop and they handled it without a problem.
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I got the accessory plug at Radio Shack and I thing I'm going to remove the center console to access the back of the cigarette lighter. There I'll splice on to the red/hot wire and ground somewhere nearby.
Currently, the fuse for the cig lighter is 20amp, and the inline fuse for the new socket is 10amp. Should I replace the 20 amp fuse with a 30amp fuse if I decide to run a radar detector and the GPS at the same time?
Currently, the fuse for the cig lighter is 20amp, and the inline fuse for the new socket is 10amp. Should I replace the 20 amp fuse with a 30amp fuse if I decide to run a radar detector and the GPS at the same time?
Last edited by Tact; 09-20-12 at 05:34 PM.
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Originally Posted by Tact
I got the accessory plug at Radio Shack and I thing I'm going to remove the center console to access the back of the cigarette lighter. There I'll splice on to the red/hot wire and ground somewhere nearby.
Currently, the fuse for the cig lighter is 20amp, and the inline fuse for the new socket is 10amp. Should I replace the 20 amp fuse with a 30amp fuse if I decide to run a radar detector and the GPS at the same time?
Currently, the fuse for the cig lighter is 20amp, and the inline fuse for the new socket is 10amp. Should I replace the 20 amp fuse with a 30amp fuse if I decide to run a radar detector and the GPS at the same time?
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Assume you're mounting it by the driver's A-pillar ? You can tuck the wire into the space between the dash and the frame to get under the dash. There should be a couple of spaces labeled "ACCY" or cig lighter "CL" that you can plug into.
I'm not sure you have to have an in-line fuse, but it's probably a good idea.
I'm not sure you have to have an in-line fuse, but it's probably a good idea.
There is no room in my fuse box to add another circuit. Also, I thought about dropping the fuse box to access the wires but I can't see how you would loosen the box to remove it.
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I guess mt best bet is to access the hot wire going to the cig lighter is to remove the center console and splice on the hot wire there. I still need some idea how I'm going to run the power cable to the left side of my dash without a lot of issues. Any ideas??
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Well, I tapped on to the hot wire coming from the cig lighter/accessory plug. I removed the center console part that surrounds the gear shifter to access the plug. After tapping into the hot wire I attached the negative wire to the metal plate that surrounds the steering wheel shaft that goes through the firewall as a ground.
Then I removed the cover that attaches to the side of the dash, the part that fits against the door when the door is shut, and ran my power cord behind the metal framing. After reattaching the cover the power cord is completely concealed. The only part of the power cord that is visible is where it runs out of the top of the cover and onto the dash, which is only about 5 inches of cord, which is where the GPS is mounted. The other end of the power cord is under the dash and plugged into the new ACC plug. Under the dash everything is zip tied out of sight. The power cord is plugged in permanently and is only powered on when the ignition is on and when plugged up to the GPS.
Then I removed the cover that attaches to the side of the dash, the part that fits against the door when the door is shut, and ran my power cord behind the metal framing. After reattaching the cover the power cord is completely concealed. The only part of the power cord that is visible is where it runs out of the top of the cover and onto the dash, which is only about 5 inches of cord, which is where the GPS is mounted. The other end of the power cord is under the dash and plugged into the new ACC plug. Under the dash everything is zip tied out of sight. The power cord is plugged in permanently and is only powered on when the ignition is on and when plugged up to the GPS.
Last edited by Tact; 09-27-12 at 06:08 PM.
#15
Well, I tapped on to the hot wire coming from the cig lighter/accessory plug. I removed the center console part that surrounds the gear shifter to access the plug. After tapping into the hot wire I attached the negative wire to the metal plate that surrounds the steering wheel shaft that goes through the firewall as a ground.
Then I removed the cover that attaches to the side of the dash, the part that fits against the door when the door is shut, and ran my power cord behind the metal framing. After reattaching the cover the power cord is completely concealed. The only part of the power cord that is visible is where it runs out of the top of the cover and onto the dash, which is only about 5 inches of cord, which is where the GPS is mounted. The other end of the power cord is under the dash and plugged into the new ACC plug. Under the dash everything is zip tied out of sight. The power cord is plugged in permanently and is only powered on when the ignition is on and when plugged up to the GPS.
Then I removed the cover that attaches to the side of the dash, the part that fits against the door when the door is shut, and ran my power cord behind the metal framing. After reattaching the cover the power cord is completely concealed. The only part of the power cord that is visible is where it runs out of the top of the cover and onto the dash, which is only about 5 inches of cord, which is where the GPS is mounted. The other end of the power cord is under the dash and plugged into the new ACC plug. Under the dash everything is zip tied out of sight. The power cord is plugged in permanently and is only powered on when the ignition is on and when plugged up to the GPS.