gnm313

Looks like I am going to have to start over again or get some support off this forum. Tweeter finally came back and asked for $350 in labor because they can't find the aftermarket wiring specifications for the ES350. Basically, the spec is a cheatsheet put together by the aftermarket alarm installers that tells them which wires to pick, resistances to expect, etc. Frankly, I can't believe it doesn't exist for this car. I know people out here are getting after market alarms put in. This is all on top of $200 for the remote start and the SL2 module.

I gave them the solution for the remote start, but they are still hesitant because they don't know what they will find once they start going. I told them that the camry spec was probably identical, but again, I am guessing. The good news is they know the SL2 module works because they have used it now on other keyless vehicles.

Maybe $550 installed isn't outlandish. Just seems like a lot considering that I know it is a 5 wire hook up with 2 relays and 2 diodes. I have to think back, but I think I paid $700 for a dealer alarm/starter 8 years back when I was young and foolish. I guess what is really killing me is that I am letting them build the spec on my car and the next install will be cheaper.

If there are any installers out there that have the spec or know if it matches the camry, I am sure everyone out here would be greatful. Getting this car remote started without giving up the fob is a big plus for us.

350Dave

I still do not see the wisdom of trying to improve upon an already very sophisticated factory alarm system. Is the remote start really that alluring?

gnm313

I have had a remote start on my last 3 cars. I feel it is something I cannot live without. Cools the car in Summer and warms it in Winter. Unless you live somewhere that is a constant 70 degrees, this is a nice feature.

The intent is to leave the factory alarm 100% intact, but add the remote start. No reason to disturb it. Some people also want alarm features that Lexus does not offer, but that is up to them.

350Dave

I guess I will consider myself fortunate to keep my car in a garage, or, carhouse, as Moe



calls it.

1022it

I hope this helps... Courtesy of my.is http://my.is/forums/f63/wiring-info-...rt-etc-236272/


Wiring info for security, remote start, etc!!!!

Audio/Mobile Video


WIRE COLOR POLARITY LOCATION
Battery BLUE/YELLOW (+) RADIO HARNESS
Accesory GRAY (+) RADIO HARNESS
Ground BROWN (-) RADIO HARNESS
Power Antenna BLACK (+) RADIO HARNESS
Amp Turn On WHITE/BLUE (+) RADIO HARNESS
LF Speaker (+) WHITE
THESE WIRES PROVIDE THE LEFT AUDIO SIGNAL TO THE AMPLIFIER.
LF Speaker (-) RED
RF Speaker (+) GREEN
THESE WIRES PROVIDE THE RIGHT AUDIO SIGNAL TO THE AMPLIFIER.
RF Speaker (-) BLACK
Amp Location LOCATED BEHIND RIGHT SIDE OF DASH NEXT TO GLOVEBOX
Radio Security YES


Security


WIRE COLOR POLARITY LOCATION
Battery WHITE & WHITE/RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 1 BLACK/RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter 1 BLACK/WHITE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
All Door Trigger
YOU MUST DIODE ISOLATE BOTH TRIGGERS TO MONITOR ALL DOORS. *SEE DOCUMENTS
LF Latch RED/GREEN (-) AT THE TOP OF THE FUSE BOX/ BODY ECU
RF Latch RED/BLACK (-) AT THE TOP OF THE FUSE BOX/ BODY ECU
LR Latch RED/WHITE (-) AT THE TOP OF THE FUSE BOX/ BODY ECU
RR Latch RED/WHITE (-) AT THE TOP OF THE FUSE BOX/ BODY ECU
Trunk Trigger RED/YELLOW (-) DRIVERS SILL PLATE HARNESS
Hood Trigger BLUE (-) ABOVE THE DRIVERS KICK PANEL IN THE ANTI-THEFT MODULE
Alarm Disarm BLACK/YELLOW (-) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
IF YOU USE THE DISARN OUTPUT FROM THE ALARM IT WILL DISARM THE FACTORY ALARM IF YOU USE THE 3RD IGNITION (-) OUTPUT ON THIS WIRE IT WILL DISARM THE FACTORY ALARM UPON REMOTE START
Parking Lights GREEN (+) DRIVERS SILL PLATE HARNESS
Low Crr Pk Lights RED (-) HEADLIGHT SWITCH


Convenience


WIRE COLOR POLARITY LOCATION
Headlights-Lo RED/BLUE (-) AT VEHICLE LIGHT SWITCH
Wipers-Lo BLUE/WHITE (+) AT THE STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
Wipers-Hi BLUE/RED (+) AT THE STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
Trnk Release BLUE/WHITE (REV) AT THE TOP OF THE FUSE BOX/ BODY ECU
Seat Mem 1 BLUE/ORANGE (-) PIN #20 IN THE BOTTOM CONNECTOR AT THE BODY ECU
Seat Mem 2 BLUE/BLACK (-) PIN #2 IN THE BOTTOM CONNECTOR AT THE BODY ECU

Remote Start

WIRE COLOR POLARITY LOCATION
Battery WHITE & WHITE/RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 1 BLACK/RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 2 BLUE/RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Accessory 1 RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter 1 BLACK/WHITE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Anti-Theft Type TRANSPONDER
Anti-Theft Descript THE KEY SENDS AN RF SIGNAL TO THE BCM MODULE THROUGH AN ANTENNA LOCATED AROUND THE IGNITION CYLINDER
Key Sense BLACK/YELLOW (-) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
IF YOU USE THE DISARN OUTPUT FROM THE ALARM IT WILL DISARM THE FACTORY ALARM IF YOU USE THE 3RD IGNITION (-) OUTPUT ON THIS WIRE IT WILL DISARM THE FACTORY ALARM UPON REMOTE START
Tachometer BLACK (AC) ON THE DRIVERS SIDE FENDER AT THE IGNITER
Speed Sense VIOLET/RED (AC) PIN #17 IN THE E8 CONNECTOR AT THE ECM
Parking Lights GREEN (+) DRIVERS SILL PLATE HARNESS
Low Crr. Pk Lights RED (-) HEADLIGHT SWITCH
Brake Lights GREEN/WHITE (+) AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
Reverse Lights RED/BLACK (+) DRIVERS SILL PLATE HARNESS
Horn GREEN/WHITE (-) AT THE STEERING COLUMN HARNESS


Modules


WIRE LOCATION
Module 1 ECM - ENGINE CONTROL MODULE IS LOCATED BEHIND THE GLOVE BOX
Module 2 BODY ECU - BODY ECU IS LOCATED UNDER THE DRIVERS DASH AND IS A PART OF THE FUSE BOX


[b]Doorlocks/Windows [B/]


WIRE COLOR POLARITY LOCATION
Power Unlock SEE DOOR LOCK DIAGRAM
PowerLock SEE DOOR LOCK DIAGRAM
Child Safety Wire LIGHT GREEN (-) AT SWITCH IN DRIVERS DOOR
Driver Mtr Unlock BLUE/BLACK (REV) AT THE TOP OF THE FUSE BOX/ BODY ECU
Driver Mtr Lock GREEN/YELLOW (REV) AT THE TOP OF THE FUSE BOX/ BODY ECU
Pas Mtr Unlock RED/WHITE (REV) AT THE TOP OF THE FUSE BOX/ BODY ECU

gnm313

I am sure that is exactly what he needed, but he didn't have it. I went and had it installed this morning. Took him 7 hours because he had to find every wire. Remote start working great, though.

Caveat:
Once it is remote started, the factory security "thinks" you are in the car with original fob is with the doors locked, so you can't unlock the car through traditional methods (door handles or original fob). You have to use the new fob to unlock the car when it is remote started. If you are not remote starting, all the traditional methods and original alarm features are still valid and work fine.

Besides the caveat, everything works as you would expect. Car starts remotely and can remain started for either 15 or 25 minutes afterwhich it stops. Have to decide which setting I want.

If you don't have the original fob in your pocket and you get in the car to try to drive away, (you can start the car even if it is unlocked) pushing the brake or putting it in gear kills the engine as you would expect.

unknown2

A guy did it in his Toyota Avalon... He didn't mentioned much information about how it works.. But, he said that he designed a small circuit for that job... All what he have to do is to press the trunk release button for few seconds...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nzPsgOgkjo4

Link for the file (download, mp4 format)