Brake pedal has no air-feed back
05-27-03, 10:09 PM
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Brake pedal has no air-feed back
Thanks, Stevie,
A little bit of focus goes a long way. I took your advice and checked out all the things you suggested. After my mechanic left, the one who didn't know that Lexis was made by Toyota and took a hundred and fifty dollars with him, I got under the car, myself.
With my wife pumping the brakes, and me bleeding them, I found a small drip in the right front brake hose. I had it replaced by a local mechanic shop for $140.00, including the hose. That's not bad, to me.
Now, I have perfect brakes.....it is really nice having brakes.
Now I have a problem with the brake light on the instrument panel not going out. Brake fluid is full, all wheels are fine. The oil light also is on and the oil is full......Just don't get it. Is it a sensor? and do you know anything about the costs?
Thanks, Guys
Valley
A little bit of focus goes a long way. I took your advice and checked out all the things you suggested. After my mechanic left, the one who didn't know that Lexis was made by Toyota and took a hundred and fifty dollars with him, I got under the car, myself.
With my wife pumping the brakes, and me bleeding them, I found a small drip in the right front brake hose. I had it replaced by a local mechanic shop for $140.00, including the hose. That's not bad, to me.
Now, I have perfect brakes.....it is really nice having brakes.
Now I have a problem with the brake light on the instrument panel not going out. Brake fluid is full, all wheels are fine. The oil light also is on and the oil is full......Just don't get it. Is it a sensor? and do you know anything about the costs?
Thanks, Guys
Valley
Last edited by valley; 06-04-03 at 10:20 PM.
05-28-03, 06:46 PM
#2
if you are losing fluid, it has to be going somewhere. It is possible that the master cylinder is drawing fluid into the motor through a vaccum line. I would hope not, if you say the cylinder was just replaced, was it replaced with new or a remanufacturer. The power booster may have overpowered a reman and your problem came back. Have you checked all vacumm lines for moister?
Several things come to mind.
1. Some cars have hidden brake line. I don't remember off hand but if the brake lines running to the rear actually run inside the cabin through the floor you could be leaking under the carpets and not see it. If you can see brake lines under the car then of coarse this would not be the case.
2. The entire system can be pressure tested a section at a time to isolote or pinpoint a leak. This of coarse would have to be done in a qualified shop or specialty brake shop. It may be you have a leak right above an exhaust pipe and the leak is burning off. You say no leak was seen, I assume this was at rest in the driveway/garage after bleeding. If the brakes were applied repeatedly while in the driveway, then a leak must be apparent sooner or later. Have you tried parking on a clean white sheet for an extended period of time. Every hour or so, go start the car and pump the brakes, then shut the car off and go away. Come back again, and do this repeatedly for the next couple of hours. Be sure to check the fluid level before and at the end. If the level changes, it has to be going somewhere. Check the sheet for new spots. This may help to isolate a part of the car to look at.
Even on a 92, the fluid reservoir should have two sections, on for front and one for rear. It may be a container in a container or a division in a rectangular cup. Somehow the two are separated so total brake failure is avoided. Are you losing fluid from both sections or from just one?
keep us posted.
steviej
Several things come to mind.
1. Some cars have hidden brake line. I don't remember off hand but if the brake lines running to the rear actually run inside the cabin through the floor you could be leaking under the carpets and not see it. If you can see brake lines under the car then of coarse this would not be the case.
2. The entire system can be pressure tested a section at a time to isolote or pinpoint a leak. This of coarse would have to be done in a qualified shop or specialty brake shop. It may be you have a leak right above an exhaust pipe and the leak is burning off. You say no leak was seen, I assume this was at rest in the driveway/garage after bleeding. If the brakes were applied repeatedly while in the driveway, then a leak must be apparent sooner or later. Have you tried parking on a clean white sheet for an extended period of time. Every hour or so, go start the car and pump the brakes, then shut the car off and go away. Come back again, and do this repeatedly for the next couple of hours. Be sure to check the fluid level before and at the end. If the level changes, it has to be going somewhere. Check the sheet for new spots. This may help to isolate a part of the car to look at.
Even on a 92, the fluid reservoir should have two sections, on for front and one for rear. It may be a container in a container or a division in a rectangular cup. Somehow the two are separated so total brake failure is avoided. Are you losing fluid from both sections or from just one?
keep us posted.
steviej
05-29-03, 12:35 AM
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Re: Brake pedal has no air-feed back
Originally posted by valley
My 1992 Es300 is beautiful....but after owning it for approx a month, the brakes are gone.
When I touch the pedal, it goes within two inches of the floor. I added fluid and pumped...it was better for an hour. It started pulling when I hit the brake and making a grinding noise. It felt as if one of the front wheels was grabbing. Brake fluid was disappearing, but there was no leak.
I called a recommended mechanic who came to my home. We both got under the car, took off each wheel and checked all pads, calipers, rotors; everything. Everything seemed to be perfect. We then bled all the brakes. For a few miutes I had a pedal....He supposed the brake fluid was being sucked into the motor and burned.
Finally, he replaced the master cylinder, which looked to be new already. When he left, after telling me the brakes were now okay, I knew damn well they were not.
Now the problem is right back where it was. I am afraid to take it on the street. It is unsafe and I know it.
I replace a Power Booster on a '65 T-Bird once. It was positioned on top of the motor at the fire wall and relatively easy, but I hated doing it myself. I have a feeling this might be the problem here. Has anyone else had this problem?
Valley
My 1992 Es300 is beautiful....but after owning it for approx a month, the brakes are gone.
When I touch the pedal, it goes within two inches of the floor. I added fluid and pumped...it was better for an hour. It started pulling when I hit the brake and making a grinding noise. It felt as if one of the front wheels was grabbing. Brake fluid was disappearing, but there was no leak.
I called a recommended mechanic who came to my home. We both got under the car, took off each wheel and checked all pads, calipers, rotors; everything. Everything seemed to be perfect. We then bled all the brakes. For a few miutes I had a pedal....He supposed the brake fluid was being sucked into the motor and burned.
Finally, he replaced the master cylinder, which looked to be new already. When he left, after telling me the brakes were now okay, I knew damn well they were not.
Now the problem is right back where it was. I am afraid to take it on the street. It is unsafe and I know it.
I replace a Power Booster on a '65 T-Bird once. It was positioned on top of the motor at the fire wall and relatively easy, but I hated doing it myself. I have a feeling this might be the problem here. Has anyone else had this problem?
Valley
Thanks Stevie - I didn't even know the brake fluid compartment had two sections. I will do some more checking ... In the mean time, would not having enough fluid cause one or more wheels to grab? The master cylinder was a reman. I will also check for brake lines inside the car or underneath.
Thanks, again.
Valley
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