Radiator Questions
12-30-16, 11:43 AM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Radiator Questions
2003 ES300
Coming into work a cement truck dropped some dingle berries in the roadway and ended up in my radiator. Nice, right?! I have attached pictures. The car did start over heating but I had reached work already. ( I only live 3.5 miles away from work). My coolant reservoir is still full. I have not had an opportunity to drive it again, but am about to in order to get home.
What makes my fan kick on? It looks like the bottom plastic piece is broken on the bottom of the radiator and some damage causing one of the fans to not spin, but i can spin it by hand. I want to do a test so it will kick on. Check Engine light IS on. How long can I make it until I am financially able to get it fixed if I keep it from over heating? I am not car ignorant and have some limited knowledge, but I am curious as to why the reservoir is still full? THANK YOU!
Coming into work a cement truck dropped some dingle berries in the roadway and ended up in my radiator. Nice, right?! I have attached pictures. The car did start over heating but I had reached work already. ( I only live 3.5 miles away from work). My coolant reservoir is still full. I have not had an opportunity to drive it again, but am about to in order to get home.
What makes my fan kick on? It looks like the bottom plastic piece is broken on the bottom of the radiator and some damage causing one of the fans to not spin, but i can spin it by hand. I want to do a test so it will kick on. Check Engine light IS on. How long can I make it until I am financially able to get it fixed if I keep it from over heating? I am not car ignorant and have some limited knowledge, but I am curious as to why the reservoir is still full? THANK YOU!
Last edited by es3002; 12-30-16 at 11:47 AM. Reason: add car year
12-30-16, 12:02 PM
#2
The reservoir is still full because your cooling system is no longer a closed system due to the radiator leak. There is no vacuum (after the car cools down) to pull coolant from the reservoir into the radiator.
Check the fan's connector to make sure they're not damaged.
3.5 miles (assuming no traffic) isn't too far so you might be okay driving it home without major incident. Top off the system with distilled water first.
I would replace the radiator asap. Doesn't have to be OEM if you're in a bind (aftermarket Denso is a good alternative, $60).
Check the fan's connector to make sure they're not damaged.
3.5 miles (assuming no traffic) isn't too far so you might be okay driving it home without major incident. Top off the system with distilled water first.
I would replace the radiator asap. Doesn't have to be OEM if you're in a bind (aftermarket Denso is a good alternative, $60).
12-30-16, 12:08 PM
#3
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
The reservoir is still full because your cooling system is no longer a closed system due to the radiator leak. There is no vacuum (after the car cools down) to pull coolant from the reservoir into the radiator.
Check the fan's connector to make sure they're not damaged.
3.5 miles (assuming no traffic) isn't too far so you might be okay driving it home without major incident. Top off the system with distilled water first.
I would replace the radiator asap. Doesn't have to be OEM if you're in a bind (aftermarket Denso is a good alternative, $60).
Check the fan's connector to make sure they're not damaged.
3.5 miles (assuming no traffic) isn't too far so you might be okay driving it home without major incident. Top off the system with distilled water first.
I would replace the radiator asap. Doesn't have to be OEM if you're in a bind (aftermarket Denso is a good alternative, $60).
12-30-16, 12:35 PM
#5
Lexus Champion
+1 on the above reply. It looks like your AC condenser may be damaged, as well as potentially the radiator. If that's the case you should file an Insurance claim. (Check to see if your AC works)
12-30-16, 12:48 PM
#6
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
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12-30-16, 01:43 PM
#8
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Yes. Exactly. It went off. But as soon as I got home temp gauge was back up and no engine light. Let's also keep in mind it was about 50 out today. Is that normal for an engine light to go off? Does a temp guage rise have to mean it's over heating or could it be something clogged or stuck? My thing is, I don't want to take it somewhere and be told bad information for their profit. I also like to know about the vehicle I'm driving. Thank you all for your patience.
12-30-16, 05:32 PM
#10
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
01-04-17, 11:38 AM
#11
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Engine light still off. Still overheats withing 5 miles, Radiator completely busted in plastic areas. Right fan is unable to spin but left fan spins fine. The ac Condenser is smashed but I was able to pull it forward off of the radiator. Just an update, Solution is obviously getting it fixed. Why would the engine light still be off?
01-05-17, 11:50 AM
#12
Lead Lap
I can see the bottom of the rad is twisted, that took quite a hit.
It's not worthwhile to write the engine off trying to drive it. You just need to pony up and pay for it buddy. used rad's are fine if you're in a bind. It's the AC repair that will hurt more.
It's not worthwhile to write the engine off trying to drive it. You just need to pony up and pay for it buddy. used rad's are fine if you're in a bind. It's the AC repair that will hurt more.
01-05-17, 01:51 PM
#13
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Thank you. I dont have any other means of transportation and no funds, I am a female btw, not that it matters! I appreciate the input. What would be the difference between fully aluminum and the plastic. Why do some have clear tanks on the side?
01-05-17, 03:04 PM
#14
In case it is a short drive, carry some distilled water or pre-diluted coolant (zerex asian, peak global, etc import-rated only). If you let the car overheat several times even if you fill it back and looks normal until your next drive, it might cause damage and lead to blown head gasket. Have seen several folks with blown head gaskets due to overheating lately. This would be a severe financial dent. As for the AC, for now, remove the AC relay or fuse and just use the fan. You do not want to turn on the AC even by accident because it will also lead to compressor damage (minor test is fine).
Another thing not normally thought of. Radiator has AT lines... functions as oem oil cooler. If you have high heat you also know that ATF is not getting cooled enough. So driving it long also means hotter transmission than usual.
Rent an obd scanner at autozone. Keep it for a week. Scan codes, as well as, check the coolant temperature in case you are driving it. Edit: Even if the cel comes and goes, you might be able to check pending codes as it takes a few cycles before it becomes stored.
Another thing not normally thought of. Radiator has AT lines... functions as oem oil cooler. If you have high heat you also know that ATF is not getting cooled enough. So driving it long also means hotter transmission than usual.
Rent an obd scanner at autozone. Keep it for a week. Scan codes, as well as, check the coolant temperature in case you are driving it. Edit: Even if the cel comes and goes, you might be able to check pending codes as it takes a few cycles before it becomes stored.
Last edited by surgeon0; 01-05-17 at 03:44 PM.
01-05-17, 04:17 PM
#15
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
In case it is a short drive, carry some distilled water or pre-diluted coolant (zerex asian, peak global, etc import-rated only). If you let the car overheat several times even if you fill it back and looks normal until your next drive, it might cause damage and lead to blown head gasket. Have seen several folks with blown head gaskets due to overheating lately. This would be a severe financial dent. As for the AC, for now, remove the AC relay or fuse and just use the fan. You do not want to turn on the AC even by accident because it will also lead to compressor damage (minor test is fine).
Another thing not normally thought of. Radiator has AT lines... functions as oem oil cooler. If you have high heat you also know that ATF is not getting cooled enough. So driving it long also means hotter transmission than usual.
Rent an obd scanner at autozone. Keep it for a week. Scan codes, as well as, check the coolant temperature in case you are driving it. Edit: Even if the cel comes and goes, you might be able to check pending codes as it takes a few cycles before it becomes stored.
Another thing not normally thought of. Radiator has AT lines... functions as oem oil cooler. If you have high heat you also know that ATF is not getting cooled enough. So driving it long also means hotter transmission than usual.
Rent an obd scanner at autozone. Keep it for a week. Scan codes, as well as, check the coolant temperature in case you are driving it. Edit: Even if the cel comes and goes, you might be able to check pending codes as it takes a few cycles before it becomes stored.