nkyrental

New to the forum, just purchased a 2003 ES300 with 110,000 for my daughters first car. Getting ready to do some maintenance and wanted some advice. I plan on doing a three empty and fill changes of the transmission fluid, and will change the filter at some point. I am debating whether to do a single refill, then take off the pan and replace the filter, followed by the second and third flush or changing the filter first. Not sure if there is any advantage to doing the first of the three flushes prior to changing out the filter, or changing the filter, then doing the three flush method. Also going to do plugs as well as oil/filter etc. since this car is new to us. In addition the Y-tube needs to be replaced, I've got the Y-tube and the O2 sensors, so that will be an afternoon chore as well soon. Any advice would be appreciated.

ES300TX

At the advice of a member, I attended to changing the timing belt and water pump when I bought the car at 100,000 miles. I would change the plugs at 120,000 along with the 02 sensors.

I definitely like your approach on the transmission fluid. Change it until it's red.

speedkar9

Dropping the transmission pan on the 4ES isn't easy, since the engine mounts have to be loosened up and the engine jacked up to get at the pan bolts.
If the transmission is working fine, I'd change the fluid periodically and skip the filter, especially with such low mileage.

mmatheny

After having the transmission on my 91 ES fail due to doing a flush rather than a drain and filter clean/change, then having to pay over $3k for a transmission rebuild, I will ALWAYS get my filter cleaned/changed regularly!

ES300NZ

I would, drain the gearbox and the final drive. (seperate). then,
remove the auto's pan, replace the filter, seal, and refill both.

New spark plugs. (the back bank is a big job, you'll see).
check rear bank for common oil problem at rear.
replace the PVC valve (trust me, it's worth it), unless it's obviously new.
replace the thermostat.
new coolant
remove the cam belt cover, check the belt, and the cam seals for signs of leak. (if none put it all back)
check the cv boots. all four.
drain the oil. remove the oil plan, clean it (trust me on this one, it matters alot). reinstall it all with a new filter. and refill with the correct oil.
replace the air filter.
top up the window washer fluids
check brake fluid, and power steering fluid.
check that all brake pads are good. check discs for lines and trueness. - replace worn pads if found, if discs are worn or untrue have machined.
visually inspect all flexible brake lines for cracking, if found, replace.


hope that helps. that's my standard service.

nkyrental

Started my work on the daughters car by replacing the Y-tube of the exhaust due to a few small rust holes around the bracket. Took about 4 hours due to the welds breaking on the front bank bolts, then having to drill them out to put in new bolts. Back bank bolts came out easily, resonator bolts were just ground off. Anyway, during this work I noticed the differential does not have a drain. There is a threaded hole for one but it is was not drilled out. Appears the differential and transmission are open to each other for lubrication. No need to loosen motor mounts, there are 2 bolts that will be difficult to remove. That is my next chore, probably Sunday morning. I will do a drain, replace filter, add fluid to correct level. Then in a week or less, do a drain and add new fluid. After this, do a drain every other oil change. Regular oil and filter change also probably during this work Sunday. That will only leave new plugs for another day. Then struts at some point before she gets her full license this summer.