Vibration: Front Lower Control Arms
#20
Originally Posted by 80es300
Where did you order the replacement rim? (This is the 17 rim seen in the pic, right).
I really like those rims and wondering where you got them? used/new and how much
Thanks
I really like those rims and wondering where you got them? used/new and how much
Thanks
Btw, the vibration is still there. I think there was nothing wrong with the wheel I replaced. My mind was so fixated on having a bend that I went along with that theory.
I thought something was wrong with the used replacement rim, but later realized that it had nothing to do with the vibration.
Currently I'm back on the stock 15's to rule out the wheels as the issue. I noticed that the vibration is more pronounced with the heavier 17's. With the smaller and lighter stock wheels, the vibration is much harder to detect, but it's there. It shakes the floor starting at 60mph and then moves into vibrating the steering wheel.
Something weird I noticed. With one 17" wheel on the Driver Front Left and one 15" wheel on the Passenger Front Right, the vibration was going in and out in a rhythmic pattern. It was constant from 60-80mph, but would come and go like a wave with about a 2-3 second interval.
I'm not sure how to figure out if it's a control arm issue or a steering rack problem.
Last edited by Hayk; 08-04-16 at 08:34 PM.
#21
bummer that it is still there. I got the control arms changed because of the vibration but I am not 100% sure if it fixed it all. May be it fixed it but like you said, my mind is always looking for the smallest vibration and so not able to enjoy the car as much
I haven't gone on a long drive after the fix. Will pay more attention next time I go for one
I haven't gone on a long drive after the fix. Will pay more attention next time I go for one
#22
Guys, I'm stumped.
Replaced the front control arms yesterday and the steering wheel is still vibrating.
At this point, I'm confident it's not a wheel balance issue, nor a bent wheel, or a bad tire.
Front struts were rebuilt/replaced two years ago, sway bar is nice and tight, no play in the tie rod ends, ball joints are good, new control arms.
Today I did a little test when the vibration came on at 70mph. I dropped it down into neutral, but the vibration did not change.
One observation I made is that it seems to be related to the engine/transaxle, because I feel it just as much through the gas pedal as I do through the steering column.
Could it be a bad engine mount? Can a bad half shaft produce something like this? What can it be?
p.s.: I used Beck/Arnley to source the control arms from Rock Auto, they also came with ball joints for almost the same price as the Dorman LCA's. They were manufactured in Taiwan and made by TRC. I heard Taiwan has better QC than China, so hopefully they will last.
Couple differences:
Weight: Stock 9.2 lbs vs 7.8lbs TRC (Beck/Arnley)
Rear bushing orientation on the aftermarket units was different, possibly even wrong?
Notice how those little half circle slits are up and down on the old units vs side to side on the new ones.
Attachment 393641
Attachment 393640
Replaced the front control arms yesterday and the steering wheel is still vibrating.
At this point, I'm confident it's not a wheel balance issue, nor a bent wheel, or a bad tire.
Front struts were rebuilt/replaced two years ago, sway bar is nice and tight, no play in the tie rod ends, ball joints are good, new control arms.
Today I did a little test when the vibration came on at 70mph. I dropped it down into neutral, but the vibration did not change.
One observation I made is that it seems to be related to the engine/transaxle, because I feel it just as much through the gas pedal as I do through the steering column.
Could it be a bad engine mount? Can a bad half shaft produce something like this? What can it be?
p.s.: I used Beck/Arnley to source the control arms from Rock Auto, they also came with ball joints for almost the same price as the Dorman LCA's. They were manufactured in Taiwan and made by TRC. I heard Taiwan has better QC than China, so hopefully they will last.
Couple differences:
Weight: Stock 9.2 lbs vs 7.8lbs TRC (Beck/Arnley)
Rear bushing orientation on the aftermarket units was different, possibly even wrong?
Notice how those little half circle slits are up and down on the old units vs side to side on the new ones.
Attachment 393641
Attachment 393640
Last edited by Hayk; 08-18-16 at 04:59 PM.
#23
Could be cv axle driver side. If your trans is fine, its gotta be one of the axle. You checked everything else. Do you have a chance to put this up on a lift or jack all 4 and put in drive?
#24
Originally Posted by surgeon0
Could be cv axle driver side. If your trans is fine, its gotta be one of the axle. You checked everything else. Do you have a chance to put this up on a lift or jack all 4 and put in drive?
I first did it with the wheels on, then with the wheels removed. Same vibration, in fact it was much more pronounced than on the road. I felt it all the way from 30mph+. It would go in and out depending on speed. Most pronounced at 44 or 46mph, without going up to highway speeds.
I can also very faintly hear some kind of a rumble inside the cabin. I feel like it's a bad bearing, but which one?
I scheduled a visit to a mechanic for this Sunday. Will see what they say.
#25
For bearing bad, jack up and then spin the wheels. If you hold the coil spring while spinning it should be coarse. It is a better test without rotor/brake pads in the way. So the caliper should be moved out of way. Or there is a ericthecarguy video showing how to check bad wheel bearing.
But yeah, a trip to mechanic is better.
Edit: Just saw this. Here is speedkar9 post on wheel bearing
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/es-...ml#post9598668
But yeah, a trip to mechanic is better.
Edit: Just saw this. Here is speedkar9 post on wheel bearing
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/es-...ml#post9598668
#26
Originally Posted by surgeon0
For bearing bad, jack up and then spin the wheels. If you hold the coil spring while spinning it should be coarse. It is a better test without rotor/brake pads in the way. So the caliper should be moved out of way. Or there is a ericthecarguy video showing how to check bad wheel bearing.
But yeah, a trip to mechanic is better.
Edit: Just saw this. Here is speedkar9 post on wheel bearing
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/es-...ml#post9598668
But yeah, a trip to mechanic is better.
Edit: Just saw this. Here is speedkar9 post on wheel bearing
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/es-...ml#post9598668
#28
Originally Posted by 80es300
MrBooby, What is the conclusion to the saga
Was the trip to the mechanic any helpful?
Was the trip to the mechanic any helpful?
I've visited two different shops.
First shop suggested that I have a worn out rear engine mount that's translating the vibrations into the cabin. They did a 'brake stand' in the Reverse Gear to show me how much movement there was.
I feel that this is the most likely cause due to the age of the car and the symptoms I've had over the years of owning it. Unfortunately the job is very challenging to do at home.
The second shop did not feel the vibration on the test drive with me, possible because I moved the wheels around. They rebalanced all the tires and suggested that it could be a tire issue.
I feel conflicted about the tires going bad randomly, especially on both sets of wheels. However I'm still testing to see if switching tires around changes anything.
I'm leaning towards the engine mounts.
#30
Wanted to update the thread with some more information for anyone having similar issues.
1. One of my summer wheels is producing a very noticeable vibration. It's the same wheel that had its rim replaced. The sidewall has some damage to it, which I think is the culprit.
2. Rear engine mount is torn and needs to be replaced. Tested the mount myself to verify. You can see the tear in the following shots.
I will be addressing the engine mounts this month. The wheels will have to wait till next year.
1. One of my summer wheels is producing a very noticeable vibration. It's the same wheel that had its rim replaced. The sidewall has some damage to it, which I think is the culprit.
2. Rear engine mount is torn and needs to be replaced. Tested the mount myself to verify. You can see the tear in the following shots.
I will be addressing the engine mounts this month. The wheels will have to wait till next year.
Last edited by Hayk; 10-03-16 at 06:10 AM.