Revived

Extenuating circumstances have (unfortunately) prevented me from starting this vehicle in a while. I'm replacing the battery and would like to know what recommendations you have before attempting to start...and after?

RXGS

iTrader: (2)

Siphon out the old gas and replace with ethanol free gas (if possible) and a quart of marvel mystery oil. Check all the fluids and change when you get a chance. Check the brakes too to make sure they aren't sticking,but not necessary for starting, just daily driving

Oro

I am a fan of MMO and I think that is smart, but I think a quart in a tank of gas is too much; I'd go a pint max in the ES tank. The "standard" dosage is 4oz/10 gallon. A pint per tank would be 2x the standard dosage and OK for clean up. I run 3oz/10 gallons in all tanks in my SUV (1998, 166k miles on it) and it has never run better and there was a dramatic improvement in mpgs, start-up, and power on the very first tank I put this mix in 2 months ago. I have yet to try it on our ES, but I plan to soon. His recommendation on ethanol-free gas is also smart; I have a feeling that is what really hampers my SUV and our ES copes better with it because of it's better engine management system. You can use an app called "pure gas" to find E0 near you.

A to steps to do, I also have a car (V8 Audi) that has been laid up a few years and this is my punch list for getting it back on the road later this summer:

1) Pull plugs, insert 2ozs MMO in each cylinder. let sit overnight. Turn crankshaft with ratchet/socket 180, allow to sit longer. Crank w/starter before re-installing plugs to clear any remaining liquid. Since the back bank of the ES is a PITA to get to, maybe just pull the front and do that bank. It will help and it will be easy to turn with 1/2 the plugs out.

2) de-sulfate battery on battery maintainer and re-charge. May not need replacing.

3) Replace brake fluid. Sitting idle is death to the fluid for that period.

4) Jack each axle and turn wheels by hand to make sure of no brake binding at either caliper (pistons) or floating pins.

5) After starting, and warming it up, I'll shut it down and drain the oil, leaving the old filter. Then fill with a gallon of fresh oil, a gallon of K-1 kerosene, and 1 qt of MMO or ATF (this car has a 10 qt sump). I run this mix for 15 minutes at idle four times, allowing to cool down a few hours or overnight between each run. Then drain it all and install quality Mobil 1 oil (or your choice) and a new filter.

This last step really cleans up engine internals, rings, lifters, rockers, is safe, and works. I have used it on other vehicles with great results. Other than the MMO/ATF component, it was factory recommended by MB for years.

After you get it on the road a few days, you need to:

A) jack it up and look all over the engine bay and underneath for signs of leaks.
B) Run your hand along the back sides and around the valve covers to look for leaks.
C) Examine the PS pump and hoses.
D) Do an AT and PS drain/fill if not done in less than 30k miles; sitting won't make their fluids oxidize as badly as engine oil but that is a good interval none the less.
E) You will likely need to add freon to the A/C since regular circulation is what lubricates the seals and it may have leaked out.

There may be other things, but to me those are a thorough way to make sure you do the best prep you can and then maintenance right away to make sure you miss nothing that likely has crept up.

PFB

Although the advise you got is sound, it may, or may not be practical for you. You could end up going down a very expensive rabbit hole for nothing.

If you have access to tools, a good location where its parked, are mechanically knowledgable, and have the time, than by all means follow the recommendations posted. If however those circumstances are not applicable to you, than just make sure your battery is charged, and start it up.

Let it idle for a few minutes, WITHOUT revving the engine, make sure your brakes are functioning, and take it for an easy drive.

Obviously, you'll need to change your oil as soon as possible, and fix whatever may be wrong with it afterwords.

Don't worry, it will Start and be fine.

Phil

Revived

Thanks all. Great insight and recommendations!

Aron9000

I'd siphon out the old gas and put in fresh. Also follow that procedure the other poster recommended where you take the spark plugs out and lubricate the cylinder bores, the rings may be rusted to the cylinder walls.

If you aren't mechanically inclined, I'd have the car flat bedded(not towed, in case the brakes are frozen) to a mechanic.

Keep in mind you might need to replace the tires as well if they developed flat spots while sitting. This will feel like an out of balance tire, ie vibration, sometimes it goes away if you drive the car around a few miles and you're okay.