BY5260

I replaced the front pads several months ago. I recently replaced the rear pads. While doing the rear, I accidently loosened the nut holding the brake line. Fluid ran out and I closed it quickly. I finished the brake job and noticed the pedal would go to the floor. After a couple of days, I decided to completely bleed the brakes. I obtained new fluid and started with the rear passenger. I tried to drain it with the key "on" but no fluid would run. I enlisted my wife to help. She slowly pushed the peddle, I'd close the valve, she'd release and we'd do it again. Eventually, I had clear fresh fluid running out. Obviously I kept the reservoir filled. I notice that even pumping new fluid all the way from the master cylinder, I still had air bubbles visible through the clear tube I was using. I checked to insure the clear tube was a tight fit. It was. I then did each wheel and I never did get the air bubbles out of the system. I had new/clear fluid pumping out but there was a lot of air bubbles. I thought it possibly was entering at the point I had the tube attached so I applied very thick wheel bearing grease around it to stop any air from entering that way. Still a lot of air in the tube. The pedal will go about half the distance before really stopping the car. If I pump it a time or two it seems to be shorter stroke. I'm concerned the ABS isn't working correct. Shouldn't it pump fluid when I started by slightly pushing on the pedal? Where is all the other air coming from? I used a bright light and if I just barely open it, a small air bubble forms inside the tube. Suggestions?

Gabagule

Make sure the brake pedal is pumped a few times and held before loosening the bleeder screws. When the pedal drops all the way to the floor that's when you re-tighten the bleeder screw.
You mentioned the pedal firmness increasing after a few pumps when driving. That's a good indicator of a seized brake caliper slide pin. Unless the master cylinder was emptied while bleeding the calipers will usually take 3-5 sequences.

Oro

If the technique is confusing you, a method you can try is "gravity bleeding." Google it for details.

Basically, open all screws and keep the MC full. It will take a while but it is pretty foolproof as long as you keep an eye on the MC periodically.

LeX2K

As long as you are not introducing air during the bleeding procedure getting air out is very simple although a bit time consuming. On person to press/release the pedal the other to open/close the bleeders. Flexible hose in a jar of fluid (vacuum line is perfect) make sure the reservoir never becomes empty.

Maybe you did not get a good seal from the hose on the bleeder.

BY5260

I appreciate all the comments. I'm telling you, this really has me confused. I did pump the brakes, closed the bleeder before the pedal was released, and did this many times. You'd be amazed at the amount of air that was still present when I was doing the 4th wheel. It honestly looked like air in an aquarium hose. I may pull a wheel and post a short video. You'll be amazed a the air bubbles in the clear tube. I was confident I had a tight/good seal with the hose on the bleeder screw. I even tried using a brake bleeding tool that creates vacuum. When the bleeder screw was closed, with suction from the tool present, there was no bubbles in the tube with brake fluid in it. The second I opened the bleeder screw, the bubbles started. So I'm pretty sure I had a tight seal on the bleeder screw. I'm very confused by this. I've bleed brake systems before and never had this problem. I'll try to post a video so you can see. I don't understand "why" the abs pump didn't start pumping fluid when the peddle was slightly pressed. I understood from reading it should do that. I had to have my wife slowly depress the pedal to get fluid flowing into the catch bottle. I also kept the MC full at all times. The brakes work on the car they just seem "mushy" for a car with good brakes on it.

pauloil

put you clear well sealed tube into a jar with brake fluid in it. get a friend to pump the pedal and watch the fluid go up in the jar and out of you clear tube. that is what my friend and I did and we had no problems. feel the brake pedal with the car OFF.

mmatheny

But make sure you keep the reservoir full, otherwise you will start pumping air back into the lines!

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

Are you sure it's not air coming in from the thread of the bleeder bolt? Wrap the threads with Teflon and see if that's the source. No need to open the valve that much either.

DRACO A5OG

Plus 1 on keeping the dump bottle above the bleeder and not opening the valve too much or using teflon or di-electric grease to insure no leaks out the valve when open.

OP, unfortunately you will need to do the whole system, starting from the passenger side rear. Take your time do not rush this.

Also if you do have air in the ABS system, find a safe empty lot with gravel and slam on the brake while in motion several times, this will help push the any air out of the system as the ABS system will function better on gravel.

Bleed again, that should take care of it.

NOTE: place a block behind the pedal, You do not want the pedal to go to the floor or you may end up damaging the MC.

TikimES330

What is the brake bleed seguence for a ES330?

Oro

No different than any other car, and no need to engage in thread necrophilia to ask.

A shame we don't have enough active, interested moderators.

Start with the furthest from the reservoir and work inward. Google it and get a good 8mm wrench, some tubing, a catch bottle and a friend. Then go to work!

TikimES330

Thank you Oro!

pauloil

get a 1/4 ID 3/8 OD silicon tube to bleed with. it's my newest cool thing when bleeding brake systems.

speedkar9

Here's how its done:


Since the ES330 has ABS you should drive around a bit, engage the ABS, and rebleed to get all the air out of the system.

TikimES330

Thanks a lot Guys!!