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ES330 Altenator and/or AC Compressor Issue

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Old 01-10-16, 08:49 PM
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andygol13
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Default ES330 Altenator and/or AC Compressor Issue

Several things going on here.I'll describe details in hopes of getting some great advice. I think I lost all of the freon from a bad repair/replacement job of some parts. I started losing cold air a few months ago. Next, I heard some more squealing when I turned on the air. A belt has seemed to squeak/squeal when starting in colder weather for 10-30 seconds. Next, the same squealing would start when I turn on the defrost. I found out that the AC Compressor comes on when using defrost. Now, I hear a bit of a squealing sounds like driving on the Hwy today. My car needed a jump. Once I got it started, I had lots of dash warning lights on - battery, check engine, air bag, etc. The gauges would turn off and on. The GPS map would turn on and off. If I turned the headlights on, the car would almost stop and the engine seemed to drag. I got home 60 miles later and the car wouldn't start. I put on a battery charger, and it started but I heard a squealing sounds again with nothing on, and it seemed like something was burning.

I've been up and don this thread to try to understand if this was first an AC compressor issue that turned into a alternator issue.

Please chime in especially if you have expert advice. I'm considering buying used and new or refurbished AC compressor and alternator tomorrow.

Thanks!
Old 01-10-16, 09:32 PM
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808mcv20l
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First things first, my knowledge comes from my 1MZ-FE experience, yours might be slightly different but mostly the same.

You are right that the Alternator and compressor are related.

On these V6 engines the Alternator and compressor share a common drive belt. The other drive belt only runs the power steering pump.

The Squeak/Squeal usually indicates a loose/ improperly tensioned belt or worn belt.

What was replaced when the AC was repaired? leaky AC components will leave an oily greenish residue from the PAG oil used to lubricate the components.

Does the AC system still have pressure in it? You can do a simple test by unscrewing the "Low" side AC service port and pressing the valve, you should hear a hissing sound like when you let out the air in tires.

If the system does indeed have pressure, I I would check the belt for proper tension and see if there are cracks. If the belt is squeaking you can test if the belt is worn by dripping some water on the inside of the belts while the car is running, if the noise goes away the belt is worn.
Old 01-11-16, 05:28 AM
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andygol13
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I now know what do regarding the squealing belt. I know both the AC compressor and alternator share that belt. My car was in an accident and a freon leak was found in the front near the radiator by using dye in the freon. I've heard a grinding sound when turning the AC months ago, and similar when i turn on the defrost. I've been told the defrost uses the AC compressor.

Can a bad AC compressor go bad due to losing all freon, and can that cause my alternator to go bad by putting too much tension on the belt if it starts to lock up? There was a grinding sound and my car immediately has drag on the engine when it's on. From what I've been reading, it looks like a bad AC compressor can put tension on a belt which could cause alternator issues. I will ask the repair shop to pay for the replacement if this is the case which I think it could be based upon what I've read.
Old 01-11-16, 08:51 AM
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mmatheny
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Is your AC compressor locked up? IF you have lost Freon, there is a low pressure switch that keeps the compressor from coming on with low Freon to make sure you don't burn up the compressor. SO - I'd check the belt first. Then make sure that if the compressor is engaging, it is turning! Could be a locked up compressor causing the alternator to not rotate fast enough to charge.
Old 01-11-16, 11:13 AM
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andygol13
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The belt is turning and looks to be in good condition. Is there a chance that the AC compressor has been locking up when I turn on the defrost causing the stress on alternator leading to it's failure?
Old 01-11-16, 11:51 AM
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Check to see if the center portion of the pulley is turning - that's the part that is attached to the compressor shaft. AC always comes on with defrost - removes the humidity from the inside of the windshield.
Old 01-11-16, 12:03 PM
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andygol13
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Do you have a link to where I can see a photo/diagram of it? I'm not very knowledgeable on this.
Old 01-11-16, 12:11 PM
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I don't but there will be some expert on here that can help! I looked for videos on how an AC clutch works, but without either holding one or seeing one in action, it is hard to explain. But once you understand, it will be clear!


EDIT: Hmmm, just thought of something - your clutch could be slipping causing the AC to fail also.
Old 01-11-16, 06:09 PM
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what is the battery voltage?
Old 01-11-16, 06:24 PM
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14V with the help of a battery maintainer. It slowly lowers as I run the car with lights and other power items on. Just had the battery tested late today and advised it is in excellent condition. I have confirmed I need to changed the alternator. Now, I need help determine if the AC compressor is shot, and more importantly if the leaking freon caused the AC compressor to lock up at times putting stress on the alternator causing it to fail. There was a grinding sound when I turned my AC and it dragged on the engine a few months ago and I had similar issues when the defrost was turned on. Now, there is no sound. Once auto person said the freon may be completely out causing the AC compressor not to start, and that might be the reason I don't hear any grinding noise when turning it on.

Please continue to provide feedback especially if you're an expert on my situation.

Thanks!
Old 01-11-16, 07:11 PM
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LeX2K
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You need to remove the alternator belt and see if the A/C compressor pulley spins freely and doesn't make any noise. But if the compressor was making bad noises it would be best to just replace it.
Old 01-11-16, 07:40 PM
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If it were my car I'd change out the compressor especially with the feedback you just mentioned about the noises.

Obviously if the freon leaked out the air wouldn't be cold, that would be a first indicator to me. At a certain point if enough refrigerant leaked out, the Compressor clutch would no longer engage, so idk how you would have burnt out the compressor if all the freon leaked out.

Did Autozone/similar test your alternator and give you an idea if it's bad or not?
If you have a scan tool or OBD ELM dongle you can use an app on your smartphone to get a voltage reading when the car is running to give you an idea of the condition of the Alternator.

As for a replacement Compressor, I'd only buy a Denso one, (Denso Aftermarket) sells them for much cheaper than from your dealer and is the same OEM part w/o the Toyota part #.

It's gonna be quite costly if you had to pay someone to replace the compressor and refill the refrigerant, especially if you still have a leak somewhere.

I bought a manifold gauge set and robinair vaccuum off amazon somewhere in the neighborhood of $200. I also needed an adapter nozzle to fit the R134A cans I used.

I replaced the compressor on my Dad's 2001 Honda odyssey van (Denso compressors come with oil pre-installed) replaced all O-Rings. evac'ed the system for 30mins checked for leaks (needle held a negative reading) good to go and recharged the system.

It's been about 1 year since I've done the work and the AC is still holding up fine.

There's lots of videos on Youtube on recharging your own AC, but idk how mechanically inclined you are and just might have to bite the bullet and pay someone to get it done.

BTW, just thought of this, but did you entertain the idea that the Alternator might be the one that's bad? I would assume that since both are on the same serpentine belt either one could be the cause.

Does the noise only come on when you turn the AC or Defroster on? If so it's likely a compressor issue. You didn't mention if your AC is working or not? Does the Air get Cold?

Last edited by 808mcv20l; 01-11-16 at 07:44 PM.
Old 01-11-16, 08:25 PM
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andygol13
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Autozone did test it and the alternator is shot. I'm thinking of starting with that. The freon has a leak where it connects to the condenser, and I'm fairly confident it's all gone. I don't hear a noise with the defrost or AC on. Last time it was warm in MN the AC would not get cold with a high of 9 degrees today. I'm going to ask the repair shop that didn't fix the damage I had from an accident to fix and freon leak and replace the AC compressor. Sounds like I would not have had an issue with it if there was no leak.

I'm still trying to determine if the AC compressor could have damaged the alternator when it was grinding and possible putting too much tension on the belt. If possible, I'm going to also ask the repair shop to replace it.

Thanks for the feedback!
Old 01-12-16, 11:38 AM
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mmatheny
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WARNING! Do NOT add any oil if you replace the compressor. There is oil already in the new compressor and oil in the R-134A. IF you add too much oil, you are shot. It is almost impossible to get all the oil out of the system - believe me, I screwed up an AC on a '95 Dodge Avenger and my mechanic let me know about it (he is a close friend!)
Old 01-12-16, 11:48 AM
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I'm replacing the alternator today and bringing the car into the repair shop tomorrow for them to fix the freon leak. I'm hoping my AC compressor is not shot. Please provide any feedback on how I can test it before taking the car home. keep in mind our temps in MN are in the zero range this week. I need advice on what to do if if is shot and they don't replace it. I recently read there's some oil that flows with the freon to lubricate the compressor. With all freon gone, does that mean the compressor is damaged?


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