CF01

I'll be doing the valve cover gaskets on my 2003 ES300 soon, as they are leaking pretty good. About to order parts and wanted to make sure that I'm getting the right stuff as well as covering some extras that I should probably take care of while I'm doing the job since this is an older car with 165,000 miles. This will be my first attempt at something like this, although I will have some help from someone who has done this job on a the 1MZ before.

- Valve Cover Gasket Kit - FelPro - VS50588R
- Plenum Gasket to Intake Manifold - Lexus - 1717620010
- Plenum Gasket to Rear Air Valve- Lexus - 1711620010
- Plenum Gasket to Front Air Valve - Lexus - 1712720010
- Throttle Body Gasket - Lexus - 2227120040
- EGR Gasket - FelPro - 72898
- Spark Plugs - Denso - SK20R11
- PCV Valve - Lexus - 1220420040
- FIPG - Toyota - 0029500103
- Long Life Coolant - Toyota - 002721LLAC01

What is the correct part number for the valve cover bolts if I wanted new ones?

How many EGR gaskets do I need?

Any gaskets I should get that are not on my list?

What parts should I use FIPG on besides the crevices around the valve cover?

As preventive maintenance, should I replace any oxygen/air fuel ratio sensors or VVT Solenoids, or can they all be reached later if I need to replace them without having to remove a bunch of parts to get to them? If so, what specific ones?



Also, big thank you to speedkar9 for his excellent videos and forum threads!

uberEFtune

I would replace the spark plugs, and fuel filter(need fuel line wrench) while the upper intake manifold is off.
DO NOT replace random gaskets that are not causing problems!!!!

As for the valve cover gaskets:
-I used a felpro kit that comes with the sparkplug tube seals.
- pry back the little tabs that "hold in" the tube seals. I used a large socket to press the new seals into the valve cover. BE CARE FULL they tear really easy
- Use a dab of rtv in the corners of the humps where the cam shafts are and also where there are little inserts in the cylinder head. If you look closely you will see little half circle plugs. Rtv a thin coat over them.
-I also used an upper intake manifold gasket from advance auto for $28. I didn't need an intake kit just the one gasket
-you can re use the bolts

artbuc

[QUOTE=uberEFtune;9296690you can re use the bolts[/QUOTE]

Not a good suggestion, IMO. These bolts have crush wave washers which are not designed for re-use. Some people have success with adding a couple washers to avoid bottoming out and snapping but why do all of that work and cheap out on the most important component? Also, I would not touch the fuel pump unless you have reason to. Never heard of one needing to be replaced. If you try, chances are very good you will twist off a nut or break a line.

JetsonES

My only .02 is just replace everything that is recommended especially on any and all labor intensive jobs. These things have a way of coming back to bite.you in the ***.when you try to cut corners. Money cones and goes, once time is gons,.it's gon!e.

CF01

Anyone know the part number for those gasket cover bolts? I still can't find it. Was hoping to get that in with an online order so I don't have to pay the extra inflated dealer price.

Also looking for the part number for the coolant by-pass hose under the intake manifold as mentioned in Speedkar9's thread as a recommended replacement while back there. Not sure I'll do this one, but if it's cheap enough I might.

Oro

Not sure on that, but a suggestion. If you can, leave the assembled, torqued-down valve covers overnight or longer if you can before finishing the job. Come back the next day and re-torque them. Some gaskets will take after brief period and need re-adjusting soon. No so easy to check on this set-up.

uberEFtune

Its only a valve cover the bolts do not need to be that tight.

The Felpro gasket is different than the stock Lexus gasket. It has 2 extra ribs on the sealing edge that help it seal better. I believe that the ribs make the gasket taller too. So I re used the bolts and snugged them down with a 1/4" ratchet wrench to a quarter turn. Just don't go ape ***** and tighten them too much.

If you use the stock Lexus gaskets then by all means get the original bolts too.

speedkar9

I dont think you need so many gaskets. I didn't think the 2003 with drive by wire throttle had an EGR valve either.

On the 4th gen ES you can remove the throttle body and intake plenum as one assembly, as in my spark plug video:


I think the bolt part number is 90901-19026 according to this site:

http://www.lexussouthatlantaparts.co...008010288.html

Make sure you torque it with a torque wrench and not just the quarter-turn method to ensure all bolts are at the same torque.

Oro

+1, this is what I was trying to get at above. Even though "snug" is all that is needed, unless you have a REALLY sensitive, experienced hand with your wrenches and torque (I do), a sensitive torque wrench and getting them even all around is critical to not having to go back later because of leaks.

And even though I do have an educated hand, I use a torque wrench on valve cover and oil/transmission pan bolts (among other critical things). Way too sensitive to errors to trust to feel even if you think you know better.

And if you can, again I stress let it sit a day or more then check again after the "set" is in. I rebuilt a transmission this past summer and I did this on the pan bolts and 80% of the bolts needed a few more pounds after 24 hours. And it does make a difference when you are talking about 8/10/12 ft/lbs on pan and VC bolts.