hoopes999

anyone know how much play these dog bone mounts should have. I have an obvious mount problem because I have a tone of engine movement and hard 1-2 shifts, clunking ect. I had my front mount replaced and nothing changed, I replaced the dog bone about a week ago with a cheap one (westar) and it literally cracked with in one day! so I put my old one back on. I do see cracks around the rim of it so i'm pretty sure it needs to be replaced as well. I dont think there is anyway around not going OEM with this part. I could only see one side of the rear bushing due to the location it is ( you should see where they stuck this Fing thing) and it looked fine but its still suspect. What I'm asking is can a dog bone mount cause harsh shifting and banging clunking. When I watch it as someone else is reving and shifting into drive , rev , ect, it does have a decent amount of movement. thank you

JetsonES

You could always do the 3m windshield sealant trick to fill in the voids in the mount. Might increase nvh a little bit but that sucker won't move after that.

hoopes999

lol, hell yeah I'm gonna try it, Will let you know how it works..thank you. What is the name of the product ? Just 3m Windshield repair?

JetsonES

3m window weld

http://importnut.net/motormount.htm


Please follow up, I'm interested to see how it impacts nvh.

tradosauru

I used the window weld treatment on an engine motor mount that is notoriously known to fail on the Ford Freestyle. After 3 years it is still working great. I believe it is about $20 for a tube.

JetsonES

Did it make any difference in vibration or harshness?

tradosauru

No. But it is a concern. I'm not sure I would fill in all the motor mounts with Window Weld. lol

JetsonES

Yes, just poorly designed ones. I did full urethane mounts in my old mr2 turbo and it mast definitely raised the nvh factor, not that I cared because I knew what I was getting into and you don't expect comfort from a car like that. Damn it I miss that car!

hoopes999

Do you guys know what mount is usually responsible for causing a hard 1-2 shift and clunking on downshifts

surgeon0

Front (hydraulic) and Rear (rubber insulator). You can also test this by holding the brake, put into gear, and raise. Notice front move more in D and rear more in R. Of course dogbone (torque mount) gets weak over time.

Those are the two primary mounts. Others are secondary.