acarapella

Hello all,

At about 132,000 miles, the check engine light, with traction control and vehicle stability control lights, Came on for the first time. I pulled the code P0333 and then shut it off to see if it would come back. For a few weeks, it did, but it is come back progressively more often since.

It seems that whenThe car sits overnight, it comes on in the morning. Sometimes right on start, sometimes within the 1st mile. If I drive enough that day, it'll shut itself off.

I'm aware that this is a knock sensor, but I am unsure which one, and I'm on sure it's simply replacing it will fix the problem. I would really like to hear from some people that have dealt with P0333 on a 3.3 L Toyota or Lexus.

Things are a little complicated as my inspection on my car is due on Wednesday, October 1, and it will automatically fail with an engine light on.

That being said, I really appreciate the help

JetsonES

You can always buy an elm 327 Bluetooth adapter ($10usd) and clear the codes just before your inspection in case you can't get it repaired in time.

acarapella

That doesn't work in NY. The car has to be driven over 50 miles after a reset to pass inspection. Either way, I went when it was off and passed. So pressure is off until 10/2016. BUT I would really like to hear from folks that have dealt with this to discuss the actual issue and soliton as I don't like driving a vehicle that thinks less that 100% it self

JetsonES

P0333 is knock sensor 2. I could see how it could be intermittent depending on temperature, how you are driving the car, the gas currently in the tank or possible corrosion. The process to get to it requires removing the entire intake manifold and looks to be a real pain, the sensor is around $100 and I would probably replace both while you have the engine taken apart that far. The only other component in this is the ecm and I would think you would be having other issues if it was the ecm. Another possibility is a clogged fuel filter but I would think this would cause other issues as well. You might want try running high grade gas if you are not already or adding an octane booster when you fill up to reduce the possibility of knock, many common solvents function as octane boosters and are much cheaper than the commercial products available. I have attached a pdf of the replacement procedure so you can see what needs to be done.

By the way, I'm glad you were able to pass your inspection, I've been in that situation before and the pressure stinks.

acarapella

Wow thanks ! I had no idea it was that far in depth. I know the plenum had to come off but not the intake manifold.

When I have done the plugs I have pulled back and tied off the intake tubing and throttle body so I didn't have the drain the coolant (throttle body has colant in it) can I do that with this job?

Also, in my past I have pulled the fuel pump fuse and let the car run it self out of what's left in the lines to depressurize the fuel system. Is that ok here?

Lastly, I am looking at at least $200 for the two sensors and the harness. That's a lot right now. How long can I safely drive the car with this issue? The light often comes on in the am and off by the time I get home.

I did notice that when the light first comes on, if I don't shut off and restart the car, it won't go into overdrive.

Normally I would be all over this but I am strapped for time and cash

acarapella

I also better mention that this is for th 3mz in the solara, not the 1mz in the es300. I prefer the es330 knowledge here

JetsonES

Yeah, that was a heck of a place to decide to install sensitive electronics. Saw the procedure and said "oh damn, that sucks". I would think pulling the fuse would be ok to minimize the fuel in the lines. The cold issue makes me think it's a continuity issue as knock should increase with temperature. So, going by that reasoning it should be safe to drive. One would think the ecm would retard timing once it senses the issue to preserve the engine, also it would probably add more fuel, I believe your car would drop in miles per gallon while the ecm sees this state. If the fuel filter were clogged I think you would get codes for both sensors. I don't know about the coolant, you will probably lose some in the process and have to top it off at the very least.

acarapella

Well if the car is struggling with the temperature now, wait until February. Last year, the temperature only got above freezing for two hours in February. Two hours in the whole month. I remember sitting out on my porch with my face in the sun for an hour and a half when it got up to 26° but there was no wind and it was sunny. I am talking Fahrenheit by the way.

All that being said, do you think it's okto hold back the intake with wire like I did for the spark plug job?

JetsonES

Two hours in a month!?!? I don't understand how people live like that, it gets down to the 30's and my whole body goes haywire, skin dries and cracks, joints stiffen up and once I am cold soaked I can't shake it for a long time.

Holding the intake with wire should be fine as long as it is secure, wouldn't want to gouge out a gasket mating surface by accident.

acarapella

You really do adjust to it… And it all becomes relative. When it's gray and 5°F, you'll find yourself wearing just a hoodie and jeans and enjoying when it gets up to 25 and there is sun. I lived in South Florida for a while, and if it got below 65, I was on record so I onl I lived in South Florida for a while, and if it got below 65, I was unreconciably chilled.

That being said, thanks for the advice with the car. It's on the back burner, as our Honda minivan may be needing an engine. This is certainly been a tough season in life when it comes to car repairs

acarapella

I forgot to ask: the intake manifold gasket… Can it be reused if I'm clean and handle it with care

JetsonES

Probably could be reused in a pinch but at around $40 for the part I would go for a new one. I would hate to do all that work and then have to redo it due to something like an air leak, I would beat myself up over that for a while.

Sorry to hear of all your bad automotive luck lately, I just got over that situation myself and it broke me pretty badly.

acarapella

Napa (who is normally way low) said $90. And rock auto has me at $149 for 2
Sensors, $60 for harness. Awful project!

And my van (odyssey) is in rough shape. Not good. Advice: sienna. The ones we could afford weren't as nice as the Hondas for the same money but clearly would have been the better
Choice.

JetsonES

Thanks for the advice. A minivan is probably the next automotive purchase as they are just the most practical choice for a family with young children.

acarapella

Unless you have the money to buy a brand-new one, I would suggest a used sienna over anything. Ideally with the 3mz. If you do get a Honda Odyssey, the newer the better if you want to avoid major transmission problems, but, exl/touring models as they burn oil badly. So, odysseys newer than 2007-ish with cloth seats. If I was buying one today, I'd be looking for a Chevy venture from a salt free state, under $3000. I find minivans as a whole, regardless of make, to be an unreliable vehicle and Subject to mistreatment by their intended demographic. That being said, buy brand new and take care of it if you can afford $30,000-45,000 or buy used and pay cash or dramatically underspend monthly payments so you can afford repairs