Mr_Mollari

I did quite a bit of back searching in the general maint section, and it seems that the 90915-20004 "V8" filter will work with our V6 engines. Just wanted to make sure from someone running one that the application is sound and functional.

I switched from dino to M1 5W-30 with a M1 filter 2K mi ago, and am going to be changing the oil/filter before a road trip in the next few weeks (get some of the gunk out of there). Have heard that this OEM filter is a-ok performance-wise, and possibly superior to the M1 in some ways. TIA.

Luc

The oil filter threadings are more than likely the same across the models, but if larger oil filters are used, compensation of an extra 1/2-qt of oil will be needed. Here is a Filter Comparison between the Toyota/Lexus USA made (089..), Japan made (909..), and Mobil 1. I'm sticking to the OEM Japan-made.

flipside909

Why are you using 5w30? That's a little to thin for California climates. 10w30 is best year round.

Mr_Mollari

I have just switched to M1, so maybe a little thinner is good for initial "cleaning". I will most likely switch to 10w30 in a month or two (as it heats up), but there isn't too much of a difference between those two oils, and my engine is still fairly "newish" (47K mi) The smaller the spread, the better for the oil (generally), so 10w30 is going in soon.

flipside909

Initial cleaning? Ummm yeah sure.

Mr_Mollari

It's about as plausible as saying M1 5W-30 is too thin for california climates. Are you going to argue that switching from dino to synthetic doesn't clean out any previous oil deposits? If so, you've never manually changed the oil 1K after the switch and sent in your oil for analysis.

There is little difference between 5w30 and 10w30 M1's except for below 0º C outdoor and above 200º C oil temps. Major viscosities are practically the same. Just a little better to use 10w30 if you'll be seeing hot desert driving or stop and go on hot days when oil temps might run high, mainly due to the reduced spread of the oil.


Mobil 1 5W-30
cSt @ 40º C____56
cSt @ 100º C____10
Viscosity Index, ASTM D 2270 ____167
Pour Point, ºC, ASTM D 97____-45
Flash Point, ºC, ASTM D 92____224
HTHS Viscosity, mPa·s @ 150ºC ASTM D 4683____3.08

Mobil 1 10W-30
cSt @ 40º C____62
cSt @ 100º C____10.0
Viscosity Index, ASTM D 2270____147
Pour Point, ºC, ASTM D 97____-45
Flash Point, ºC, ASTM D 92____244
HTHS Viscosity, mPa·s @ 150ºC ASTM D 4683____3.17

Just for fun, here's Quaker State's full synthetic 5w30

SAE Grade 5W-30
Flash, °C(°F)____227(440)
Pour, °C(°F)____-45(-49)
Viscosity
@ 40°C, cSt____56.8
@ 100°C, cSt____10.50
Viscosity Index____177

My point is, most synthetic oils are alike, and unless someone with a V8 runs SAE 10w for 5K mi, as long as one changes the oil and filter on a regular basis, and drives moderately normal, there is not much of a difference between similar oil spreads. I will avoid discussing oil filters, since that's where major differences lie. BobIsTheOilGuy is fun stuff!

flipside909

No i'm not gonna argue with you. I drive more miles than the average SoCal driver and switching to synthetic and changing it at a regular basis is kind of out of the question for my pockets and really pointless especially if you change it at a regular interval. Yeah i'm glad you're one of the few out there who have taken your oil samples to a lab to get it tested. I laugh everytime I see a story like that posted on other forums...and people are always unsatisfied with the result because they find alot more carbon, hydrogen or whatever remnance of elements that are left over by certain oils. I find it silly people go to the extent of extending their oil change intervals (i.e. Amsoil claims) doing so. My 3-4k mile oil and filter change method has not failed me yet...nor has it failed any of the cars that have been or are currently in our household. There are several cars in our household that have gone way over 150K to 250k miles without an engine overhall and have never had engine troubles. Now seriously, is it worth it to spend all that extra few bucks a quart for synthetic, when you get the same result on conventional oil with regular chanes and most likely sell the car later in the long run? So you saved a a microscopic micron on your cylinder walls of engine. Big deal. Are you gonna tear your engine apart after you are about to part with it to see if you got any excess wear since it was brand new? I highly doubt it.

Mr_Mollari

You may have misinterpreted my response, I was just bringing up facts for discussion. I find the tone of your recent response unusual for someone who moderates a forum. I hope you didn't take any offense, because my purpose was not to antagonize anyone.

Oil sample analyses are subject to a lot of different possibilities. There could be a small coolant leak. A new hose could have been installed, change in gasoline, etc. My mentioning of oil sample analyses was only to show that a synthetic usually has more active agents designed to reduce deposits as compared to a dino. That's all. We all know what can happen if you pop synthetic into some 200K+ mi vehicles. There are plenty of dino oils with differing degrees of cleaning agents. Common knowledge.

On the subject of Amsoil, one can easily drive 5K on it with mostly highway driving. This has been proven over and over again. Not too much oil breakdown, it's a good quality synthetic.

I was also pointing out the difference between a 5w30 and 10w30 in response to you saying that 5w30 is too thin. A 5w oil is only thinner than a 10w oil at startup. Once the oil warms up, the different additives in it help as the range extends through to 30w. It is true that as the oil reaches high temperatures, these additives break down, thus generally causing oil failure more rapidly in a wide spread multigrade. And the #1 ingredient in synthetic oil? oil. it's just a specific chain of hydrocarbons 'manually' assembled, thus making it synthetic. Nothing too fancy.

Now, I have no desire to get into a "huge" oil debate, because if you couldn't tell by my examples of synthetic oils, I agree with you. There is not enough of a difference between oils if changed on a regular basis. My preference for going with synthetic over dino is just that, a preference. Maybe I have more disposable income to spend on synthetic oil. Your preference is to use regular oil and change it as often as needed. That's fine. I also laugh at people that send in every oil change for analysis. When I sent in mine from before/after on my Audi, I did it out of curiousity. That's my nature. People do what they want, that's life!

So don't forget...I agree with you! Regular oil + 3K change + high % of highway driving = no problems. I was genuinely surprised by your response. I'm all for moving on past this thread, agreed?

flipside909

No worries! I didn't take offense to anything you said. Gotta love the several directions context of written English language.

As for the 5w30 being too thin...yes i'm aware of that viscosity at startup. A 10 is more preferable in our warmer climates of 32ºF and above...since we rarely see 30 degree temps unless we're in the latter part of fall into winter...or live in higher elevations.