VicSWFL

Greetings Fellow ES Enthusiasts:

I'm about to do the first oil change since acquiring my gently used 2003 ES300 with 90K miles.

The car is up on ramps and I did a bit of a double take when viewing the drain plug (see attached photo). It appears that either there is a brass washer between the plug and the pan or this washer is in fact not brass but some kind of seal (perhaps copper). I have an OEM gasket for the replacement. Can anyone tell me what I'm seeing before I "pull the plug"?

Thanks,

Vic
Fort Myers, Florida

DRACO A5OG

For my year it is a fiber clad metal crush washer from the dealer.

Take caution on torque value. It is not 36ft lb but more like 18 ft lbs. At 18 if she weeps tighten a little more but do not over tighten.

LeX2K

Nothing wrong with a copper or aluminum crush washer, but best to use the factory part. You are supposed to replace it every oil change but I use them for 4-5 changes with no issues.

VicSWFL

Thanks Lexus 2000 and Draco,

I pulled the plug and what looked like a brass washer was, I believe, an overtorqued OEM seal (see photo). I torqued the plug and new seal to 18 ft/lbs and it felt plenty tight. I've never felt like theres a place in any garage for someone nicknamed "Kong", although I think he tightened my drain plug and oil filter on the last change. Past changes by prior owner were done every 3,000 miles with non-synthetic oil and Mighty (American made) filters. I used Mobil 1 full synthetic and a Mighty filter.

If anyone knows a trick to removing the oil filter without making a mess I'd be most appreciative to learn the technique.

Happy Lexus motoring,

Vic
Fort Myers, Florida

pauloil

if you don't want a mess, one person on this site waits overnight with the car still up on ramps, and all the oil drains into the sump. I've been able to wait a few hrs. and have found this true.

DRACO A5OG

Yeah, that trick is a hit and miss. I tried both ways. It does allow the car to cool down so you don't burned on the manifold. But I am impatient so I just go for it :-P

But what I found was to quickly tilt the filter so it will not spill as much. I really hate how the filter mount was designed. so moronic.

Congrats

Oro

If you don't have a dealer handy, NAPA will have the correct size/type washer. I got several a few weeks ago for I think $1.60/ea. They have the the exact OE fitment info (size and construction) and can match it. I had a leaking copper crush one I used previously, also (not reused; leaked anyway). No more copper crush for me; also had one leak and ruin a transmission. !! The Napa guy said it was an aluminum composite center with fiber cladding. Looked like the one pic'd above but different color fiber.

As to the filter, two ideas:

1) I do the sump first, replace the plug and move the pan over to an area just left (looking down on the filter) of the filter. Remove it quickly and let drain. Then I take a paper towel and wipe the catch pan beneath the filter and the lip of the plastic panel it drains off of. Little mess now that I know the trick.

2) Getting the filter off: a) It REALLY helps not to over-tighten them. Contact, then 1/2 to 3/4 turn and no more. b) This is the only filter wrench that works easily. With this type, then a 3/8" ratchet and extension, it breaks easily w/o a lot of hassle like with other wrench types.

Not the exact one I use, but this style:

http://www.walmart.com/ip/GEARWRENCH...ingMethod=p13n

surgeon0

I have this type, 3 claw http://www.walmart.com/ip/GEARWRENCH...ingMethod=p13n

808mcv20l

Can I ask why you mentioned 18FT LBs? just looked at the factory service manual and it mentions the drain plug is 33FT LBs.

I tightened to 29 FT LBs on my Hondas, so that's what I did on my mom's 99 Camry V6.

pauloil

it is about 30 ft lb. see:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...e-setting.html

DRACO A5OG

Yes, Haynes also states 36 ft/lbs but you will see what happens when you do that. I asked the service tech at Toyota and they told me 18ft/lbs and tighten as needed or I will destroy the washer and create a leak.

BDSL

I can't believe a simple drain plug gasket question has 11 posts....

propcop

#12
Take a Phillips screwdriver or more correctly a small punch, and hammer it into the lowest point of the oil filter, remove it quickly then loosen the oil filter a little bit and all the oil will come out the hole you just made. Much less of a mess. IMO

KLF

[raising hand] That would be me. Works great, but you do need to be patient and plan ahead.

My son used to work at a Sears Auto Center, primarily doing oil changes. He tried every single filter wrench made and felt the 3-claw type was the best and worked universally in just about every vehicle. That's all I ever use. The strap type can crush into the filter and rip it open, then you have a huge mess. Never use a wrench to put the new filter on, hand tight, 3/4 turn once the gasket makes contact is plenty.

mitmaks

I like to remove oil filter while engine is still warm, seems to be able to remove it easier while its warm.
To prevent from burning myself I put on a welders glove and just loosen it without burning myself.