GavinR

Ok so I'm totally stumped and i don't know what to do. Soi here's my story. Every time it rained my battery light would go on, if i revved the engine it would go off until i braked too long. It was obvious my battery wasn't charging. Then after a day of rain the problem continued but as long as the engine was revving over 2000rpm it seemed to charge fine. Anyway one morning it wouldn't start and i figured i needed a new alternator. I went to the auto parts store bought a new one installed it. They tested the old one it was bad. But the battery light would stay on but when i revved the engine or had the lights and a/c on it would go off they tested the battery at advanced auto said my battery needed to be charged but also that the contraption said it was putting out high . Anyway a couple days later i brought it in to be charged they charged it the next day i had to jump the car in the morning let it run for fifteen minutes turned it off had to jump it again a couple hours later and half an hour later the car died. I jumped it and it died immediately. In closer inspection the battery was swollen So i bought a brand new battery the light was still on so i just left it in the driveway and after a few hours it died. So I've replaced the alternator the battery and the battery terminal connections. What is wrong? Why won't this new alternator charge my battery? I've already sunk more money into this than i can afford but i really can't afford to not have my car. If anyone can help i would really appreciate it.
Thank you

ES300NZ

ok, ignore everything that's happened. and everything you've replaced.

Charging in cars atleast is fairly simple. If the alternator is turning, it 'can' charge, and if it's provided with some current to turn it on, it probably will charge (or output). There are 3 wires to it, and one out.

One wire is the windings exciter, (input current)
One is the light (earth),
One is the on switch.
The big is the output.

If the car is charging, the voltage at idle will be 12.5-13.8volts. If it falls outside that range the alternator is in someway damaged, OR the earth connection to the motor is damaged. (earth strap).

Just because you have a new alternator fitted, doesn't mean it's functioning correctly, or at all.

The battery light, is tripped by low voltage, or non charging (I forget which), so, if it's on, then the alternator isn't ok.

GavinR

So probably (hopefully) even though its new alternator it's no good and i need to exchange it?

ES300NZ

ok, I see the mistake you've made. You can't solve this issue by asking for advice on the internet and then not doing basic problem solving yourself. You need to do what I suggested, check the voltage at idle.

(I say that as a reality check, not to burn you).

JDMSteven

Not to hijack this thread and the EXACT same thing is happening to me. Here's my stats

New alternator (last week)(Duralast) and battery (7 months, had it recharged and tested good by Walmart) (Everstart)

At idle with the lights off, A/C off, Radio off: 12.5+ Volts
At idle with lights and radio on: 12.5ish
At idle with A/C, Radio, and Lights on: Below 11. After a few mins the battery light comes on, radio may stop, lights dim.

Redid the wiring on the terminals as well. I kind of want to blame it on the blower motor but that's probably just any large power pull.

The fun part is that I got the car last month.

ES300NZ

the alternator they supplied you is delivering say '80amps, you need 100amps', it's obviously charging, but it can't supply enough power for the car. Basically, you got ripped off by someone's ignorance.

JDMSteven

Wow I didn't know that. My auto zone and advance both said 80amps is recommended. Since I still have the receipt I believe I can swap it out for a 100amp but I do not know if they will carry any that are a direct fit.

What year is your ES? Do you have a 100amp?

JDMSteven

Here is a link to my problems

JDMSteven

Just got back from AutoZone and the machine keeps saying bad regulator. 13.5 volts at idle with no ac radio or lights. Less than 12 with accessories.

ES300NZ

hey that's neat

GavinR

Ok so they tested the alternator again it was bad, i replaced it the light off everything was fine for a week. Then
It rained two days ago the battery light went on but would go out when i revved the engine, then i turned the car off to put air in and needed a jump. Everything was fine until i stopped to get gas today and it wouldn't start. Needed a jump i realized when the air conditioning is on it won't start up again. In the way home the car almost died in traffic had to put it in neutral and Rev the engine again. Then went it to autozone charged the battery abs tested the alternator at idle is putting out 12.9 volts. Need a new one again and they're being difficult about it now. .. is there anything could be killing my alternator or am just lucking out with bad remanufactured alternator s?
thanks

ES300NZ

as long as the alternator is getting power to turn it on, and enough power to excite the windings it will function correctly. That's the car side of things.

Issues of half or part charging are almost always the alternator itself, or a belt slipping badly. (which you would hear).

Perhaps it's time for a full refund, and a new supplier.

DRACO A5OG

Check your connectors. Mine were cracked on the negative side and created a week continuity and would not fully charge the battery. $5.00 Swapped, no more issues with re-charging.Swapped both to make sure. Just remember not to over tighten the connectors, that is how mine cracked.

jenga

I would second checking all your connections. If it mainly happens when it is raining / humid, you have corrosion somewhere in your system either at the connection points or in the cable itself. I have had battery cable that looked good but was cracked and corroded inside when I flexed it.

It's a cheap check and if you replace them, they really don't cost that much compared to the aggravation.