2002 ES300 steering wheel shaking...
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
2002 ES300 steering wheel shaking...
Hello all, I test drove a clean 02 ES 300 yesterday (looking for a clean, reliable car around $10k+/-). In my area, it's hard to find clean cars for this price. I could go with something new'ish like a Fit or an Accent, but I would prefer a used Lexus. In fact, I'm driving a 180k 99 ES 300 right now that has been solid as a rock over the last 85k.
It was owned by a grandma who died somewhat suddenly about 1.5 years ago. Her daughter drove the car from 84k-to-its current 94.5k.
The mother had it serviced at the Lexus of Portland dealer since new. I asked for a printout copy of maintenance receipts before my test drive and she had them there in the car. The copy wasn't a full printout with detailed service as some of it was cutoff or abbreviated. But, it was there and had a list of all service from 0-84k miles.
The car was listed as excellent condition. Always garaged (from original owner; was sitting in driveway when I drove it). I asked to see the car do a cold-start up. It was definitely cold, as it had a few cob webs around the rear wheel arches. The car fired right up. The owner has a new Altima and Ford Escape, so they don't really drive this car.
Drove the car through town, along with slightly higher speed back-roads at 45-55mph. I thought I noticed a slight vibration through the steering wheel.
Then I hopped onto the freeway. Not really when accelerating, but when I let off the gas there was a very noticeable shaking of the steering wheel. It was almost shocking to me. I noticed the rear tires were noticeably less worn than the fronts, as if they hadn't been rotated in the last 10k+ miles.
So what's the most likely culprit behind the steering wheel shaking at freeway speeds? More so when dropping the throttle?
One thing of note, when looking through the service records there was a "vibration in steering wheel" noted at 12k miles. Again, the records were cut short from the dealer printout and it was too late to get ahold of the service department.
I really, really like the car and made an offer if the vibration was remedied (thinking rotor or wheel balancing or...something cheap enough).
Anyone have ideas?
It was owned by a grandma who died somewhat suddenly about 1.5 years ago. Her daughter drove the car from 84k-to-its current 94.5k.
The mother had it serviced at the Lexus of Portland dealer since new. I asked for a printout copy of maintenance receipts before my test drive and she had them there in the car. The copy wasn't a full printout with detailed service as some of it was cutoff or abbreviated. But, it was there and had a list of all service from 0-84k miles.
The car was listed as excellent condition. Always garaged (from original owner; was sitting in driveway when I drove it). I asked to see the car do a cold-start up. It was definitely cold, as it had a few cob webs around the rear wheel arches. The car fired right up. The owner has a new Altima and Ford Escape, so they don't really drive this car.
Drove the car through town, along with slightly higher speed back-roads at 45-55mph. I thought I noticed a slight vibration through the steering wheel.
Then I hopped onto the freeway. Not really when accelerating, but when I let off the gas there was a very noticeable shaking of the steering wheel. It was almost shocking to me. I noticed the rear tires were noticeably less worn than the fronts, as if they hadn't been rotated in the last 10k+ miles.
So what's the most likely culprit behind the steering wheel shaking at freeway speeds? More so when dropping the throttle?
One thing of note, when looking through the service records there was a "vibration in steering wheel" noted at 12k miles. Again, the records were cut short from the dealer printout and it was too late to get ahold of the service department.
I really, really like the car and made an offer if the vibration was remedied (thinking rotor or wheel balancing or...something cheap enough).
Anyone have ideas?
#2
Lead Lap
Vibration in the steering wheel is generally one (or all three), or three things.
What I'm saying is; I would not let that put me off, unless. ... unless the car has had a front crash, then I would wonder about the state of the front chassis.
Whenever I buy a car I usually find it needs some work, if you can pay a service to check the car out for you it's almost always worth it. I always give the buyer the report whether it's good or bad so we can openly talk about a price rather than haggling over it like adversaries, but I'm a kiwi so we're like that.
My last car we took it to a mechanic before buying it and he gave us his report with the seller standing there. I'm about as experienced with cars as the mechanic would be, but he's a fresh set of eyes that does it every day.
- The tyre (or tyres) at the front. uneven wear, flat spots, separated belts, bulge in side wall.
- The wheel; lost weight, buckled, dented, a hop (often on the inside)
- The suspension: bent arms, or mounting points, bad wheel bearings, bad/worn bushings,
What I'm saying is; I would not let that put me off, unless. ... unless the car has had a front crash, then I would wonder about the state of the front chassis.
Whenever I buy a car I usually find it needs some work, if you can pay a service to check the car out for you it's almost always worth it. I always give the buyer the report whether it's good or bad so we can openly talk about a price rather than haggling over it like adversaries, but I'm a kiwi so we're like that.
My last car we took it to a mechanic before buying it and he gave us his report with the seller standing there. I'm about as experienced with cars as the mechanic would be, but he's a fresh set of eyes that does it every day.
#3
Driver School Candidate
I just purchased cpo 2017 GS350 for 32000, I know its not an F model however there really is not that much difference between 2016 - 2019 That is why I purchased 2017, everyone thinks its new since 2020 looks the same. look for a 2016-2017 and save money.
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