RXGS

iTrader: (2)

I'm changing the front and rear swaybar endlinks and rear bushings on my 2004 ES330 and I was wondering if they still used that weird hex key design on this model like they had on the 3rdgen? I know on the GS it was just a bolt, but I havent seen any DIY on swaybar endlinks on the 4thgen ES. Any input would be great thanks

Hayk

iTrader: (1)

Best way to find out is to google the replacement part number. Get it from Sewell's part catalog. That's what I would do.

You could also try calling a local Lexus parts dept.

RXGS

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the reply, I bought some off rock auto (front and back) and they look to not have the hex design, but looking on there now it seems they do. Tom what I have read most aftermarket ones replace the hex design because of how troublesome they can be. I plan on using a vice grip and a large wrench and socket to get them off. I was looking at doing the front swaybar bushings as well, but my main issue there is accessibity. For the back, mevotech makes polyurathane rear away bar bushings, so I figured I'd try them out. I'm not expecting any differnce in cornering, but I'll have the piece of mind of replacw aged bushings.

Oro

I replaced the struts on our 02 this past summer and they had the hex head on the front endlink. I would imagine your 04 is the same. I did not find it a big issue to hold them steady and remove them, and re-install.

By all means, skip the front bushings. I was an idiot - since I'd bought them, I went ahead and did it even though when I eyeballed it I knew it would be difficult. Serious PITA (accessibility) and ultimately unnecessary - 225k miles and they were perfectly serviceable with modest wear (so were all the endlinks btw). Rear sway bar bushings were the same condition, though going to PU would be nice so I can see doing the rear for that reason.

RXGS

iTrader: (2)

Ya there is an occasional rattling over bumps only from the left side and with 77k miles and 30k on two new OEM front struts and mounts (done by the dealer and PO, I m 95% sure it's the endlinks as they are fairly loose. Looking at them, the bushings looked fine, but the rears look easy enough to do. I know on my GS they say it's possible to take off the links without taking off the tires, is that possible on the ES?

Oro

We have kind weather and roads out here so parts last a lot longer than back east.

You could not get the front off w/the tire still on. I don't recall on the rear exactly where they connected. I do recall that with the rear tires off, getting at the bushings and links was very simple and quick.

RXGS

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Oro for the great input as usual.

lostape45

+1 on what Oro said. You can do it while the tires are still on in the back but its tight with your tools.

plovell

Best way to get the rears off is with a sawsall. With a good metal blade it takes two minutes.

RXGS

iTrader: (2)

Ended up doing just the rears, one side wasn't bad , broke the nut loose, then hammered in the 5mm allen socket into the thread, then used a wrench to loosen it, rust wasn't bad but it made it more difficult than it had to be. The other side I stripped the bottom bolt, so had to remove the rubber boot and used a vice grip to grip the nut and that allowed me to use the 14mm socket. Removed the little noise I had in the back so money well spent

lostape45

Glad to hear that fixed it

hypervish

What brand sway bar links did you buy? How are they in comparison to OEM?

I bought a set of MOOG for the rear of my RX, and need to buy a set for the front as well. Thinking of Deeza.
The MOOG don't seem bad, but they were both made in different places and have a different feel to the "ball".

RXGS

iTrader: (2)

Fronts were MOOGs and the rears were off ebay, they cost $17 and look exactly like the MOOGs. Now im not usually for ebay sutf, but I needed the parts quickly and didn't want to make 2 orders from Rock Auto, so i figured I'll by the ebay ones. Like I said, they are completely identical to the MOOGs and felt the same. In regards to the factory ones, its hard to say since the OEM ones were so far gone. There was a lot of play and the car only has 77k miles. Now that I've replaced front and back, the ride is virtually silent, no rattling whatsoever, and the cornering SEEMS somewhat more stable. It could just be a placebo, but at least I think it rolls a little less. Also, before when going over bumps, I thought i felt the actual steering wheel vibrating a lttle bit, and that feeling is now gone. I can only assume the worn links were causing a vibration to resonate through the wheel. Basically, it was worth doing to just get rid of the noise and it cost less than $60. If i have to replace the rears again in a year, well thats ok, now that the hex designed links are off, replacing these can be changed in minutes.

hypervish

Cool, good to know! I might just order some MOOGs for the front.

RXGS

iTrader: (2)

I mean I've had really good luck with everything else MOOG, for $40 and the warranty I'm happy with them.