Chuckinnj

I sort of "inherited" a 97 ES300 with 207k. on the odo from a family member who did not maintain the car for the last eight years. I want to use the car as a beater for my son while he away at college for the next three years and he should put about 6000 miles on it per year.
Here is my situation: The car has a nice interior, a bad AC compressor and the body is in fair condition with no rust.... BUT the engine runs well with no codes, however the engine has not been maintained since 70k miles when the timing belt was changed. The engine is sluged up and has a fair amount of oxidation on the exterior.
Need your opinion: Do I replace the timing belt, seals and water pump along with hoses, plugs, etc OR do I just drive it until it dies (timing belt jumps or breaks, engine fails or trans fails, etc)
I do a lot of mechanical work on American muscle cars and I have a lift in my garage along with a large tool collection BUT I am not familiar with these Lexus engines and I really don't want to put any more than $400 and 10 hours labor into the car. I already replaced the cabin filter fuel filter, air filter, oil filter and belts. I also replaced the AC bearing to see if the compressor would quiet down but it did not work.

So what do the Lexus guys think I should do with this Hoopty???
A: Keep it as is and Drive it until it dies.
B: Do the timing belt/ water pump change and hope nothing else fails.

I appreciate any opinions that will help me decide which way to go.

lexusdod

I have a es300 with 244,000 miles and just love the car. Just spent the past week pulling the motor to replace gaskets, seals, timing belt, plugs, engine mounts, cv joints etc, etc. Spent about 800.00 on parts and a few tools for the job. Pulled the motor it just cause that seemed easier to me to reach everything and clean all the sluge off.
I guess it depends on what you like. I love the car so i want to put a little in it when i get the chance to keep it running, if it goes kuput, then ill get another motor or trans to put in it. I want to see if i can go 500k miles or more.
Its really not that difficult to change the timing belt, seals, and water pump if you already know how to mechanic on cars. Assuming 97 is simular to the 94. Iam sure you could do that much within your budget. I didnt change the water pump on mine though. Wait till it goes. I would recomend timing belt, cam seal and crank seal. Just my thoughts

speedkar9

Can you elaborate, does the engine have sludge inside due to oil gelling? Once a common problem with these engines, you basically need to tear it down to clean it up, or clean what you can from the oil pan and valve covers. Change out the PCV valve too.

A timing belt / water-pump kit can be had for ~$200 from RockAuto, I say go for it since your mechanically inclined and are way overdue for a timing belt service.

Chuckinnj

I will go for the Aisin kit if I decide to do the TB/WP replacement...... Should be less than $300 for everything with the seals.

Hayk

iTrader: (1)

Do the Aisin Kit, as its very affordable. The sludge is a huge concern on these cars, so please elaborate on what you saw. Pictures of the front valve cover removed would be best.

Chuckinnj

Thanks for the advice! Very helpful with fast replies!!
I just placed my order with Rocky for the Aisin TB kit, all new coolant hoses, all 3 seals, two belts, thermostat and a new radiator cap. I used my Dodge discount code and the total order came out to $270 with shipping (less the anti freeze that I will pick up locally at Yota)
I am NOT looking forward to replacing the inside cam seal (tight area) but everything else looks straight forward to do as long as I don't snap a bolt off of this oxidized motor......... A "light" Kroil overnight soak on the bolts should get everything ready for the big show. I guesstimate doing this TB/Pump job for the first time should take about 5-6 hours if everything goes well.
Any other advice will be helpful and greatly appreciated.

speedkar9

PCV valve, spark plugs and maybe valve cover gaskets.

Chuckinnj

Do I have to remove the valve cover in order to replace the left or inside cam seal?
I already replaced the PVC valve and grommet, fuel filter and air filter.

BDSL

Actually, sludge is not a concern as long as oil was changed at the specified oil change interval. My 97 ES300 had 470k km (280k miles) and it didn't have that issue.

Hayk

iTrader: (1)

Correct, but he said the engine is sludged up and wasn't maintained in a long time.

OP, you do not need to remove the valve cover to get to the camshaft seals. I got mine done, during a timing belt change.

Chuckinnj

You are correct! ......... However this car was NOT properly maintained and Cheap Dino oil was most likely used. I have used Amsoil synthetic in all my original owned vehicles and my engines are clean after 200k miles.
To stay on topic I will have to live with the sludge because it is not worth it (to me) to tear into this engine with this high mileage...... Like I said in my OP, I want to get a few years out of it for my son to use while he is away at college and if it lasts for the next few years then it will become my winter beater.
If the engine pukes I may pull it and pop in a JY motor ..... For now I just want to get some extra mileage out if it, by doing some much needed maintenance on it like the TB.

OceanView

you could always seafoam the engine. Some people have had good results. Some have not so look into it as an option.

Chuckinnj

On a high mileage car in this condition I would not Seafoam or engine flush the motor due to the risk of clogging up oil galleys ........ Thanks for the reply.

dtbaker

I had same engine with over 300K. If it's not using oil or making noise - why fool with it.

It was me? I'd change the oil with mobil one and a napa gold filter once, and then again before 3000 miles - only if it looks really dark. ( I run 5000 mobil 1 and napa gold every 5K)

As far as the timing belts - this is not an interference engine, so if you want, you can take off the covers and inspect the belts - if they are weak, have a water pump put in it and the labor for the belts will be included(have to remove for W/P) Doing it yourself is not too bad, but kind of tight in the bay.

Plugs can be changed with a little patience without pulling intake. I did remove my engine to do all the above, but only because rear main seal was leaking when I bought it.

This is an excellent engine and if it's running okay - change the oil and oil/air/fuel filters and perhaps drain and fill the Power Steering and Transmission fluid (& trans filter screen if it helps you sleep) THEN - LEAVE IT ALONE.

dtbaker

I forgot - I am not a fan of additives, and certainly not flushes. The risk is great of crap coming loose more rapidly than the system can handle. Regular, fluid changes generally, IMHO, clean things up over time if nothing is occluded.

I do run some premium injector cleaner spring and fall to guard against stray condensation (and I feel all warm inside spending an extra 10 bucks on my baby) Just like when my girl asks for an extra stick of gum for a long trip - ah, that warm feeling of love and caring.....)

(There is told, a rare Peruvian monkey saliva, that when added to the vital fluids of internal combustion engines, quintuples their longevity, eliminates all noise and oil consumption - and increases fuel mileage to 142.6 miles per gallon, regardless of displacement or passenger load. - I have yet to actually see this elixir, and have not yet the funds to visit Peru. My buddy's neighbor has a friend whose last fiance's uncle found a jug of it in Korea in a barn next to a brand new Jeep still in the crate, and is reportedly still driving his as new 1954 Studebaker President to this day.) I think they said he lives in Kansas.