mpc

So I purchased a 2000 Platinum Edition with 130k miles for 2900 as a second vehicle. Always liked this generation of ES. Had a few dents and paint chips (which I got fixed on the cheap, close friend owns a body shop). Interior is in above average condition.


1.On a cold start the engine will idle at 1,1000rpms and very slowly make it's way down

2.I couldn't recreate the sound, but after a cold start for the first second the engine makes a noise like a baseball card attached to the spokes of a bike or the sound of a "guiro" (best description I can come up with):

3.After it warms up or after driving around the block and restarting, it will idle around 7 or 800 RPM.

4.The car drives smooth and doesn't make any noises when accelerating on the road. Sounds alright with the hood closed. However, it sounds like a truck in my garage with the hood open. Also there seems to be a hollow sound coming from the timing belt area. Maybe a bad pulley?

Hayk

iTrader: (1)

The guiro sound is probably coming from the valves. They would tick like that if they went out of adjustment. I know hydraulic lifters produce a similar sound when they're out of oil on cold starts. I forget what the 1MZ uses.

The 'truck' sound is pretty normal. These engines are fairly loud, especially in an enclosed space. You might be right about a pulley. I would also check the alternator and the belt tension.

mpc

What about running 87 octane gas? That's what I've been using since I purchased it. Should I switch to 91?

Hayk

iTrader: (1)

I use regular gas as well, with no issues.

RXGS

iTrader: (2)

My car sounds the same, i assume its the valves but my mechanic said don't worry about it. I thought about changing the spark plugs but not sure if that would make a difference at all.

Mythotical

As valves go the 1MZ uses bucket lifters with shims. When they get loose you will notice noise when they are cold. This is normal and will not hurt anything. I do however hear the slight hum of a bad bearing. No big deal at this point but it will get worse. At this point I would consider replacing the timing components within the next 10-15k. Adjusting the valves is really not that hard, it just requires a little math and the removal of the plenum and valve covers, You just measure the clearance that the valves have now with a cold engine, pull the cams, remove the shims, measure the shims and order the shims necessary to bring the valve clearance into spec. but that can wait until you change the timing belt. Also do not rule out the A/C idler bearing and the P/S pump belt tensioner pulley. Finally with valves it is better to be a little too loose then it is to be just a little too tight. So don't sweat it. Even if you decide not to adjust them at the time of replacing the timing belt and components, it will do no harm.

mpc

Thanks for the advice!

imherenow

i have had the same noise BUT only during on certain driving conditions/roads/weather. And its intermittent. So as soon as i hear this noise i just ease off the gas pedals. I have had this noise for years now and no problem in mpg or performance. But i do change the oil regularly and last 2 oil changes i went with 10W30 regular oil. and noticed that the noise is pretty much gone.
But i dont get the noise during idling tho.