Steering Wheel jerking in both directions
#16
One last thing!!! I just realized one simple thing it could be today while driving. My belt is a little loose so when I drove through a puddle it slipped and the wheel jerked. Dude check your belt! Yes there is a spec for how tight it should be but just make sure it is firm and will only deflect about 1/4 inch when pushing firmly. Also these days serp belts take a long time to crack like they used too but it can look fine and still be shot. As they get old the "v" 's get narrower and the belt bottoms out and slips. So if it's old you should just change it.
#17
#18
Rookie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: CA
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Man this is getting scary and I am pretty comfortable taking the car apart lol. Only scary thing is that steering shaft is going to cost more than a rebuilt rack and pinion which i was convinced is bad. This shaft is 214 dollars at Napa Auto Parts.Maybe I can pull it out and try to relube/ clean with some lithium grease. WOuld you say it is advisable?
Thanks
Thanks
#19
Man this is getting scary and I am pretty comfortable taking the car apart lol. Only scary thing is that steering shaft is going to cost more than a rebuilt rack and pinion which i was convinced is bad. This shaft is 214 dollars at Napa Auto Parts.Maybe I can pull it out and try to relube/ clean with some lithium grease. WOuld you say it is advisable?
Thanks
Thanks
My mechanic fixed it for 383.34 (includes tax). Shaft assembly was 217.46. Labor 140.80
Walt
Last edited by ayonnebay; 08-16-13 at 08:49 AM.
#20
Rookie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: CA
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeh that is pretty pricey. I took of my intermediate shaft yesterday amd inspected, cleaned, lubed. There was no problem of it seizings, it is actually still in pretty good condition. I am convinced it is my rack now and will change it next week. Despite what people think its actually not that difficult on these cars. The U joint an the fluid lines can be access from the top if you remove the air box. Then you just have to loosen the tie rods, stabalizer bar and the two bolts holding the rack in.
#21
Hold on!!! Do this first!!!
Get an assistant to sit in the car with the engine running. Get a flashlight and look at the power steering pulley (close to the firewall and at the bottom). Have your assistant turn the wheels hard over until you reach the end point and hold a little pressure on the wheel. If your belt chirps and you see the pulley stop or slow dramatically then bingo! Your belt is loose or no good.
I hope this helps.
I hope this helps.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post