ES - 1st to 4th Gen (1990-2006) Forum for all 1990 - 2006 ES300 and ES330 models. ES250 topics go here as well.

Timing belt advice please

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Old 02-26-13, 10:56 AM
  #16  
PFB
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Originally Posted by hypervish
Yes, your ES is interference as well.

There is a common misconception that the 1MZ-FE with VVT-I is not interference, and well that is not true. The 99' and up ES is interference.
The controversy as to whether this model year is interference or not comes up often. Several years ago while I was interested in the subject, I had sent an Email to Gates and had asked them to confirm that their listing for my 2001es300 is correct. A few days later, I received an Email reply from Gates confirming that their listing is indeed correct, and that my engine is not an interference engine.

Unfortunately at the time I was using a different email address, so I don't have access to their response anymore.

Phil

Last edited by PFB; 02-26-13 at 11:01 AM.
Old 02-26-13, 11:16 AM
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Mattrob
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I'm thinking that this controversy will continue as it has for years until someone finds an official document from Lexus/Toyota stating the engine types that are/are not Interference and posts it here. Good stuff!
Old 02-26-13, 11:57 AM
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hypervish
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Originally Posted by Mattrob
I'm thinking that this controversy will continue as it has for years until someone finds an official document from Lexus/Toyota stating the engine types that are/are not Interference and posts it here. Good stuff!
Agreed, this controversy will not come to an end anytime soon.
Old 02-26-13, 01:31 PM
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BDSL
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Whether it is interference or non-interference, one should not wait until the timing belt breaks.

Reasons:
- dangerous to have an engine stall out randomly (lost of assisted braking, steering, etc)
- cost for tow truck
- cost for to rent a vehicle
- missing appointment, outing, getting stuck, etc....
- potentially damage the engine...yes, even a non-interference engine can get damaged
Old 02-26-13, 01:53 PM
  #20  
PFB
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Originally Posted by BDSL
Whether it is interference or non-interference, one should not wait until the timing belt breaks.

Reasons:
- dangerous to have an engine stall out randomly (lost of assisted braking, steering, etc)
- cost for tow truck
- cost for to rent a vehicle
- missing appointment, outing, getting stuck, etc....
- potentially damage the engine...yes, even a non-interference engine can get damaged
Also even in a non-interference engine, severe damage could be caused by Carbon built-up on either the Pistons, or the valves (or both), which would effectively diminish the clearance between those two components to the point where they could slam into each other causing potential damage.

Thats why, regardless of the type of engine, its always wise to change the Timing Belt based on the Manufacturer's recommendations.

Phil
Old 02-26-13, 04:03 PM
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53063
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Thanks to all who have commented! Sounds pretty divided on both whether interference or not, as well as whether I can get away without changing any parts out for a while or not... Too bad, I was hoping for something really clear cut!

Any one had a timing belt break on them? What age and mileage? Did it do any damage to the engine?

I am leaning towards pressing my luck at least for a few months and then I'll buy the kit everyone recommends from Rockauto sometime this summer and decide then on just the belts or the whole shebang. My bf says it can't be worse than my PT cruiser where he changed the timing belt and burnt exhaust valve (from a shop getting the timing wrong when they replaced the belt and me driving it that way for a year and a half) - worst designed car ever for working on according to him - dual overhead cam and no space to work on anything.

Last edited by 53063; 02-26-13 at 04:04 PM. Reason: forgot a sentence
Old 02-26-13, 05:57 PM
  #22  
MrShim78
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fundamentally its a rubber component; that timing belt. Rubber over time ages. Its a strong belt, for sure. but i'd just change it out with parts from rockauto - aisin brand. like said above, it would suck to lose a lovely low mileage engine like that just cause of the belt.
there are a few videos on youtube for the 1mzfe. the most $$$ part of the belt change is labour, so if you bf can do it, it will actually be a cheap job to do! does he want to do my belt too for a 50% discount off shop rate?
Old 02-26-13, 07:14 PM
  #23  
kakarot
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Originally Posted by 53063
Hello! New Lexus owner (though old car) and new to the forum, seeking advice please.

Just purchased a 2003 Lexus es300. 32,400 miles. Garage kept in Florida for 9 years, garage kept in Maryland for the last 6 months. Maintained as per recommended based on mileage at Lexus dealer in FL. Timing belt, drive belts, and water pump are original.

Everything is in excellent condition. However, a friend who works at a Lexus dealer in CO recommended I change the timing belt, drive belts, seals (?) and water pump based on age even though it is low mileage.

Anyone kept their timing belt over 10 years? Water pump? Are those parts known to be reliable or not? I can't get a straight answer on if an interference engine or not. If it will not do damage if it breaks at some point, I would just run it till it breaks and then repair. However, I want to keep this car a long time so if damage is likely if it breaks am I still safe to drive it for another year or so or does this really need to be done ASAP?

Lastly, boyfriend is willing to tackle the job if forum advises it has to be done. He has the skills and has done my past cars timing belts, replaced engines, etc. However, I don't want to put him through misery - some of those cars were pure h--- to work on. Is the 2003 es300 known for being particularly easy or hard to change those parts? If anyone knows a trusted mechanic in the greater Washington DC/Baltimore/Annapolis area other than a lexus dealer I'd love the info.

Thanks!
I wouldn't touch it until the the recommend TB service which is 90k.
My original TB didn't get change until 174k. I know I over do it but it work out fine.
These ES300 TB are very reliable.
Old 03-06-13, 12:21 PM
  #24  
donmcc
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Default timing belt change

I have a 94 es300. It had 125k on it when I bought it. I changed the timing belt myself. It was a nightmare getting the pully and tensioner bolts loose but the crank bolt was the real nightmare. I tried double wrenching it, hammer, 3/4 drive impact and cheater bars with no luck at breaking the bolt loose. Should you run into the same problem: my fix to break it loose was to put a 1/2' pullbar and socket with a cheater pipe installed on it. Lock the assembly against the ground, pull the plug wires to insure the engine will not start and gently bump the ignition. It will break the crank bolt loose but use extreme caution and stand clear of the tools as you do it.
I believe in preventative maintence as opposed to wait til it breaks. My advise is to remove the timing belt top cover and inspect the belt for signs of wear. If it still looks good---leave it alone.
Old 03-06-13, 01:13 PM
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canucklehe
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I don't know anyone who has broken a timing belt. most people do change them somewhere near the recommended change interval.

if you find yourself confused or being swayed by the split opinions, cost of belt only is pretty cheap, and labor is free. never mind the water pump or the tensioner or idler bearings. they can wait until the next belt replacement....if you even own the car at that point.
Old 03-06-13, 02:24 PM
  #26  
rlx101
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32000miles? just inspect it for wear, chances are you can get another 32000 miles out of it EASY.

I do not believe that rubber went bad on it already. Show me! lol
Old 03-09-13, 04:23 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by hypervish
Agreed, this controversy will not come to an end anytime soon.
Hypervish...I know you are a big proponent of the VVT 1MZFE being interference. I'm not really invested in this, I'll just change my timing belt and not think about it. I have only become curious now, as I was thinking the issue was the VVT system...then it occurred to me a timing belt snap means the cam stops, the phaser system is of no consequence, either the valve clears the piston at full lift or it doesn't.

So the question is, was the geometry changed at all for the VVT version? Piston shape, valve lift, head design, one of those would have had to change...not that I know the answer to that but it would close the case...
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