Audio Help! Put the subs in and worked fine for 5 day and now they don't work??
08-04-12, 08:12 AM
#16
Rookie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: N/A
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Okay, first of all... what's the brand of sub/tweeter that you have? Is it one of those all in one things that they sell at places like Walmart or even Best buy or did you get a box and add the parts in? Does it have an amp on it or did it have no power except from the car amp? FWIW, I would never let best buy hack into the electrical system in my car....
amp http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...dio-M589I.html
speaker wire http://www.google.com/products/catal...wAA#ps-sellers
Amp installation kit Audiopipe 300 watt amplifier installation kit
-18ft 2rca plugs to 2rca plugs
-20ft 10 awg red primary wire
-4ft 10 awg black primary wire
-16ft 18 awg on/off remote wire
-30 amp atc fuse
-10 awg fuse holder
-gold ring terminal red color
-gold ring terminal black color
-gold plated spade terminal black color
-gold plated spade terminal red color
-butt splices 2 pc
-cable ties
-3ft split loom tubing
-bunch of 30a and 20a fuses
08-04-12, 08:50 AM
#17
Did you run the stock sub wires into the hi level input on your amp? If so you likely burned up the amp inputs. Not designed for that much power, stock amp is around 60-80 watts while the hi level inputs are designed for around 5-15 watts. I think the amp might still work okay with the low level inputs but that's a pain with the stock head unit. Otherwise you'll have to replace the amp and this time tap off the rear speaker wires to feed the hi level inputs.
08-04-12, 10:00 AM
#18
Rookie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: N/A
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Did you run the stock sub wires into the hi level input on your amp? If so you likely burned up the amp inputs. Not designed for that much power, stock amp is around 60-80 watts while the hi level inputs are designed for around 5-15 watts. I think the amp might still work okay with the low level inputs but that's a pain with the stock head unit. Otherwise you'll have to replace the amp and this time tap off the rear speaker wires to feed the hi level inputs.
08-04-12, 11:11 AM
#20
Lead Lap
It sounds like you used the stock subwoofer output to feed the high-level inputs on the amp. This is OK it should work but you have some problems here I'll get to those in a minute.
The stock amp does not put out 60 watts to the sub LOL that would be a peak rating it is not a very big amp if you have taken the amp out like I have you would know. Maybe 20 watts RMS to the sub on a good day ha, At any rate the high level inputs of another amp should be fine with that.
So the problems here:
- The sub output is crossed over, it only puts out low bass signal to the stock sub, so if you take that output to your amp, you are not getting any use out of those tweeters in that box.
- The sub output is mono, which is fine for the sub speakers you added but again even if you did have full range sound to use the tweeters it is mono so you have no stereo.
-That amp likely has a "Left" and "Right" input but you only have the one set of wires from the stock sub what did you do about that? Did the amp have a mono input setting, did you split the wires? Depending on how you did this it could be a problem.
Now those are just the technical problems, those tweeters that you aren't using are pretty useless in the trunk, high frequencies don't travel like the bass does, so you should just give up on the full range signal and use this thing as a sub box, any sound coming from *behind* you from those tweeters will sound like crap anyways...unless you go to concerts and face away from the band...in which case it would sound awesome ha
IMO this is a waste, just stuffing some huge cheap subs in the trunk with the stock stereo might seem cool but a good stereo system is not made this way. I suppose if you just want some thumping and you don't really care otherwise it should be fine.
The stock amp does not put out 60 watts to the sub LOL that would be a peak rating it is not a very big amp if you have taken the amp out like I have you would know. Maybe 20 watts RMS to the sub on a good day ha, At any rate the high level inputs of another amp should be fine with that.
So the problems here:
- The sub output is crossed over, it only puts out low bass signal to the stock sub, so if you take that output to your amp, you are not getting any use out of those tweeters in that box.
- The sub output is mono, which is fine for the sub speakers you added but again even if you did have full range sound to use the tweeters it is mono so you have no stereo.
-That amp likely has a "Left" and "Right" input but you only have the one set of wires from the stock sub what did you do about that? Did the amp have a mono input setting, did you split the wires? Depending on how you did this it could be a problem.
Now those are just the technical problems, those tweeters that you aren't using are pretty useless in the trunk, high frequencies don't travel like the bass does, so you should just give up on the full range signal and use this thing as a sub box, any sound coming from *behind* you from those tweeters will sound like crap anyways...unless you go to concerts and face away from the band...in which case it would sound awesome ha
IMO this is a waste, just stuffing some huge cheap subs in the trunk with the stock stereo might seem cool but a good stereo system is not made this way. I suppose if you just want some thumping and you don't really care otherwise it should be fine.
08-04-12, 02:20 PM
#22
Rookie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: N/A
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It sounds like you used the stock subwoofer output to feed the high-level inputs on the amp. This is OK it should work but you have some problems here I'll get to those in a minute.
The stock amp does not put out 60 watts to the sub LOL that would be a peak rating it is not a very big amp if you have taken the amp out like I have you would know. Maybe 20 watts RMS to the sub on a good day ha, At any rate the high level inputs of another amp should be fine with that.
So the problems here:
- The sub output is crossed over, it only puts out low bass signal to the stock sub, so if you take that output to your amp, you are not getting any use out of those tweeters in that box.
- The sub output is mono, which is fine for the sub speakers you added but again even if you did have full range sound to use the tweeters it is mono so you have no stereo.
-That amp likely has a "Left" and "Right" input but you only have the one set of wires from the stock sub what did you do about that? Did the amp have a mono input setting, did you split the wires? Depending on how you did this it could be a problem.
Now those are just the technical problems, those tweeters that you aren't using are pretty useless in the trunk, high frequencies don't travel like the bass does, so you should just give up on the full range signal and use this thing as a sub box, any sound coming from *behind* you from those tweeters will sound like crap anyways...unless you go to concerts and face away from the band...in which case it would sound awesome ha
IMO this is a waste, just stuffing some huge cheap subs in the trunk with the stock stereo might seem cool but a good stereo system is not made this way. I suppose if you just want some thumping and you don't really care otherwise it should be fine.
The stock amp does not put out 60 watts to the sub LOL that would be a peak rating it is not a very big amp if you have taken the amp out like I have you would know. Maybe 20 watts RMS to the sub on a good day ha, At any rate the high level inputs of another amp should be fine with that.
So the problems here:
- The sub output is crossed over, it only puts out low bass signal to the stock sub, so if you take that output to your amp, you are not getting any use out of those tweeters in that box.
- The sub output is mono, which is fine for the sub speakers you added but again even if you did have full range sound to use the tweeters it is mono so you have no stereo.
-That amp likely has a "Left" and "Right" input but you only have the one set of wires from the stock sub what did you do about that? Did the amp have a mono input setting, did you split the wires? Depending on how you did this it could be a problem.
Now those are just the technical problems, those tweeters that you aren't using are pretty useless in the trunk, high frequencies don't travel like the bass does, so you should just give up on the full range signal and use this thing as a sub box, any sound coming from *behind* you from those tweeters will sound like crap anyways...unless you go to concerts and face away from the band...in which case it would sound awesome ha
IMO this is a waste, just stuffing some huge cheap subs in the trunk with the stock stereo might seem cool but a good stereo system is not made this way. I suppose if you just want some thumping and you don't really care otherwise it should be fine.
08-04-12, 03:48 PM
#25
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: single
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Since the early 90's most custom factory sound like Lexus/Nissan was Bi-Amp'd less wiring and easy repair from the Dealership. In a nut shell....go buy a New system matching all Amps. speakers ...Bla Bla Bla....and have a Pro install it for you....if you want to learn how to do it...most of these guys will do it on the side at your house and you can watch everything and learn. The prices for electronics have fallen so far...you should be able to get a great deal.....
08-04-12, 09:40 PM
#26
Rookie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: N/A
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Since the early 90's most custom factory sound like Lexus/Nissan was Bi-Amp'd less wiring and easy repair from the Dealership. In a nut shell....go buy a New system matching all Amps. speakers ...Bla Bla Bla....and have a Pro install it for you....if you want to learn how to do it...most of these guys will do it on the side at your house and you can watch everything and learn. The prices for electronics have fallen so far...you should be able to get a great deal.....
thanks, HD
08-05-12, 08:01 AM
#27
Actually, I run a Pioneer F90BT head unit through the factory amps. The sub is the stock unit and the speakers have been replaced with Boston Acoustics SE series speakers. Not a whole lot of money but it sounds great...
08-05-12, 09:55 PM
#29
start with a good component or coaxial speker with a 4ch amp. then move to the subs. this is all after the proper headunit is bought.. I did it all by myself (not impossible at all) but did spend time doing it. saved over a few hundred dollars by doingso as well.
08-06-12, 07:16 AM
#30
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: single
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I think your Sub's are OK...I would have the guys check your Amp and Subs just to be safe. A square wave will blow a speaker the same as over driving the Amp...I am curious if you want the Sub humming type ride or just a clean loud well balanced sound? As far as RCA's for the stock head unit....if you plan on keeping it? They make clips that tap into a stock system then out to new Amps and Speakers (which is what I plan on doing). As I said...prices are down and finding something in your price range should not be hard. Go on the web and snoop out best amps for the money and check out what is rated high for the money...name is not everything. A lot of Auto sound web sites with FREE info....BD