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Backyard Mechanics: Did I do this right?

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Old 04-16-14, 06:28 PM
  #46  
Hayk
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Trouble shooting the harness should be fairly simple, if we find a wiring diagram for it. You will need to test each wire for Continuity (a solid connection), with a Multimeter. If you don't have a multimeter, they're very affordable and a great piece of diagnostic equipment. I have all the wiring diagrams for the 3ES, if you need them as well.

Awaiting your update.
Old 04-16-14, 06:56 PM
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Jaden1
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Yes, I have a multimeter, it's how I tested for the correct resistance on the solenoids within the actuator. For testing the continuity of the harness, don't have to have one of the test leads at the other end of the harness, i.e. computer plug to actuator?
Old 04-16-14, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Jaden1
Yes, I have a multimeter, it's how I tested for the correct resistance on the solenoids within the actuator. For testing the continuity of the harness, don't have to have one of the test leads at the other end of the harness, i.e. computer plug to actuator?
You're correct. I'm thinking that there is more wires to the ABS system, than just from the ABS computer to the actuator. I just need to figure out which ones to check.
Old 04-18-14, 04:29 PM
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Grrrr.... the replacement computer didn't fix the problem. Same codes. So, it's definitely in the wiring. At least I now know for sure where the problem is.
Old 04-18-14, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Jaden1
Grrrr.... the replacement computer didn't fix the problem. Same codes. So, it's definitely in the wiring. At least I now know for sure where the problem is.
That's great news, now we know that we have the same problem. Are the ABS codes exactly the same as before you replaced anything?

I will try checking my wires and see if I find any useful info. Thank you for your efforts
Old 04-19-14, 09:35 AM
  #51  
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Yup, same exact codes: 21, 22, 23, & 24. I can't imagine all of these circuits having a short in them, so I'm thinking it has to be something else. At a lost on what to do next.
Old 04-19-14, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Jaden1
Yup, same exact codes: 21, 22, 23, & 24. I can't imagine all of these circuits having a short in them, so I'm thinking it has to be something else. At a lost on what to do next.
It could very well be a bad/loose connector. Plastic gets brittle, the wires don't make good contact.
Old 07-02-14, 08:29 PM
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So, after replacing the ABS computer and the ABS actuator with no luck, my alternator went out, I replaced it and all of the codes are gone. I guess it was the alternator causing the problem, but you would think the ABS computer would have thrown a low voltage code instead of 21, 22, 23, 24. Anyway, I'm happy to be rid of the problem. I remember reading somewhere else that another person had the same experience. So, make sure to check your alternator voltage before going crazy trying to trace down these ABS codes.
Old 07-03-14, 01:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Jaden1
So, after replacing the ABS computer and the ABS actuator with no luck, my alternator went out, I replaced it and all of the codes are gone. I guess it was the alternator causing the problem, but you would think the ABS computer would have thrown a low voltage code instead of 21, 22, 23, 24. Anyway, I'm happy to be rid of the problem. I remember reading somewhere else that another person had the same experience. So, make sure to check your alternator voltage before going crazy trying to trace down these ABS codes.
That is great to hear!

It'a funny you mention the alternator, because I also recently replaced my alternator and I have not seen the ABS light in a long time. I'm gonna see when was the last time I recorded any codes and compare them to the alternator date.

It's crazy how everything that seems so complicated on this car, turns out being so simple.
Old 08-02-15, 08:48 PM
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Default It was the alternator!! Thank You for this Post...

I have a 1998 ES300 and the VSC and ABS lights would go on routinely after driving for a few minutes (or less). They would go off for a bit when you cycle the ignition (turn the car off and back on), but they would always eventually come back on. I checked the VSC ABS and Codes (do a search to find out how) and they read VSC Code 43 and ABS Codes 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 28. I was at whit’s end and then I found this post. So glad I did.
To check the alternator output; I put volt meter across the battery, with the car idling. The alternator was putting out like 13.8 volts, but turn on the lights and heater fan motor and it would drop to below 12 V (11.8V). I replaced the alternator and verified that the voltage was near 14V (did drop down to 12.6V with High Beams and Fan at idle, but would go back up to 14V with ANY throttle increase) …. and the VCS and ABS lights have not been on since.

An interesting side note. My friend has an early 2000 GS430 and he found that his transmission would not go into gear, and it turned out to be a bad battery (low voltage). The dealer had even replaced the transmission for a similar problem, and then he discovered that it was a low voltage issue. Apparently, some systems in various Lexus models do not like low system voltage, so it’s a good idea to make sure that your battery and alternator are performing properly if you get some weird, unexpected behavior.

I cannot thank you guys enough for this post; it saved me a bunch of diagnosis, aggravation, and potentially a bunch of $$$.
Just wanted to share my experience in case others are having the same problem.
Old 08-03-15, 05:42 AM
  #56  
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I would. I can recall replacing one on a volvo once, and I bet that is your problem also. does any site repair the unit?
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