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Backyard Mechanics: Did I do this right?

Old 03-24-14, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Jaden1
That sucks. I doubt the computer is bad. In my experience, a bad capacitor usually causes a total failure and you wouldn't be getting codes from it. I see you changed the actuator. Did you get the same exact codes after changing the actuator?

I looked at the actuator in my car yesterday and it looks in good condition, no leaks and no noise. I did notice that the wiring harness to it had a couple of wires where the insulation was missing in sections, almost like a rat or mouse was chewing on it. I'll have to check on that. I cleared the codes and they haven't come back yet.
I initially thought the codes were different, but after letting them accumulate over time and then reading them all at once, I realized that it was the same set of numbers. The actuator was actually a lot quieter when I first swapped it, but I think it makes the same noise as the old one, now.

I did not notice any insulation problems. I did a continuity/resistance check on the wire harness that goes to the actuator and all seemed fine. At least I think it is.

The codes that I've been getting make me think that it has to do something with the Traction Control, and not the ABS portion. It would make sense, since the light seems to light up more under medium/rapid acceleration.

Having said that, I have been unable to pin point the exact conditions in which the light will come on. I have seen it happen a lot during cold weather, and I have seen it happen a lot during very hot weather, not so much in between. Not sure what that actually means.
Old 03-24-14, 08:10 PM
  #32  
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What's your ballpark percent of drive time with the lights not on? I'm hoping it's pretty high, because I'd hate to have to drive with these lights on all of the time.
Old 03-24-14, 08:22 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Jaden1
What's your ballpark percent of drive time with the lights not on? I'm hoping it's pretty high, because I'd hate to have to drive with these lights on all of the time.
It's weird. Sometimes it will happen once a day for a week, and sometimes it will not come up for months. I haven't seen it in at least a month.

You know, I just reread my whole thread after thinking about what you said regarding chewed wires. I originally stated that the codes were for Open or Short circuits, which basically means that the wires are internally broken and/or are making contact with the body. Considering that the light is sporadic, I'm thinking that the wiring harness is damaged and it triggers the fault codes due to temperature changes and vibration.

You said that your wires looked like they were chewed on. I have been noticing some kind of broken nut shells in between my battery terminals for the past year. I find myself blowing them away, and then finding the same stash a few months later. The car always sits outside our garage, and I drive it daily, so I assumed that there would be a very low chance of a creature getting comfortable under the hood. Now I gotta revisit this theory....
Old 03-25-14, 04:44 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by MrBooby
The car always sits outside our garage, and I drive it daily, so I assumed that there would be a very low chance of a creature getting comfortable under the hood. Now I gotta revisit this theory....
Mothballs work to chase critters. Just don't step on them.
Old 03-25-14, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by speedkar9
Mothballs work to chase critters. Just don't step on them.
Great suggestion, I will try that out.

Would the smell get sucked up by the HVAC and contaminate the cabin?
Old 03-26-14, 04:42 AM
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Originally Posted by MrBooby
Would the smell get sucked up by the HVAC and contaminate the cabin?
Oh, I didn't mean put them in your engine bay, I meant around your driveway where you park your car. I used that to chase stray cats, skunks and raccoons from pissing all over our driveway.

Again, don't step on and crush them, it'll get on your shoe and take days to evaporate, and gives you crazy headaches. Ask me how I know . Mothballs are carcinogenic to animals so don't breathe too much of it in.
Old 03-31-14, 07:09 PM
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Ok, spent some time this weekend trying to diagnosis my problem. I cleared the ABS codes the weekend before and the light came back on within a couple of days. Re-ran the codes and I'm still getting 21, 22, 23, & 24. All of these codes point to a bad actuator or a short in the wiring from the ABS ecu to the actuator. I followed the test procedure for the actuator and it tested out fine, so I'm perplexed as to what the problem is. The wiring all seems fine too. At this point, I'm just going to try another actuator and see what happens. Bought one on Ebay for $38 shipped. If that doesn't solve my problem, I'm going to try swapping out the ABS computer. Will report back after this upcoming weekend.
Old 04-01-14, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Jaden1
Ok, spent some time this weekend trying to diagnosis my problem. I cleared the ABS codes the weekend before and the light came back on within a couple of days. Re-ran the codes and I'm still getting 21, 22, 23, & 24. All of these codes point to a bad actuator or a short in the wiring from the ABS ecu to the actuator. I followed the test procedure for the actuator and it tested out fine, so I'm perplexed as to what the problem is. The wiring all seems fine too. At this point, I'm just going to try another actuator and see what happens. Bought one on Ebay for $38 shipped. If that doesn't solve my problem, I'm going to try swapping out the ABS computer. Will report back after this upcoming weekend.
Be careful with the brake lines, they're under some tension so it's very easy to cross thread them.

I'm thinking the issue is either in the wiring or the ABS computer.
Old 04-04-14, 06:09 PM
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Ok, got the actuator installed. Really easy job.

Mr. Bobby, how did you bleed the actuator?

Dan
Old 04-05-14, 04:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Jaden1
Ok, got the actuator installed. Really easy job.

Mr. Bobby, how did you bleed the actuator?

Dan
I bled the brakes like normal, each corner at a time with a helper in the driver seat. I didn't do anything to the actuator.
Old 04-05-14, 05:39 AM
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Ok, thanks. I had a leak at one of the fittings on the actuator, so I'm going to have to re-bleed everything this morning. Hopefully I can get all of the air out of the system.
Old 04-11-14, 05:48 PM
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Ok, it was a piece of cake bleeding the system once I got the fittings tighten properly. Been driving the car for a week and the brakes work great, but the light came back on. Slightly different combination of codes this time around. Before I was getting 21,22,23,24 all at once. Now sometimes I get 21,22 or sometimes I get 23,24. I kinda figured this was going to happen, because my original actuator tested out fine. So, I'm going to replace the ABS computer and see what happens. I hope that's the problem, because I have no idea how I'm going to replace the harness.
Old 04-11-14, 05:53 PM
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Just bought one from Ebay for $23 plus $8 shipping. Good thing these parts are available and cheap. The ABS actuator only cost me $30 plus $8 for shipping.
Old 04-11-14, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Jaden1
Just bought one from Ebay for $23 plus $8 shipping. Good thing these parts are available and cheap. The ABS actuator only cost me $30 plus $8 for shipping.
I'm interested to see if the ABS computer fixes it. Let me know. I still think the issue is in the harness, but I have yet to trouble shoot it.
Old 04-16-14, 06:18 PM
  #45  
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Ok, I just installed the replacement computer this evening. Should know by the weekend if it worked or not. Keeping my fingers crossed that it does, because I really don't know how to troubleshoot the harness.

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