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92-94 ES300 Struts (Sealed Vs Non-Sealed)

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Old 09-11-11, 07:48 PM
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Exclamation 92-94 ES300 Struts (Sealed Vs Non-Sealed)

Okay, so since I dont plan on spending $1k+ on "JDM" coilovers, I plan to build my own set-up since I have a good amount of knowledge when it comes to suspension & coilovers. Now... me being somewhat new to Lexus & its ins & outs I have a few questions. The Hondas & Nissans that I am used to working with are just basic struts. Google failed to answer my question in a way that I felt was valid.

~How do I know if my OEM struts are SEALED or NON-SEALED?
~Are there any major differences or benefits/downsides?
~If there is no big difference, then why does it matter?
~If I have a car with SEALED struts, would I be able to used NON-SEALED struts without causing any damage or needing any modifications (& vice-versa)?

I just dont wanna do something that may set off a sensor or end up farking up my car in the long run. Any help or insight will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, guys.
Old 09-11-11, 08:05 PM
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LeX2K
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A sealed strut vs. a non-sealed unit only means that the strut cartridge itself can either be removed from the strut housing and replaced, or not. There is a large nut on the serviceable versions, the non-service types a crimp cap is used. That's the only difference.
Old 09-11-11, 08:10 PM
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THATS IT?!? Okay cool. I guess I can continue as planned. Updates will be added to my build thread.
Old 09-11-11, 08:11 PM
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And thank you, kind sir.
Old 09-11-11, 08:31 PM
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LeX2K
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Yea that's it lol. Some people actually replace only the cartridge I have no idea why, you end up with an old, dirty, rusty housing with a new part in it. There is also oil in there for cooling, so you have to deal with that as well. Why bother?
Old 09-11-11, 09:09 PM
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EEngineer
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what are you trying to do really?
i mean, there's not much "building" involved when it comes to suspension...
now with your question answered what are you trying to do?
Old 09-12-11, 12:20 AM
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Not "building" as in "from scratch" but piecing together my own coilover set up that will not only look legit but perform legit. I'm crunching numbers for springrates, damper, bound, and rebound so that I can have a more affordable counterpart to spending $1k+ on "JDM" crap.
Old 09-12-11, 01:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Lexus2000
Yea that's it lol. Some people actually replace only the cartridge I have no idea why, you end up with an old, dirty, rusty housing with a new part in it. There is also oil in there for cooling, so you have to deal with that as well. Why bother?
Now that I better understand what the difference is, I began to think this exact same thing. Why put a new part into an older, crustier casing/shell? Thank you for your help, dude!
Old 09-12-11, 08:13 AM
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EEngineer
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Originally Posted by LaidBack
Not "building" as in "from scratch" but piecing together my own coilover set up that will not only look legit but perform legit. I'm crunching numbers for springrates, damper, bound, and rebound so that I can have a more affordable counterpart to spending $1k+ on "JDM" crap.
i'm curious how you are gonna do that....
and what do you consider as "JDM" crap?
Old 09-12-11, 09:50 PM
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There once was a time when "JDM" actually meant something. Then it became a major trend. Hell, all you have to do is type "JDM" into a search tab on google or even eBay, and look at all the OVER-PRICED crap that gets labeled as "JDM". I'm over it. I'd rather build FUNCTION OVER FORM.
Old 09-13-11, 08:47 AM
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EEngineer
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u still haven't really answered my question.
Old 09-13-11, 02:22 PM
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Thats fine. Just watch.
Old 09-13-11, 02:39 PM
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EEngineer
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whatever you do, just don't get those cheap coilover sleeves.
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