Transmission Issues..I think
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Transmission Issues..I think
I have a 99 ES300. A few days ago, when I start my car I noticed a whining sound coming from the engine compartment that went away after a few seconds. Next day, same sound but lasted longer. Yesterday, same thing when my wife started the car. Each time, the car drove fine except for yesterday. My wife said when she got off the highway, the car would rev but she wasn't able to go more than 5 miles per hour. She made it to work safely. After her shift, she drove the car home and ran fine until, again, she got off the highway. Same thing happened.
Last night, I was on my way to the gas station and the car was in gear driving normally until I came to a stop. Then it wouldn't go no more than 5 miles per hour. I was able to make it to the gas station when all of a sudden the car would not move at all. I let the car sit for about 5 minutes and tried to head back home. When I started the car I noticed the whining noise was back and the car would drive as long a the whining sound was present. On the way home, the whining went away and the car would not move even if it was already in gear.
I had to put the car in neutral (while coasting or at the stoplight), start the car (whining sound would come come back for a minute or so), drive a little farther, whining stops, car won't move...repeat until I got home (only a couple miles away and no traffic on the road).
Idisconnected the red cable from the battery all night, reconnected it today and tried it again. Whining noise came and went in a matter of a few seconds, car won't move at all... No reverse or drive in any gear, but the RPMs would drop when the transmission is in gear but won't move. Pretty long post, but can someone help me please?
Last night, I was on my way to the gas station and the car was in gear driving normally until I came to a stop. Then it wouldn't go no more than 5 miles per hour. I was able to make it to the gas station when all of a sudden the car would not move at all. I let the car sit for about 5 minutes and tried to head back home. When I started the car I noticed the whining noise was back and the car would drive as long a the whining sound was present. On the way home, the whining went away and the car would not move even if it was already in gear.
I had to put the car in neutral (while coasting or at the stoplight), start the car (whining sound would come come back for a minute or so), drive a little farther, whining stops, car won't move...repeat until I got home (only a couple miles away and no traffic on the road).
Idisconnected the red cable from the battery all night, reconnected it today and tried it again. Whining noise came and went in a matter of a few seconds, car won't move at all... No reverse or drive in any gear, but the RPMs would drop when the transmission is in gear but won't move. Pretty long post, but can someone help me please?
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hmm well i have a 1994 Lexus Es300 with 226k miles on and i had to replace my transmission but when it went i had a similar problem but your sounds less severe,
i had no whining noise,Does it sound like a belt is squeaking when you hear that noise?
it could possibly be a worn out belt but it sounds like there is something wrong with your transmission...Have you had the transmission fluid changed recently? check the fluid im pretty sure Lexus transmission fluid runs dark brown you should bring it to a good trustworthy mechanic ask him to maybe try automatic transmission conditioner or diagnose the problem...let me know and if you had the transmission fluid changed recently make sure it was changed right...its not like changing oil were u flush and replace theres a certain ratio of old fluid and new fluid or else your transmission wont know what to do and just not go anywhere
i had no whining noise,Does it sound like a belt is squeaking when you hear that noise?
it could possibly be a worn out belt but it sounds like there is something wrong with your transmission...Have you had the transmission fluid changed recently? check the fluid im pretty sure Lexus transmission fluid runs dark brown you should bring it to a good trustworthy mechanic ask him to maybe try automatic transmission conditioner or diagnose the problem...let me know and if you had the transmission fluid changed recently make sure it was changed right...its not like changing oil were u flush and replace theres a certain ratio of old fluid and new fluid or else your transmission wont know what to do and just not go anywhere
#3
Did you check the fluid level? -- how many miles? --- did you do anything to the transmission recently?
The rule with transmissions is at the first sign of any abnormal behavior - you must stop driving the car and check the fluid ..... immediately!! If the fluid is correct then you should get it to a transmission shop. Nothing good comes from driving a transmission that is acting up ---- you can destroy them very quickly.
It sounds like the pump was sucking air -- this could be from low fluid or an internal leak. The pressure does not build up and the clutches can not engage correctly. The clutches slip -- overheat -- and ....... not good.
The other reason to have it looked at quickly --- you may get away with a partial rebuilt. What transmission is in the car? look on the driver door --should have a AT and a number?
The rule with transmissions is at the first sign of any abnormal behavior - you must stop driving the car and check the fluid ..... immediately!! If the fluid is correct then you should get it to a transmission shop. Nothing good comes from driving a transmission that is acting up ---- you can destroy them very quickly.
It sounds like the pump was sucking air -- this could be from low fluid or an internal leak. The pressure does not build up and the clutches can not engage correctly. The clutches slip -- overheat -- and ....... not good.
The other reason to have it looked at quickly --- you may get away with a partial rebuilt. What transmission is in the car? look on the driver door --should have a AT and a number?
#4
Have to agree, first thing you need to do is check the fluid for level and condition. Nothing else to do till that's done, other then not drive the car. As for trans, for that year I believe it should be a U140E. Normally a trouble free unit but if it's been neglected anything is possible.
#5
The oldest car we have is a 2000 es300. That year can have two different transmissions -- I believe they did this for a couple of years. The number is on the door of mine.
About 18 months ago we started to get a odd downshift at 3-2 --- it was a bit rough if you coasted down. I took it in and they said that it could be a couple of things -- but it would have to be taken apart. With over 200k on it -- I figured I would live with it. Well, one day at a light it just did not move -- that was at 212k. Thankfully, nothing blew up and it just needed a simple rebuild and new solenoids (the original shift problem) -- plus a new drive shaft that refused to come loose. $1700.00 later -- the car now almost 230k on it currently. Everything still works.
About 18 months ago we started to get a odd downshift at 3-2 --- it was a bit rough if you coasted down. I took it in and they said that it could be a couple of things -- but it would have to be taken apart. With over 200k on it -- I figured I would live with it. Well, one day at a light it just did not move -- that was at 212k. Thankfully, nothing blew up and it just needed a simple rebuild and new solenoids (the original shift problem) -- plus a new drive shaft that refused to come loose. $1700.00 later -- the car now almost 230k on it currently. Everything still works.
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Well I found out what it is. The whining I'm hearing is the pump trying to build up pressure. The bad news, I need another transmission. What are my options, most economical first?
Thanks.
Thanks.
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Well I found out what it is. The whining I'm hearing is the pump trying to build up pressure. The bad news, I need another transmission. What are my options, most economical first?
Thanks.
Thanks.
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#8
Most economical would be to replace the pump. Secondly would be a used unit from a recycler. Third, rebuild the unit. Fourth buy a reman unit. If the pump is the issue then replace the pump...
#9
First ........ find out what transmission is in it.
Mine had the U140E -- some transmission shops do not work on them. They are evidently somewhat tricky -- others say they have problems with them dripping fluid after a rebuild
My 2000 is in fantastic condition but with north of 200k ..........has minimal value. I was first looking at a high end rebuild -- I priced a Jasper unit ........ not rational as it would have been 4k to fix it. The cost of the used units are nuts -- I don't get it ......... some wanted 2k for a used transmission and then you have to install it!
I did not feel very comfortable at the few places that I first went to -- one would not even look at it saying when they go they normally destroy themselves? The other would not give me a worst case?
Thorough a very strange twist of fate I was able to find the shop that the local lexus dealer sends the old ones to be fixed -- most dealers do not rebuild transmissions they just put in new ones from the factory.
He gave me a range from about $1200 (unlikely) to $2100 (rarely) - depending on the parts needed. He did say it could have destroyed itself -- but that it was rare for it to not be rebuildable. Mine was fixed for $1700.00.
Once you spend the money to take it out and open it up some parts are logically replaced. Its important to remember that the pump may be fine -- an internal leak may be causing the pressure not to build -- or it could be a seal on the pump or a crack in the pump -- you just can't tell.
Mine had the U140E -- some transmission shops do not work on them. They are evidently somewhat tricky -- others say they have problems with them dripping fluid after a rebuild
My 2000 is in fantastic condition but with north of 200k ..........has minimal value. I was first looking at a high end rebuild -- I priced a Jasper unit ........ not rational as it would have been 4k to fix it. The cost of the used units are nuts -- I don't get it ......... some wanted 2k for a used transmission and then you have to install it!
I did not feel very comfortable at the few places that I first went to -- one would not even look at it saying when they go they normally destroy themselves? The other would not give me a worst case?
Thorough a very strange twist of fate I was able to find the shop that the local lexus dealer sends the old ones to be fixed -- most dealers do not rebuild transmissions they just put in new ones from the factory.
He gave me a range from about $1200 (unlikely) to $2100 (rarely) - depending on the parts needed. He did say it could have destroyed itself -- but that it was rare for it to not be rebuildable. Mine was fixed for $1700.00.
Once you spend the money to take it out and open it up some parts are logically replaced. Its important to remember that the pump may be fine -- an internal leak may be causing the pressure not to build -- or it could be a seal on the pump or a crack in the pump -- you just can't tell.
#10
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Agree with yeldogt and this also comes from some experience I had back in Dec. 2007 that some of you may remember with my own tranny, a similar U140F (for AWD) in my RX300. Pump needed to be replaced and I also had a cracked flywheel. There wasn't really anything wrong with the rest of the tranny after a thorough check and we even examined the inside of the torque converter (was much cheaper to get all of this done south of the border).
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It's the U140E. I'm thinking of replacing the unit myself. I've pulled motors before from 70's and 80's GM cars but never from a foreign car. Tools shouldn't be an issue. How much should a transmission from a salvage yard run, warranty included?
Thanks for all of your help.
Thanks for all of your help.
#12
I guess you did not read my post. You are going to find that the used units are too expensive -- and no one is going to give you any kind of a warranty beyond saying it will work when you install it.
Do yourself a favor and find someone to fix the one you have -- this is not a transmission that you are going to pick-up for $350.00 with 35k on it and pop it in Saturday morning.
Do yourself a favor and find someone to fix the one you have -- this is not a transmission that you are going to pick-up for $350.00 with 35k on it and pop it in Saturday morning.
#14
Unfortunity - you need to find the exact unit. The year can also matter as the electronics must match up. It must be for an ES.
It took me a few weeks to figure out what i wanted to do. In the end the best and most economical thing for me to do was to have a local shop that was equiped to rebuild the box .......do it.
I was not about to install a used transmission with the miles most of them had and especially the prices people wanted for them.
It took me a few weeks to figure out what i wanted to do. In the end the best and most economical thing for me to do was to have a local shop that was equiped to rebuild the box .......do it.
I was not about to install a used transmission with the miles most of them had and especially the prices people wanted for them.
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Thanks for the quick response. so if I remove the transmission myself and install, the $1700 is for the rebuild alone? If so, wow! I'm used to getting high performance "bullet proof" hotrod transmissions built for that much.