'99 ES300 eating batteries and alternators
08-31-11, 12:34 PM
#31
So now that the economy is tough, mechanics get to screw people and we shouldn't call them on it? Shouldn't he be upset with the repair shops that threw a bunch of worthless repairs and parta at his car that didn't work? We're not smearing a particular shop here, and I doubt the OP is lying about his experience. Again, if the shop made an honest mistake, they can show their honesty by giving a full refund for all the worthless repairs they made.
Not all car repairs get to be gravy jobs like brakes, sometimes you have difficult problems to solve. What I have an issue with is a shop saying they found the problem, and it's the battery/alternator/ switch etc. (fill in the blank) over and over without the actual problem being addressed. And no, I don't buy for a minute that these were all contributing factors. After the repairs were made, they could have easily tested the system and see if that stopped the draw of current or not. They were just being lazy and guessing.
That may be how some shops operated, but they're not going to do it on my dime, and I wouldn't pay for a single repair. If that means some shops go out of business, oh well, they deserve it. The honest shops I go to, it's hard to get an appointment they're so busy.
Not all mechanics are crooks, but my experience is many will try to take advantage of you if you don't know any better. The OP should cancel payment on his credit card (if he still can) and let them explain themselves. In the meantime he should ask around and find a shop that's actually going to diagnose the problem.
Not all car repairs get to be gravy jobs like brakes, sometimes you have difficult problems to solve. What I have an issue with is a shop saying they found the problem, and it's the battery/alternator/ switch etc. (fill in the blank) over and over without the actual problem being addressed. And no, I don't buy for a minute that these were all contributing factors. After the repairs were made, they could have easily tested the system and see if that stopped the draw of current or not. They were just being lazy and guessing.
That may be how some shops operated, but they're not going to do it on my dime, and I wouldn't pay for a single repair. If that means some shops go out of business, oh well, they deserve it. The honest shops I go to, it's hard to get an appointment they're so busy.
Not all mechanics are crooks, but my experience is many will try to take advantage of you if you don't know any better. The OP should cancel payment on his credit card (if he still can) and let them explain themselves. In the meantime he should ask around and find a shop that's actually going to diagnose the problem.
I'm pretty much done with this thread. It sounds to me like the OP has an intermittent draw and it's going to be a bear to find. Best of luck to him.
10-12-11, 05:43 PM
#32
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So, this most recent time that I took the car in they have kept it for close to 7 weeks. Now they call and say that they want to replace the alternator again. Unbelievable.
10-12-11, 07:11 PM
#33
Did tghey explain why they want to replace it again? Did they show you any test print outs from a battery tester? If they are going to replace it free of charge then let them.
07-25-20, 09:03 AM
#35
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Just thought I would post on here about an ongoing problem with my '99 ES and see if anyone had any ideas. The problem started with a bad battery. The dealer replaced it, but the new battery only lasted a few months. The service advisor said it was probably just bad from the factory and he replaced it again. This happened a couple more times, with each battery lasting just a few months, and each time the service advisor denied that a problem with the car was causing it. Then, after moving, another lexus dealership replaced the alternator, as it tested bad. After having another battery go bad after the alternator was replaced, they finally did more thorough diagnostics and found out that the button that stores the driver's seat position was stuck, creating a parasitic draw. This seemed to solve the problem, and the car worked fine for about a year. Then, a little over a month ago, the car was getting to the point that it would barely start, and the alternator tested bad again. Because I live far from the Lexus dealer, and I needed the car functional immediately, I took the car to NTB, where they replaced the alternator, and informed me that the battery was shot and needed replacing, which I did. After about a month, the car was barely starting again, and I took it back to NTB and they tested the battery and found it was bad and replaced it. This weekend, I took the car back to the dealer to see if they could find any problems with the electrical system that would explain the problems I have been having, and although the starter tested out in the marginal range, they could find no other problems. Has this kind of problem happened to anyone else here? Is there anything you would suggest I have them look at that could be leading to this problem? The car is perfect otherwise, so I hate to have to give it up and spend money on a new one, but I can't keep getting stranded and replacing electrical components. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
08-10-20, 07:25 AM
#37
It's very rare to get a string of bad batteries ... getting a string of bad alternators from the typical auto parts store is not. Don't waste your time with cheap auto part store alternators ... get a real Denso unit that has been rebuilt by Denso ,,,in a Denso box.
A borderline alternator will kill a battery over time ..... but, most times that the easy thing for the service department to do .. replace the battery,
Obviously -- a strange item like a stuck switch or some other strange item stuck on is alway possible and more so when a 20+ year old car .... but this is easy to check.
An easy way to check the alternator -- at night ..shine the lights onto a wall and start turning things on .. rear defog and wipers .. AC ... the lights should not dim as you do this. If they do the alternator is weak and should be replaced.
Also -- if it's a start problem .. the starter solenoid is a common failure and has a very cheap and easy fix. Google it and get the parts -- $30 and one hour and it's fixed
A borderline alternator will kill a battery over time ..... but, most times that the easy thing for the service department to do .. replace the battery,
Obviously -- a strange item like a stuck switch or some other strange item stuck on is alway possible and more so when a 20+ year old car .... but this is easy to check.
An easy way to check the alternator -- at night ..shine the lights onto a wall and start turning things on .. rear defog and wipers .. AC ... the lights should not dim as you do this. If they do the alternator is weak and should be replaced.
Also -- if it's a start problem .. the starter solenoid is a common failure and has a very cheap and easy fix. Google it and get the parts -- $30 and one hour and it's fixed
06-20-22, 01:45 PM
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I have had the EXACT same issue since I bought the car in 2017. Have gone thru the same issues on battery #3 alternator replaced between 1 and 2. Finally selling the car I love because of it.
Just thought I would post on here about an ongoing problem with my '99 ES and see if anyone had any ideas. The problem started with a bad battery. The dealer replaced it, but the new battery only lasted a few months. The service advisor said it was probably just bad from the factory and he replaced it again. This happened a couple more times, with each battery lasting just a few months, and each time the service advisor denied that a problem with the car was causing it. Then, after moving, another lexus dealership replaced the alternator, as it tested bad. After having another battery go bad after the alternator was replaced, they finally did more thorough diagnostics and found out that the button that stores the driver's seat position was stuck, creating a parasitic draw. This seemed to solve the problem, and the car worked fine for about a year. Then, a little over a month ago, the car was getting to the point that it would barely start, and the alternator tested bad again. Because I live far from the Lexus dealer, and I needed the car functional immediately, I took the car to NTB, where they replaced the alternator, and informed me that the battery was shot and needed replacing, which I did. After about a month, the car was barely starting again, and I took it back to NTB and they tested the battery and found it was bad and replaced it. This weekend, I took the car back to the dealer to see if they could find any problems with the electrical system that would explain the problems I have been having, and although the starter tested out in the marginal range, they could find no other problems. Has this kind of problem happened to anyone else here? Is there anything you would suggest I have them look at that could be leading to this problem? The car is perfect otherwise, so I hate to have to give it up and spend money on a new one, but I can't keep getting stranded and replacing electrical components. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
06-20-22, 02:47 PM
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I have had the EXACT same issue
I have had the same year and make with EXACT same issue since I bought the car in 2017. Have gone thru the same issues on battery #3 alternator replaced between 1 and 2. Finally selling the car I love because of it.
Just thought I would post on here about an ongoing problem with my '99 ES and see if anyone had any ideas. The problem started with a bad battery. The dealer replaced it, but the new battery only lasted a few months. The service advisor said it was probably just bad from the factory and he replaced it again. This happened a couple more times, with each battery lasting just a few months, and each time the service advisor denied that a problem with the car was causing it. Then, after moving, another lexus dealership replaced the alternator, as it tested bad. After having another battery go bad after the alternator was replaced, they finally did more thorough diagnostics and found out that the button that stores the driver's seat position was stuck, creating a parasitic draw. This seemed to solve the problem, and the car worked fine for about a year. Then, a little over a month ago, the car was getting to the point that it would barely start, and the alternator tested bad again. Because I live far from the Lexus dealer, and I needed the car functional immediately, I took the car to NTB, where they replaced the alternator, and informed me that the battery was shot and needed replacing, which I did. After about a month, the car was barely starting again, and I took it back to NTB and they tested the battery and found it was bad and replaced it. This weekend, I took the car back to the dealer to see if they could find any problems with the electrical system that would explain the problems I have been having, and although the starter tested out in the marginal range, they could find no other problems. Has this kind of problem happened to anyone else here? Is there anything you would suggest I have them look at that could be leading to this problem? The car is perfect otherwise, so I hate to have to give it up and spend money on a new one, but I can't keep getting stranded and replacing electrical components. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
06-20-22, 10:30 PM
#40
Pole Position
What parts did you use for the repair?
What's the year and mileage on your car?
What was done to the car prior when the issue started?
If the issue only manifests itself while the car is stationary, you likely have Parasitic Draw, here is a post on how to check for it.
If that's good, get a device like the one linked below and hook it to one of the battery wires, see if there is an excessive current flowing while the engine is on, off and when the key is out of ignition. After that, leave it clamped and log the data from it, see if there is anything out of place going on over prolonged period of time and in different scenarios, if so, try to correlate it with any actions you did while the data was being logged. If nothing else, it will give you an understanding of whether it is a parasitic draw, issue with alternator, or something is up with the wiring. Until there is more information to go from, well, there is not much I can help with.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
06-21-22, 12:28 AM
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1999 ES300. Battery has been replaced 4xs OEM. Between 2nd and 3rd battery replacement the alternator was replaced, OEM. Alternator is good, battery tests bad. Yes there is a draw. Have used my meter. Could not find the draw. Bought in 2017, with 104k. The battery has had the same issue since I bought it. My radio which would stop working I was at a stop sign at low rpms and the car would start to die will no longer work at all. Charging my telephone via the center console 12 v outlet under the armrest was always asking for trouble. I was able to use it on a long trip recently. It stopped working a week later. NO fuses blown in either box Maintained, recent replacement of AC belt. Oil change. Issues were already present. NO codes. Current miles 171k. Have every service record on the car in the original leather bound owners manual. I am the second owner. Engine is strong enough for at least 100k more miles, in fact the entire engine compartment components are shockingly clean. The 2018 Corolla that shares it's driveway looks about the same There are 5 wiring harness in the vehicle. I know it has to be in the console, or at least that is what I have always thought. I have driven it for long enough, and always carry a handy 6" jump starter power bar, (best $39 I ever spent on Amazon), that it is just something I deal with and prepare for automatically. That is until the battery, which I do not care what battery you install their is a finite number of times you can drain it, will no longer charge. I am at that point now. I had Covid and well the battery reached it's end of life by being completely drained by my car, the vampire. Now it's jump it, make sure every possible thing is turned off... That means you are taking your chances with night driving and headlights, and do not turn it off except to get gas unless you have to. Always charge your jumpstarter. Yes it is running off the alternator. I can turn it off then back on a short while later, but I the meter shows it discharges rapidly. The following day, I can sometimes still unlock the doors with the remote but only once. That is when this whole situation is too much. When I look at it logically after reading all the posts I think I was so stuck on where I thought the problem was that I never checked the ignition or starter. Now I am very curious to see if that was the problem all this time. Although, this puzzle has made me think I figured it out too many times to get too excited. Also, just a little info. I am not a mechanic, I am a 54 y/o woman with 3 grown children. I am enjoying being able to take care of things on my own. I do not need a man, it really makes it great when you don't date men based on their mechanical skills. Thanks so much for the help. I bought a car on Saturday. I was troubled thinking about selling Alexa. The day I drove in my apartment complex with my new car my young neighbor asked to buy her. He wants her the way she is. So I can still know how she is doing and we are going to work on her together. He is as excited to own het as I was. I guess their are some kids in their 20s that still know what it is to have class. 😘
06-22-22, 11:01 AM
#42
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STOP. I went through mechanics and alternators figuring this out. My last mechanic on this issue said we were just buying crappy alternators. He bought nipondenso and I never had another issue.
06-27-22, 06:37 PM
#43
Pole Position
Sorry for the delay in response, somehow I only received notification about this post today.. Do you still own the car?
Here is another thread about alternator failing with no lights, which sounds similar to your case.
You wrote that you used OEM batteries and an OEM alternator, did you get those straight from the dealership? If you got them online, there is a good chance you got counterfeit components, which could be the cause of your issues.
If the issue is present when the car is started, there is definitely something up with the charging system. Use the tool linked above to check the Voltage and Current draw while the car is started, see if the draw is too high or the voltage is steadily dropping instead of staying at about 14V, make sure to not use a regular household multimeter to measure current, there is a good chance to fry the tool by exceeding its limits.
If the current is too high, set a Multimeter to Millivolts and check the voltage across each fuse in the car, here you can find more details about it, as well as a chart that correlates the voltage across the fuse with the current in that circuit. If you spot a fuse with excessive current draw, pull it out and see if it will help, if so, you will have to diagnose the system to which the fuse belongs.
If the current looks normal, but the voltage keeps decreasing steadily as you drive, it probably means that the alternator can't provide enough power to maintain the system, which could be caused by a number of things. First, check that when the Engine is running and everything else is Off, the battery voltage is at or above 13V, that will verify that the alternator itself and its controls are working, if that's good, any car parts store should be able to test your alternator for free.
If the voltage is below 13V when the car is running, here is a thread that describes the steps to diagnose the no charge condition. In short, turn off the car, then disconnect the pigtail going to the alternator (not the bolted terminal) and use a Test Light to check the wiring. With clip up, Pin 1 is the wire for a Light Bulb on the Instrument Cluster, Grounding it through a test light should case the Battery light to come on. Pin 2 is the Main 12V, the power should be present there at all times. Pin 3 is the Ignition Signal, 12V should only be present there when the key is turned to the ON position. If any of those signals are missing, there is an issue with the wiring. If that won't help, refer to the thread linked above to see how to check for Voltage Drop across B+ cable and Ground, which turned out to be the problem there.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
The battery has had the same issue since I bought it. My radio which would stop working I was at a stop sign at low rpms and the car would start to die will no longer work at all. Charging my telephone via the center console 12 v outlet under the armrest was always asking for trouble.
You wrote that you used OEM batteries and an OEM alternator, did you get those straight from the dealership? If you got them online, there is a good chance you got counterfeit components, which could be the cause of your issues.
If the issue is present when the car is started, there is definitely something up with the charging system. Use the tool linked above to check the Voltage and Current draw while the car is started, see if the draw is too high or the voltage is steadily dropping instead of staying at about 14V, make sure to not use a regular household multimeter to measure current, there is a good chance to fry the tool by exceeding its limits.
If the current is too high, set a Multimeter to Millivolts and check the voltage across each fuse in the car, here you can find more details about it, as well as a chart that correlates the voltage across the fuse with the current in that circuit. If you spot a fuse with excessive current draw, pull it out and see if it will help, if so, you will have to diagnose the system to which the fuse belongs.
If the current looks normal, but the voltage keeps decreasing steadily as you drive, it probably means that the alternator can't provide enough power to maintain the system, which could be caused by a number of things. First, check that when the Engine is running and everything else is Off, the battery voltage is at or above 13V, that will verify that the alternator itself and its controls are working, if that's good, any car parts store should be able to test your alternator for free.
If the voltage is below 13V when the car is running, here is a thread that describes the steps to diagnose the no charge condition. In short, turn off the car, then disconnect the pigtail going to the alternator (not the bolted terminal) and use a Test Light to check the wiring. With clip up, Pin 1 is the wire for a Light Bulb on the Instrument Cluster, Grounding it through a test light should case the Battery light to come on. Pin 2 is the Main 12V, the power should be present there at all times. Pin 3 is the Ignition Signal, 12V should only be present there when the key is turned to the ON position. If any of those signals are missing, there is an issue with the wiring. If that won't help, refer to the thread linked above to see how to check for Voltage Drop across B+ cable and Ground, which turned out to be the problem there.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
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